should i hold out for a early 360 for my stroker?

-
C

Cudafever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2009
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
1,991
I know the early 360 have more material in the bore(if the core shift is not to bad.

And that the 75-87 are not meant to be bored past .030".......how many of you have when .040 on these blocks?

And then there’s the 88-92 LA block with the roller in it.

I'm pretty sure i will be going with the Hyd retro fit roller on this one.
Which one would you us?
 
Sonic check it and I do believe you will find ample meat to bore what you need despite the year and what was in print by the powers that be, er, were.
 
my first 340 block was bored .060 and i had nothing but over heating problems. Then when i did somthing dumb and crack the cylinder wall, was shocked at how thin it really was.

I'm kinda leaning toward the roller block even tho the casting is thinner.
If its a standard bore, it should clean up at .030"
 
I ran my .040 bore '78 cast 360 block (410cid) 10.1 comp buzzed 6600 rpm with hypers and iron crank, ran cool with no problems. 360 should go .040 all day long, it's the 350 chevy that u find pin holes in the bores at .030 over..

ive never heard of any such issue, i know a guy with a .060 360 buzzing 6800 no problem, no over heating either
 
I've gotta a 1970 cast 360 block... just bored it out 60' over. So I'm hoping it doesn't run hot! Haven't run it yet so I don't really know. But the shop says it'll be fine.
 
I built my 410 stroker with a 77 360LA block(.040 over).I ran it up to 7000rpm a few times.Yes I spun a bearing,but that was due to fuel in oil or hydraulicing?If you follow Guitar Jones thread on...Oiling Mods..I,m gonna say you,ll have no problems using the later blocks(74up)JMO

P.S My car always ran cold and had to warm it up to 180 many times.
 
the 318 i had for a long time was bored 060 over and ran just fine. in fact it ran very very good. i recently rebuilt it, and just did a hone job on the bores....havent fired it up yet...but main thing, as with any block, sonic check it, and see if you can bore the least amount possible to allow room for future rebuilds...
 
Get a block and sonic test... t's the only way to know that the block you have will do what you want. Don't order parts until the block is checked. The .030 over pistons are the same price as .040 over and you won't notice any power difference. So get any one, test it, and build your engine.
 
ive never heard of any such issue, i know a guy with a .060 360 buzzing 6800 no problem, no over heating either
Click to expand...

I'm part of that club. But like Moper and I said, if the block checks out, then your good to go. A sonic check is a quick thing to do for the machinist. Once that block is set, then you know where you stand.

HP wise, an overbore is peanuts! Thicker the cylinder wall, the better. Do what is needed and nothing more when it comes to over boring an engine.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I'm part of that club. But like Moper and I said, if the block checks out, then your good to go. A sonic check is a quick thing to do for the machinist. Once that block is set, then you know where you stand.

HP wise, an overbore is peanuts! Thicker the cylinder wall, the better. Do what is needed and nothing more when it comes to over boring an engine.
Click to expand...

yes i agree, though i don't sonic test everything i do, it's good practice/advice.
 
Wow thanks guy, make me fill much better about the thin cast blocks.

Talked with my Machines today, told him any LA block will be fine, as lone as it's standard bore. Gave him the early block part # just encase there was one available.
 
I wouldn't worry about getting an early block. Core shift was a huge problem back then. I have a 74 block and after sonic checking we decided .030 overbore was as far as we should go.
 
Have no interest in a Magnum block for this project. But the LA roller block is my 2nt choice.
 
OK...I have a 79 Chrysler 300 'premium' 360 block and a 99 5.9L Magnum block...both std bore...going to build a 408...Whick block should I use???
Plan on roller hydraulic lifters either way...Thx
 
ShowAndGoResto said:
OK...I have a 79 Chrysler 300 'premium' 360 block and a 99 5.9L Magnum block...both std bore...going to build a 408...Whick block should I use???
Plan on roller hydraulic lifters either way...Thx
Click to expand...

You should have them both sonic checked for cylinder wall thickness and choose the best one.
 
in a street motor none of that matters when talking about going from std bore to a .030
over bore.imo
With a street build..
If cyl wall has no holes in it, the over bore will be worth the hp from the thicker wall...and if you could feel the power diff...ur something special.

On a competition build, diff story..since we're going for the gusto there.imo...i guess what Im saying...is that, it is an option still but not imperative when talking about a .020-.030 overbore on a 360/408 street build.jmo
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
in a street motor none of that matters when talking about going from std bore to a .030
over bore.imo
With a street build..
If cyl wall has no holes in it, the over bore will be worth the hp from the thicker wall...and if you could feel the power diff...ur something special.

On a competition build, diff story..since we're going for the gusto there.imo...i guess what Im saying...is that, it is an option still but not imperative when talking about a .020-.030 overbore on a 360/408 street build.jmo
Click to expand...

Very true but having seen what core shift has done to some blocks I still recommend sonic checking. But I do agree, you'll never see the difference between .030 and .060 on a street build, might not really see it on an all out competion motor either.
 
The last stroker I built was a .070" over 1977 360 block that I built a 416 out of. The engine is still runnin in a Ramcharger a friend owns.
 
Guitar Jones said:
Very true but having seen what core shift has done to some blocks I still recommend sonic checking. But I do agree, you'll never see the difference between .030 and .060 on a street build, might not really see it on an all out competion motor either.
Click to expand...

Yup.
 
everybody has said it above and i'll say it again....get it sonic checked, then bore THE LEAST AMOUNT NECESSARY to clean her up! If you go 10 over, next time you can do 20 or 30 but if you go 40 the first time, that might be the last rebuild for that motor......
 
I agree with you statement, but.................

But unless your planning on a full custom made piston, you are not going to find a .010, or .020 piston for stroker.

When my .060" 340 block cracked, it actually broke a piece out of it. there couldn't have been .020 of material in there.

I'm sure that if i was to grind a hole in the other side of the cylinder wall i would have found much much more material. aka Core shift.
and it was a 68 block so there wasn't and excuse of tooling wearing out or any thing like that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top