Scream'n 318 ?

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You'll probably be wanting a set of my special decompression low compression Pistons. The ones with the flapper valve on the bottom side of the flat top. That special flapper valve allows all the compression into the crankcase so that you have plenty of blow by in case you're in a heavily mosquito infested area.
 
Yep. I like the roller cam factory LA block. Lots of potential.
Balanced bottom end. 273 or early 318 steel crank and the early 273/318 rods. They are the lightest.
 
What I wouldn't do is use a hydraulic anything camshaft.
What I would do is take apart the stock hydraulic roller lifters and machine some solid "guts" out of aluminum and reinstall the pushrod seats and assemble them with quality snap rings making them into solid rollers. J.Rob
 
I believe the key to high revving engines is a well balanced bottom end. And good air flow of course lol
The real key is a solid foundation for sure, but that applies to any build. Grocery getter, mileage master, tow truck, etc.... Getting power out of any engine is a balanced package. EZ air in, EZ air out = EZ’er power to be made. The heads, intake and carb should work with the cam (& the cars weight, trans and gear) and the exhaust should be given a little thought.

Everything adds up.
 
I would absolutely love to, but the problem is I would have to have the funds to do so lol and this particular teen is together with ported Indy/RHS heads and a smaller camshaft.
Not as much fun as the W5's but still very respectable just the same.
 
I would absolutely love to, but the problem is I would have to have the funds to do so lol and this particular teen is together with ported Indy/RHS heads and a smaller camshaft.
Sell off the inferior, roll money over, ....
:lol:
 
I hope it makes over 400 and think it will, but we shall see with track numbers when the car is finished.
It should do that or better. 400 out of a teen is fairly easy or so I have read. Probably closer to 450. How big of a cam you running?
 
im assuming your using the speed master heads on this? gonna need to spin a 318 harder than 7200 to get the most from them heads!! thats gonna need a solid roller a hyd roller ant gonna like the rrrr's
Actually, wasn't really thinking the Speedmaster heads, they are on my 360. I have a nice set of 360 heads I can work with.......
 
I was hopin youd at least use a set of speedmaster heads. factory iron i guess would be okay, what castings are you thinking to use? solid roller would be totally cool. I have some factory hydraulic roller lifters im gonna take apart, see if i cant figure out how to make them solid like was suggested. now that'd be really cool.
 
What point do you think it will become an issue with decent rotating parts or are you concerned about the oiling system?


Oiling and valve train issues.

RAMM already posted about using a hydraulic roller. I wouldn’t do it either. I hear about guys turning those junk lifters 7500 plus but I’ve never seen it done, or done it myself. If you use the thickest, most gooey oil you can find, get around 180 on the seat and 500ish (or more if you can) over the nose you might get it to 7000 before you start seeing issues with valve control. Maybe. And that was using some lightweight, hollow stem custom built 5/16 stem valves.

By the time you do all that, and open up the bearing clearances for that thick oil you could just use solid rollers on a hydraulic lobe and be far better off.
 
Problem with solid rollers is the price. Wow. If the factory rollers can be turned into solid, then that would be great.
 
Should I move forward with this build, which I most likely will, there are no specific goals. When it's built, it will shift where it likes to be shifted (6200 rpms fine, 7200 rpms fine). Whatever power it makes it will make.

This in not a "claim to fame three8tain". Nor will it re-write the history books.
 
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