Slant 6 engine ignition timing stays retarded.

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dodgemahal said:
That's certainly food for thought, albeit a somewhat unpalatable set of options.

I don't see a damper(at least not my concept of a damper) on my slant. No place to put a timing tape. I have a group of pulleys. Is that the damper?
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Damper is the also called the harmonic balancer. That's the circular weight with the TDC mark on it.
 
Mattax said:
Since this is a change, compare the new to the old. In particular the distance from the mounting stud to the pickup center. Can't tell you why there might be a difference but there's only a few parts that could change the signal relative to the rotor tip and cap.
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That's interesting and a great idea(I never would have thought of that). I'll do some measuring. That's why I don't rush to throw away the old parts. Thanks!
 
Mattax said:
Damper is the also called the harmonic balancer. That's the circular weight with the TDC mark on it.
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Mr. Mattax,
I dont have a weighted ring. I have a set of three(I think) V-pulleys with notches stamped in one of them. I'll share a picture later. They must act as a damper, I guess. Maybe the hub is rubber.

Do you own the Mattax crime show Dart?
 
The crankshaft pully is attached to a steel damper. The damper is steel with the outer portion (also steel) joined to the inner by a rubber ring.
 
Mattax said:
The crankshaft pully is attached to a steel damper. The damper is steel with the outer portion (also steel) joined to the inner by a rubber ring.
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Thanks for clarifying. I kinda thought that would be the case. Although, no good place to attach a timing tape to accurately identify TDC. I'm learning a lot about these slants...thanks to all.
 
Photo here, but he doesn't state what year.

On the slants, the ballancer has a v-belt groove in it. That's what I didn't remember.
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That looks like my set up. It's sandwiched between two other pulleys so you can't see the "business" part of it. Sorry for my ignorance.....my 1st slant.
 
I've run into your problem in the past and it was just a matter of rotating the distributor gear one tooth and then moving both slot adjustments on the bracket the other way.
 
You need to verify the notch on the balancer accurately corresponds to true TDC before you do anything else. The rubber ring can deteriorate over time and cause the outer ring of the balancer to slip on the inner hub. If the timing mark on it no longer accurately aligns with your timing pointer, nothing you do will fix that until you verify TDC with your #1 piston and see if it corresponds with your timing mark and pointer...
 
cudamark said:
I've run into your problem in the past and it was just a matter of rotating the distributor gear one tooth and then moving both slot adjustments on the bracket the other way.
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Slot adjustments were already at max advance. I tried rotating dist gear tooth. Didn't work.
CNC-Dude said:
You need to verify the notch on the balancer accurately corresponds to true TDC before you do anything else. The rubber ring can deteriorate over time and cause the outer ring of the balancer to slip on the inner hub. If the timing mark on it no longer accurately aligns with your timing pointer, nothing you do will fix that until you verify TDC with your #1 piston and see if it corresponds with your timing mark and pointer...
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Thanks for this input Dude. I'll tell you why in the next post.
 
Runs great now. I lengthened the slot and removed the upper corner of the bracket. It came in with no adjustment at 5 before TDC. Is that okay or should I be at spec wich is 2.5.
Now for that pesky, nearly massive, exhaust manifold leak.


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Might also check that the distributor gear has been properly installed. When installing the gear, there is sometimes is a hole that is already in the gear the you do NOT use. Some people mistakenly used it to install a new gear. Been a while, but I believe that there are a shim washers and you use a feeler guage (.0100?) to set some clearance between the nylon gear and distribtor body. Also, I believe the tip of the rotor should be inline with the tip of a tooth on the gear.
 
dodgemahal said:
Because the screw that fastens the distributor down is confined in a metal slot. I've got it as far as it will go. As I said in my original post, I was thinking about lengthening the slot so I can go further. Would you like a picture?
What is CAP?
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There is a second adjustment on the plate under the distributor itself, PIA to get to in the car.

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