Should I be feeling more power?

[BrianT]

How do I go about finding a place that does this? How much is it (typically speaking) to dyno a car?

We have a local shop here that charges $150/hr with a two hour minimum. My friend took his recently rebuilt 440 Coronet there and the guy tuned it and ran it twelve times on the dyno. He found 56 rear wheel horsepower on a car that we thought ran pretty well. It was well worth the money spent.

 

[George Jets]

Yes, it should perform better with your existing layout.

Loose the secondary electric fuel pump, it is causing restriction to the amount of fuel the manual on the engine fuel pump can pull.

Here is a "Visual" for you:

Think about it, the factory fuel line from the tank is 5/16" in diameter.

When you add in an electric inline fuel pump and pre filter, it is literally cutting the fuel line flow down to 1/8" diameter, starving the engine for fuel when it needs to pull.

It will run and perform just fine with the manual engine mount fuel pump pulling the fuel from the tank.

The secondary electric fuel pump idea is where you let your car sit for long periods of time and the fuel evaporates out of the carb.

Drive the car more often, simple is good.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[TXOval]

I would also make sure your throttle cable or rod is adjusted properly. Nothing worse than you thinking you’re at full throttle and you’re not.

It’s takes two people, but remove your aircleaner and have someone press the pedal to the floor. See if your butterflies are fully open or not.

Seems simple, but I have seen this a lot.

 

[CFD244]

I would also make sure your throttle cable or rod is adjusted properly. Nothing worse than you thinking you’re at full throttle and you’re not.

It’s takes two people, but remove your aircleaner and have someone press the pedal to the floor. See if your butterflies are fully open or not.

Seems simple, but I have seen this a lot.

LOL......I bought a first gen Cummins truck like this. Seller dumped it on me thinking he had big $$$ problems.

 

[diymirage]

We have a local shop here that charges $150/hr with a two hour minimum. My friend took his recently rebuilt 440 Coronet there and the guy tuned it and ran it twelve times on the dyno. He found 56 rear wheel horsepower on a car that we thought ran pretty well. It was well worth the money spent.

Thats a good deal, around here dyno tuning starts at 500 per session...and that was a while ago

 

[rumblefish360]

An electric pump for the mechanical pump was the old way of doing things to ensure the mechanical pump would always have fuel. The fuel pump also acted as a pressure regulator. Fuel pressure regulators came in later when the fuel pumps introduced more pressure for more volume.

Currently, I use an electric fuel pump from Edelbrock with pressures regulated for their carburetors.

 

[Mattax]

Since it runs, I would not jump on making any changes right away.
Here's why.
I tell you to go put a Performer RPM on and your mechanic buys a Performer at retail price, charges his add on, and then his time to install it. Now you've spent a bunch of money and its not even the intake that some guy on the internet recommended.

My point is you need to get yourself up to speed enough you can begin to understand what the different parts do, what the parts do, a brand, the part names. I don't know how much better it will be going to a car show. There are plenty of a people at car shows who talk like, and maybe think that they know alot about engines and performance but are essentially just BSing. How will you be able to seperate the fish stories? If you want performance, look to see who takes their cars to the drag strip, or works on roundy rounders, or other competition. You'll have a better chance.

Knowledge:
Some info is in the Factory Service Manual.

Service Manuals – MyMopar

mymopar.com

Scattered throughout the Chrysler Master Tech Conference are sessions that cover what an ignition does, and how it works, carburetor fundementals, etc.
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
for example Carburetion Fundamentals & Facts (Session 273) from the Master Technician's Service Conference

also available here in pdf format and youtube hosted videos (no index)

Chrysler Master Tech Service Conference Library – MyMopar

mymopar.com

Some things you can find here with a search, and by asking here, people will be able to fill in.
For example, how to check timing. Gets hot and stalls out

Finally, post up photos. Then we can point things out.

 

[Rude72*]

Yes, it should perform better with your existing layout.

Loose the secondary electric fuel pump, it is causing restriction to the amount of fuel the manual on the engine fuel pump can pull.

Here is a "Visual" for you:

View attachment 1716248864

Think about it, the factory fuel line from the tank is 5/16" in diameter.

When you add in an electric inline fuel pump and pre filter, it is literally cutting the fuel line flow down to 1/8" diameter, starving the engine for fuel when it needs to pull.

It will run and perform just fine with the manual engine mount fuel pump pulling the fuel from the tank.

The secondary electric fuel pump idea is where you let your car sit for long periods of time and the fuel evaporates out of the carb.

Drive the car more often, simple is good.

View attachment 1716248866


☆☆☆☆☆

Thanks for the pics and information, George. I don’t follow you on this because I’m a rock skull! Lol.

What do I need to do to “lose” the secondary fuel pump? The seller had a switch put in the car that activates the pump. What would happen if I flipped that switch to on? Just curious.

Here’s the explanation of why the seller installed that switch. This is an excerpt from the salesman (car was sold on consignment through Classic Auto Mall) who sold me the car. He relayed the information from the seller to me via text.

“As for the second fuel pump switch, that was a safety precaution after I scrapped out on him back in 2007. Left him stranded on the turnpike, so he installed a secondary one for backup. Said he hasn't had any issues with the mechanically Holley pump since 2007 incident”

It was the only “red flag” I saw when I purchased the car. It’s such a nice car and was very well maintained.

You’re saying that if I bypass or remove the secondary fuel pump, there will be a noticeable difference in power/ performance?

Thanks again for the insight on this!

 

[Rude72*]

I would also make sure your throttle cable or rod is adjusted properly. Nothing worse than you thinking you’re at full throttle and you’re not.

It’s takes two people, but remove your aircleaner and have someone press the pedal to the floor. See if your butterflies are fully open or not.

Seems simple, but I have seen this a lot.

Great advice, TXOval! I’m going to try that today! Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Rude72*]

Since it runs, I would not jump on making any changes right away.
Here's why.
I tell you to go put a Performer RPM on and your mechanic buys a Performer at retail price, charges his add on, and then his time to install it. Now you've spent a bunch of money and its not even the intake that some guy on the internet recommended.

My point is you need to get yourself up to speed enough you can begin to understand what the different parts do, what the parts do, a brand, the part names. I don't know how much better it will be going to a car show. There are plenty of a people at car shows who talk like, and maybe think that they know alot about engines and performance but are essentially just BSing. How will you be able to seperate the fish stories? If you want performance, look to see who takes their cars to the drag strip, or works on roundy rounders, or other competition. You'll have a better chance.

Knowledge:
Some info is in the Factory Service Manual.

http://[URL]https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/

[/URL]
Scattered throughout the Chrysler Master Tech Conference are sessions that cover what an ignition does, and how it works, carburetor fundementals, etc.
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
for example Carburetion Fundamentals & Facts (Session 273) from the Master Technician's Service Conference

also available here in pdf format and youtube hosted videos (no index)

http://[URL]https://mymopar.com/chrysler-master-tech-service-conference-library/

[/URL]

Some things you can find here with a search, and by asking here, people will be able to fill in.
For example, how to check timing. Gets hot and stalls out

Finally, post up photos. Then we can point things out.

Thanks Mattax. This makes perfect sense. Looks like I have some reading material to enjoy… albeit, probably with not much understanding on my part.

Pics of the motor? With and without the air cleaner on?

Thanks again for taking the time to provide me with this information.

 

[Mattax]

We need to see how it was setup. A carburetor doesn't care how the fuel is supplied. it can be supplied by gravity for all it cares.
I don't beleive a thing the salesman has texted. Not that he's a liar. He just doesn't know.
Say you remove the electric pump and then discover the mechanical pump actually doesn't even exist?
As @rumblefish360 posted, a second pump was something that used to be done in some situations. It can be done so as not to interfere with the mechanical pumps operation. I think you'll be better off without both electrically and fuelwise, but without knowing more not recommending a thing just yet.

 

[Mattax]

Pics of the motor? With and without the air cleaner on?

Sounds good.
Air cleaner off we'll see more.

 

[Shenango]

This could be as simple as the transmission is shifting too soon. Take the car out and pull in down to 1st gear. Run it up to 4500 rpm or so and shift into 2nd. With the 3xxx converter you will stay in the power band and she should keep pulling until your shorts are dirty. Any 340 I have had really liked rpm and if you can't get it to 4500 you definitely have some problems to work out.
Good luck, Jerry

 

[Rude72*]

We need to see how it was setup. A carburetor doesn't care how the fuel is supplied. it can be supplied by gravity for all it cares.
I don't beleive a thing the salesman has texted. Not that he's a liar. He just doesn't know.
Say you remove the electric pump and then discover the mechanical pump actually doesn't even exist?
As @rumblefish360 posted, a second pump was something that used to be done in some situations. It can be done so as not to interfere with the mechanical pumps operation. I think you'll be better off without both electrically and fuelwise, but without knowing more not recommending a thing just yet.

Thank you! I don’t know where to begin to give you information on how “it” was set up! Any direction would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Rude72*]

This could be as simple as the transmission is shifting too soon. Take the car out and pull in down to 1st gear. Run it up to 4500 rpm or so and shift into 2nd. With the 3xxx converter you will stay in the power band and she should keep pulling until your shorts are dirty. Any 340 I have had really liked rpm and if you can't get it to 4500 you definitely have some problems to work out.
Good luck, Jerry

I’ll give this a try today. Thank you!

 

[Mattax]

Thank you! I don’t know where to begin to give you information on how “it” was set up! Any direction would be greatly appreciated!

Lets start at the top and work back. Post some photos of the engine and engine bay.
We'll follow the fuel line back from the carburetor to the - well we'll see.

We'll see other things too with the engine bay pictures. Like how the throttle to tranmission linkage was set up. Changes to wiring. etc

 

[George Jets]

Thanks for the pics and information, George. I don’t follow you on this because I’m a rock skull! Lol.

What do I need to do to “lose” the secondary fuel pump? The seller had a switch put in the car that activates the pump. What would happen if I flipped that switch to on? Just curious.

Here’s the explanation of why the seller installed that switch. This is an excerpt from the salesman (car was sold on consignment through Classic Auto Mall) who sold me the car. He relayed the information from the seller to me via text.

“As for the second fuel pump switch, that was a safety precaution after I scrapped out on him back in 2007. Left him stranded on the turnpike, so he installed a secondary one for backup. Said he hasn't had any issues with the mechanically Holley pump since 2007 incident”

It was the only “red flag” I saw when I purchased the car. It’s such a nice car and was very well maintained.

You’re saying that if I bypass or remove the secondary fuel pump, there will be a noticeable difference in power/ performance?

Thanks again for the insight on this!

Yes, bypass or remove the secondary fuel pump.

= More Power, More Performance


☆☆☆☆☆

 

[George Jets]

The secondary electric fuel pump back at the tank should look something like this:

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[Rude72*]

The secondary electric fuel pump back at the tank should look something like this:

View attachment 1716249365


☆☆☆☆☆

OK... cool. Thanks for the visual!

 

[Rude72*]

Lets start at the top and work back. Post some photos of the engine and engine bay.
We'll follow the fuel line back from the carburetor to the - well we'll see.

We'll see other things too with the engine bay pictures. Like how the throttle to tranmission linkage was set up. Changes to wiring. etc

I will do this next weekend. I appreciate all of your help!