Something like the in pull nut would work. But they only ship from Japan and they sell in quantities of 500.
Shoulder belt issue on 68 Barracuda
- Thread starter SGBARRACUDA
- Start date
-
I need a solution without welding as the headliner and new carpet and seats are in it. Or else that would work.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Just throwing some thought out there. Maybe you could make your own out of flat stock? Figure a length, drill, tap, tack a strip on. Grind it in a football shape to ease the fit? Some work but?
If you can get the headliner out of the way cut a slot using die grinder then make a plate to slide in behind with a threaded hole. As mentioned earlier.
Better idea than using a nut like I suggested earlier... it would not spin and spread the load once secured.
Better idea than using a nut like I suggested earlier... it would not spin and spread the load once secured.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
I need to look at mine. It would be nice to have shoulder belts.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,825
- Reaction score
- 13,128
I have had two 69s with those belts. I did not like them and never used them. My 68 has the proper anchors, but since it was not mandatory in 68 to have or use them, I said good riddance to them. Just my opinion.
If I had your problem and really wanted those belts, I would pull the seats and carpet, throw on a welders blanket and get busy.
I have seen some nice solutions here. I could add mine,but I really like Daves69 in post #28. Perhaps you don't understand how easy that would be. You might need to elongate the existing hole in a vertical direction, and perhaps also a tad in the horizontal; but perhaps a bit of prying would get you in. You can secure Dave's strap in position with any of several methods. The securement does not need to be strong. I would orient the strap in the horizontal direction.
If you distort the sheet metal to get the strap in. it is easy to straighten out afterwards, by using the strap as a base-plate for a clamping tool.
If I had your problem and really wanted those belts, I would pull the seats and carpet, throw on a welders blanket and get busy.
I have seen some nice solutions here. I could add mine,but I really like Daves69 in post #28. Perhaps you don't understand how easy that would be. You might need to elongate the existing hole in a vertical direction, and perhaps also a tad in the horizontal; but perhaps a bit of prying would get you in. You can secure Dave's strap in position with any of several methods. The securement does not need to be strong. I would orient the strap in the horizontal direction.
If you distort the sheet metal to get the strap in. it is easy to straighten out afterwards, by using the strap as a base-plate for a clamping tool.
Thanks for all the good ideas. I'm going to visit family for a week or so and then I'll get back on it. I'll let everyone know how it works out.
If I didn't already buy new belts with the double buckles on the front bucket seat belts, I would leave them off. I'll never use them. I have them in my 69 Dart and never use them.
Your the winner of the chicken dinner. I did something like you suggested. I cut two pieces of 1/4" plate, .750 wide x 1 1/2". Use a 25/64" drill bit and tapped the hole with a 7/16" x 20 UNF. I then cut the hole to the rear of the existing hole about 1/2" and a little wider than .0750, I slid the assembly in the larger hole, rotated it 90 degrees and drilled a 1/8" hole to rivet the threaded blank into position. I used a flat washer between the belt hardware and the threaded hole behind the headliner just to add some strength to the whole set up. Turned out good. Thanks for everyone's input on this issue' as usual you all came thru.
I know this is a older thread, but to be clear, can anyone verify that the coat hook hole on a 67 is the proper place for the shoulder strap mount modification? It looks like it is a few inches in front of it in a couple of pictures. 4 inches? Id like to be sure.
Yes the shoulder belt mount position is in front of the coat hook hole.
Do you have any idea how far?
Thanks for the reply SGB
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,825
- Reaction score
- 13,128
You can feel it thru the thin headliner. 68s had 'em
67s IDK . I stripped one out that didn't
67s IDK . I stripped one out that didn't
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Hello, and big thank you to SBBARRACUDA, I followed his ideas and successfully installed front shoulder belt attachment points on my early 1968 Barracuda. My early '68 had the shoulder harness bracket with a hole in it but did not have the nut welded on the back.
I did as what was recommended . The only real addition was that I made up a gauge to do trials with the puck prior to doing the actual install. That allowed me to perfect a method to hold the puck in position while the puck set screw was tightened. The gauge also served as a template to mark the position of the hole to be drilled in the car body for the set screw to match to the puck and to slightly enlarge the OE bracket hole. In doing some install trials with the gauge and the puck I quickly found that all I needed to do was to use a thin string, knotted through the main shoulder belt bolt hole at 12:00, insert the puck through the slightly enlarged car body bracket hole, then pull back on the string. the puck just about centered, I used a marker that had about the same diameter of as the shoulder mount bolt to align the puck set screw hole with the drilled hole. Ran the set screw in and tightened it slightly, used a razor blade to cut the string, finished tightened the set screw and I was done.
I did as what was recommended . The only real addition was that I made up a gauge to do trials with the puck prior to doing the actual install. That allowed me to perfect a method to hold the puck in position while the puck set screw was tightened. The gauge also served as a template to mark the position of the hole to be drilled in the car body for the set screw to match to the puck and to slightly enlarge the OE bracket hole. In doing some install trials with the gauge and the puck I quickly found that all I needed to do was to use a thin string, knotted through the main shoulder belt bolt hole at 12:00, insert the puck through the slightly enlarged car body bracket hole, then pull back on the string. the puck just about centered, I used a marker that had about the same diameter of as the shoulder mount bolt to align the puck set screw hole with the drilled hole. Ran the set screw in and tightened it slightly, used a razor blade to cut the string, finished tightened the set screw and I was done.
Hey glad it worked out for you. Once you attack it, in the end you realize it ain't that big a deal.
famous bob
mopar misfit
------NUTSERT------
famous bob
mopar misfit
Sell them , and go buy yourself something else .
I use my shoulder belts off the rollbar if I use them at all.
Except all of them are the wrong thread. But they are cool.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Prior to starting the project described above, I did some internet searching for the strength of nutsert / rivnut and other blind hole fasteners.
I found threads where some one had installed a roll bar and used nutserts to mount it to the floor, failed NHRA inspection, other threads where blind hole inserts were not considered strong enough for sway bar mounts,, general consensus was, they are great for panel mounts, other non critical applications, but it’s your car, do as you choose. I believe the ‘pucks’ as installed would be at least as strong as a welded on nut.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
This month's Mopar Muscle magazine has a good article on exactly how to do that without welding. PM me with your cell phone number, and I will send you some high resolution pictures of the article.
Good thread! Just did my drivers side on my 67 fastback tonight after reading this thread last week. I used a bigger plate than I saw here, also, my interior is stripped.
-
