Slant 6 timing chain lubrication?

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@Dne007 take a look at my "cheap & nasty" thread. I'm showing how I handle the oil plug timing chain oiler. Feel free to copy it if you so desire. I'm not done with it yet, as I had to order a Holley .040 jet which I did not have. Here's the thread.

 
I was wondering how one would drill a .040 hole without breaking a tiny drill bit! This is a great idea~ argh, I wasn't going to do , but now I just may~ ;) :lol:

"So how cheap & nasty is cheap & nasty gonna be? Before I answer that, here's my first mod. See that hole in the middle of the main oil passage plug? It's a little big, ain't it? That's cause it's a beeotch to drill a .040" hole without the bit breaking. So, my solution is to tap it to 1/4 x 32 UNF and screw a Holley .040" main jet into it. Problem solved and the timing chain now has pressurized oil."
 
I ordered the .040 jet, and luckily, the cam has access to remove it~ how fortunate!!;) :lol:

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I was thinking to put the .040 (if I ever get it) jet on the backside of the plug vs in the Allen drive portion. What say you?

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I don’t understand why you guys have problems with small drill bits. They are small yes, fragile yea, but all that means is you slow down, use correct pressure and speed and keep it lubricated and you’ll be fine.
 
Well, in my defense, I don't have a drill chuck that small, give me a sec, trying to think of something else~ oh, it's a cool "upgrade" knowing I have a Holley carburetor jet in my oil passage;)
 
Well, in my defense, I don't have a drill chuck that small, give me a sec, trying to think of something else~ oh, it's a cool "upgrade" knowing I have a Holley carburetor jet in my oil passage;)
I have a pin vise, which is a small hand held drill, but no matter how light a touch I use, I end up breaking the bit going into metal. Now going into plastic, like with my model railroad modeling, I can do it all day long. But with metal, as soon as I get any depth to the hole at all....."SNAP".
 
The jet will work the same installed either way. It's not like the oil pressure would ever blow it out from the front. That said, I'll probably install mine from the back as well.
 
This is an interesting thread about something I didn't even knew had existed as a problem with these engines.
I would like to thank all of you for posting in this thread, it was very informative.
I love it when I get to learn something new.
That's why I love this site!
 
well, when I was ready to button up the front of my slant, I did ask myself, where does the oil come from? It's like the chain functions on very little lubrication as it gets something from the crank, and cam bearings. That being said, it's existed for generations that way. I'm just doing cause I'm there~ I wouldn't take the timing cover off a running engine to do this mod~ again, I'm just there and so why not~ ;)

This is an interesting thread about something I didn't even knew had existed as a problem with these engines.
I would like to thank all of you for posting in this thread, it was very informative.
I love it when I get to learn something new.
That's why I love this site!
 
I can't think of a single Chrysler engine that has pressurized oil to the timing chain. IMO, that's why the chains stretch really quickly. They don't get the amount of oil they need to keep them cool and lubed. I said lubed.
 
Well, in my defense, I don't have a drill chuck that small, give me a sec, trying to think of something else~ oh, it's a cool "upgrade" knowing I have a Holley carburetor jet in my oil passage;)
Do you have a drill press with a chuck large enough to hold the plug? That’s how I prefer to do it.
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Well that's a CHUCK! and no, I certainly don't~ is that the size hole? looks big
:rofl:
 
Aluminum and brass are tougher on the small bits than steel, because aluminum and brass stick in the flutes of the bit and make the bit hang up more. SNAP
 
That’s a 1/4” npt pipe plug with a 045 hole drilled in it. Just an example
I have an OLD Rockwell drill press, but I don't think it'll grab a 1/4" NPT plug. I've never tried, though.
 
Nose grease.

You take your wee li'l drill bit and wipe/roll it in the corner where your nose meets your cheek. My Grandpa used to do that with the metal ferrule on 2-piece bamboo fishing rods. They'd come right apart later. Best tiny-drill-bit lube known to man. It keeps the bit from grabbing.

If the plug I'm drilling is small enough to put in my drill, I clamp the pin vise in the bench vise and put the plug in the drill chuck, just as @TT5.9mag showed. I make my own carb bleeds/restrictions this way, rather than paying $6/pr.

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Nose grease.

You take your wee li'l drill bit and wipe/roll it in the corner where your nose meets your cheek. My Grandpa used to do that with the metal ferrule on 2-piece bamboo fishing rods. They'd come right apart later. Best tiny-drill-bit lube known to man. It keeps the bit from grabbing.

If the plug I'm drilling is small enough to put in my drill, I clamp the pin vise in the bench vise and put the plug in the drill chuck, just as @TT5.9mag showed. I make my own carb bleeds/restrictions this way, rather than paying $6/pr.

View attachment 1716322306
I do the same with all the brass in my carbs.
 
I got the jets, drill bit and tap~ drilled it, taped it, jbweld(I don't want this jet coming loose), I know red locktite would work, but I don't have any on hand. I was able to wrap up the timing cover, then the oil pan; made some decent progress. Now just waiting for intake/exhaust head studs from Badvert65, his ebay site;)

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