Silicon brake fluid

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jawbone

jawbone

Cuda_queer
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Have the opportunity coming up to convert over to silicon brake fluid. Replacing master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders for disc brake conversion BUT have assembled front brake calipers with brake assembly grease. Looking for a sort of do and don't statement when it comes to the conversion not only regarding calipers as a possible issue but the entire conversion itself. Have only received input from one person that swears by it mostly due to fact it does not affect paint. Having repainted my firewall, both inside and out I understand. I acknowledge the affect temperature has on it. Do not intend to autox or drag race my car. Has anyone made this conversion?
 
I will be using Dot 5 on my 65 Dart with everything brand new - hard lines, hoses, front and tear calipers, master cylinder. FWIW I’ve also converted several used cars after flushing the entire system with denatured alcohol with no issues
 
65 Dartman said:
I will be using Dot 5 on my 65 Dart with everything brand new - hard lines, hoses, front and tear calipers, master cylinder. FWIW I’ve also converted several used cars after flushing the entire system with denatured alcohol with no issues
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Hey thanks for the response. Forgot to ask what to flush it with.
 
I've run Dot 5 in my 68 Roadrunner for almost 20 years and have had no issues ever. When I converted to front disc I also changed hard lines ,rear cylinders, hoses to stainless braided a disc combination valve and a new master. It was the right time to do it. No regrets.
 
66Valiant528 said:
I've run Dot 5 in my 68 Roadrunner for almost 20 years and have had no issues ever. When I converted to front disc I also changed hard lines ,rear cylinders, hoses to stainless braided a disc combination valve and a new master. It was the right time to do it. No regrets.
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Sounds good to me. That's where I'm at. Thanks for responding.
 
I will be filling the brake system with DOT 5 on my FS. I've been running DOT 5 in my 300G for 45 years. Won't damage paint, no 3 year flushes, won't absorb moisture, 500 degree boiling point.
 
If you are taking the lines apart, blow them out with air (with something on the far end so you don't blow old fluid all over), pour alcohol through and blow them out again.
 
str12-340 said:
If you are taking the lines apart, blow them out with air (with something on the far end so you don't blow old fluid all over), pour alcohol through and blow them out again.
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Thanks for responding. Good information.
 
We had to flush the DOT 5 from a Limo project. Too much distance vs. the lack of compression left it with an endless soft pedal.
Smaller systems are not effected as much as larger systems.
 
8 years with DOT 5.

I used BrakeKleen to blow out my steel lines and prop valve, and replaced all the hoses along with the MC, calipers, and wheel cylinders.
 
When filling a system with DOT5
Bodyperson said:
We had to flush the DOT 5 from a Limo project. Too much distance vs. the lack of compression left it with an endless soft pedal.
Smaller systems are not effected as much as larger systems.
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The soft pedal is caused by tiny bubbles in the fluid. DOT 5 must be never be shaken while in the bottle, and must be poured slowly into the master cyl. Using a gravity bleed or suction bleed seems to work better than having someone push the pedal to bleed. I agree, bubbles introduce compression in the fluid and could be a problem in a large volume system. I think this is why it is not to be used in an ABS system.
 
Bodyperson said:
We had to flush the DOT 5 from a Limo project. Too much distance vs. the lack of compression left it with an endless soft pedal.
Smaller systems are not effected as much as larger systems.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Thanks for the comment.
 
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