Sending unit terminal nut size????

[Divenut]

Hey folks,

Hope everyone is enjoying the weekend. Looking for the nut that goes on the fuel sending unit terminal. Spent more time sifting through numerous coffee cans of fasteners without finding one that fits than actually replacing unit lol! Absolutely can't believe I didn't have one that fits.

Would sure appreciate it if anyone might know the size!

Thanks in advance!
Pat

 

[Dana67Dart]

Is your sender OEM or aftermarket?

 

[fatoldguy]

Hey folks,

Hope everyone is enjoying the weekend. Looking for the nut that goes on the fuel sending unit terminal. Spent more time sifting through numerous coffee cans of fasteners without finding one that fits than actually replacing unit lol! Absolutely can't believe I didn't have one that fits.

Would sure appreciate it if anyone might know the size!

Thanks in advance!
Pat

Looks like 3/16 fine .

 

[67Dart273]

I would guess either no. 8 or 10 machine screw, either 24 or 32 thread. But you should not need a nut. The original wire has a "push on" 90* connector

 

[Divenut]

Looks like 3/16 fine

Thanks so much for the quick reply. Much appreciated!

 

[Divenut]

I would guess either no. 8 or 10 machine screw, either 24 or 32 thread. But you should not need a nut. The original wire has a "push on" 90* connector

I am not familiar with this. So it just pushes over the threaded terminal?

 

[Dana67Dart]

. But you should not need a nut. The original wire has a "push on" 90* connector

The origional needs the nut to seal the insulator to the sender.

After markets don't need that.see flange in the photo post 3

OEM sender no flange

Aftermarket sender with the OEM sender post next to it. it

 

[Divenut]

Is your sender OEM or aftermarket?

Aftermarket. The the fuel line on the original corroded and cracked. Didn't want to push my luck with the temporary JB Weld bandaid any longer lol. Used the old locking ring which was much beefier than the one the unit came with. Hoping she don't leak.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Aftermarket

If your aftermarket post looks like the one in post 3 or the aftermarket in post 7 you should not need the nut. Infact it might actually get in the way.

If the rest of your OEM is ok, you could have the tube replaced by a talented radiator shop or machinest, post a photo of the rest of your OEM sender.

 

[mvh]

FYI the aftermarket sender units sold for A-bodies are not calibrated correctly to the tank shape... they have a linear scale that ignores the fact that the upper half of the tank includes a huge cut-out for the spare tire well. So you would probably be happier if you could repair the original.

Slightly changing the subject, does anyone know a source for that 90º push-on connector? The temp gauge sender also uses one, but mine is missing from the harness. Don't really want to buy a new engine compartment harness just for that.

 

[Divenut]

Quick update. Got everything hooked up, poured in 9 gallons and fired it up. No leaks yet (gotta fill it up to be sure), gauge reading a hair under 1/2 full. Quick rip around the neighborhood. All good!

Thanks again,
Pat

FYI- This is the unit I used.

 

[Ironracer]

I was actually surprised that my aftermarket gauge read so well. My Original? Ain't No Way I'd even Think about asking someone to rebuild it. What I did do, was research the different brands... now the aftermarket one I put in the Satilite? That one read funky..

 

[RustyRatRod]

Pair of pliers.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Run it till it reads 1/4 then fill it up. Record how many gallons you get in it.

Basically they tend to read full for the top 5 gallons, then 1/2 for the next 5 gallons the 1/4 to empty for the last 10 gallons. (Give or take)


If you want to pass on your old sender PM me.

 

[Divenut]

Run it till it reads 1/4 then fill it up. Record how many gallons you get in it.

Basically they tend to read full for the top 5 gallons, then 1/2 for the next 5 gallons the 1/4 to empty for the last 10 gallons. (Give or take)


If you want to pass on your old sender PM me.

Thanks. I'll post up the results/accuracy after filling up a time or 2. Gonna hang onto to original unit.

Be well,
Pat

 

[mvh]

Yeah, I tried that unit.

1. The inlet tube is a different shape and pulls from a different place in the tank. Don't know if that has any effect or not. Probably not.
2. The float arm pivot is located in a completely different position and the float arm is much shorter. This obviously would make some kind of difference. For example, small differences in fuel level would have a more extreme effect on the contact arm position; therefore the wire-wrapped resistance board should be a different shape to compensate, and the upper and lower stops would also need to be calibrated.
3. The main issue is that the resistance board does not have variable wrapping calibrated to the changing cross sectional area of the tank at different levels. It has a uniform wrapping, that produces linear output. But a 1/2-inch float position change in the top half of the A-body tank which includes the cut-out for the spare tire does not represent the same volume of fuel as a 1/2-inch change in the lower half of the tank, which is full size. So even if you can adjust the float travel by bending the stops so that the EMPTY and FULL readings at the gauge are correct, the gauge will still be inaccurate at all positions in-between. This may be close enough to work for you, but I found it intolerable in a daily driver.