Seeking 318 rebuild advice

[70runner]

Finally getting around to restoring my daughters 70 Sport Satellite with 318/904. Yea, I know a B, but I'm looking for advice on rebuilding the 318. All my experience is with big blocks, I've assembled several so know my way around an engine, just not a SB.

The engine is a 68 318 (Sep67 casting I believe) with what looks to be OE manifolds, 2951916 left exhaust for example, with electronic ignition and electronic fuel pump (which I plan to replace with mechanical pump). Looking to do a pretty much stock rebuild, something dependable for the daughter, perhaps add a 4 barrel and TTI dual exhaust to spice things up a bit.

What approach/components would you guys suggest?

 

[ragtopfury]

Get a re-pro cam from Mopar Performance for a stock 340 and a 600cfm eddie carb. 5.9 Durango/Dakota manifolds, or even the mopar shorty 5.9 headers. Jake's is quite torquey and responsive in his 65.....

 

[Coronet 500]

If you are going down to bare block I always run a long 9/32" drill through the main bearing saddle to right (passenger) side lifter oil galley. I have found this oil hole to the crankshaft to not be fully drilled and "stepped".

A 340 4 speed cam is good, I am using a Comp Cam XE 256 H and is a great street cam for a mild build.

 

[krazykuda]

You can start your rebuild with a Mancini Racing "refresh kit".

Kit A comes with main & rod bearings, rings, and complete gasket kit for $200:

http://www.manciniracing.com/sealedpowerkit.html


They have other kits with more and more parts, depending on how far you are going to go:

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html


I recommend this timing chain, the Edelbrock true roller double roller. It's one step above the stock 340 double roller timing chain and will last much longer than the original 318 timing chain. I've run them 250,000 miles with no problem.:

http://www.manciniracing.com/edelbrock4.html


Here's a thread on how the front of the small block goes together, it's good to read to familiarize yourself with before tearing it down:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=287231


Here's how to ID your block:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=285021


Here's how to check your compression, if you want to go that far.:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278215


Here's a nice affordable holley 600 vacuum secondary, square bore with electric choke that's good for a daily driver:

http://www.manciniracing.com/homo41noflca.html

Here's a good intake to go with that carb:

https://www.holley.com/products/intakes/dual_plane_manifolds/parts/8022

 

[C130 Chief]

OK, at the risk of sounding like a total broken record, somebody has to ask... Why not start with a 5.9 (or 5.2) Magnum if you are doing a total engine rebuild.

I must commend your resistance to turning this car into a 440+6 Road Runner clone. I know I wouldn't be able to resist the temptation.

 

[txstang84]

I'm going to wager a guess because he already has the 318...the magnum--even the core--adds cost, and does require some different parts. I did the magnum swap because I acquired the long block for free from a friend...but I still had to buy parts and deal with some frustrations.

That being said, I can't disagree with your suggestion...lord knows those engines are everywhere, and a running 5.9 core shouldn't set you back more than a grand unless your local salvage yards are thieves.

 

[Abodybomber]

Normally ,I go Magnum, use what you have .Here a basic 318 gig: Like the headers, a stock cast iron /Edelbrock's Performer 318/360 dual plane/ your choice of carb/a Summit cam & lifter kit( K6900 real mild/K6901 a mild copy of the original 340 grind both ground by Crane/ a good valve job on stock heads/ stock 340 replacement springs. ) A good economical combination, with some oats under the hood. Stock 318 short blocks, respond well to similar combinations.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I am going against the grain on the cam choice. I say stab the Comp 265DEH in it. It will have a noticeable idle and increased performance and works great with stock exhaust.

 

[70runner]

OK, at the risk of sounding like a total broken record, somebody has to ask... Why not start with a 5.9 (or 5.2) Magnum if you are doing a total engine rebuild.

I must commend your resistance to turning this car into a 440+6 Road Runner clone. I know I wouldn't be able to resist the temptation.

Thx all, some great ideas!

As to the 440-6 RR thing, daughter has requested it look like it did when we
bought it (her first car) and doesn't want it to look like mine

 

[318willrun]

I really like your 70 Plymouth. Sharp looking car, no matter what motors in it! Oh, for the motor, just make sure you get heads that are for unleaded fuel.

 

[krazykuda]

I am going against the grain on the cam choice. I say stab the Comp 265DEH in it. It will have a noticeable idle and increased performance and works great with stock exhaust.

On the stock exhaust note (pun intended), I would recommend to run dual exhaust minimum, if not add an h or x pipe.

The stock single exhaust pipe on a 318 is the biggest restriction on that engine. At least put a 2 1/4" dual exhaust on it, it will wake it up and let the 4 bbl breathe like it should.

Nothing wrong with using the stock exhaust manifolds if you wish, just hang dual pipes on them....

When I put a dual 2 1/4" exhaust with an h-pipe on my stock 70 Dart Swinger, it really woke it up, especially from 60 - 100 mph, even with the stock 2bbl carb...

 

[txstang84]

I tend to agree with the H or X pipe statement as well. But if you don't want duals for whatever reason, (I'm betting this will be an unpopular statement) and you're considering using stock manifolds you could run dual 2 1/4" head pipes into a single 3"...new trucks use that setup and it works well for them.

Volumetrically speaking, you're not losing much; Flow wise, a single 3" pipe is more than enough to satisfy 400+hp LS series engines...and keep in mind, pipes don't care what engine is in front of them. Realistically speaking, you're only paying for 1 or 2 sticks of pipe vs 3 or 4 at the muffler shop, provided they can bend 3" pipes.

Lots of options...

 

[sireland67]

Stock rebuild, if it still ran I would do this on a budget.
Just pull it apart, may need a ridge reamer to take the lip off the top off the cylinder bores.
Take the block, heads and crank to the machine shop.
Have them dip and hone the block, install new cam bearings, turn / polish the crank, do a standard valve job with new 340 springs.
Stock style 340 cam.
Put a Weiand intake it that was posted above and I recommend a 625 street demon carb, with duel exhausts running thru the stock manifolds.
It will be reliable drive every day motor for another 100,000 miles.

 

[70runner]

Thx again guys.

Trying to keep engine costs down as the Satellite needs some metal work, for example, rebuilding the lower rear window frame and usual qtr panel cancer.

Definitely plan to go with dual exhaust. Very happy with the Accurate 2.5" on my RR.

Hopefully the bores will clean up without an oversize. Hardened seats to handle Kalifornia gas.

The Mancini Clevite 77 C kit has Sealed Power (moly) rings, Sterling (cast) pistons, Clevite bearings, Melling oiler, fel pro set @ $400. Is this a reasonable approach or ?

Fabricated an engine/trans dolly which includes provision for K frame (pic1). Installed the dolly/K/440/727 assembly by lifting the front and rolling the assembly underneath. Would like to do same with the 318. I understand the K is the same for V8s except hemis?

The rear of the assembly is secured with a brace (pic2) attached to the 727 at the starter mounting on one side and the lower engine/trans fastener location on the other side (pic1). The brace sits in a cradle on the dolly. I'm assuming I'll have to fabricate another rear brace to fit the 904 and starter fastener locations.