slant six cranks but won't start

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pishta said:
if it can crank it surely can spark. you may have altered the distributor timing: put your compression gauge on #1 and turn the fan belt to turn the motor (or bump it just a touch at a time) until you feel pressure start to build. stick a rigid wire in the #1 spark plug hole and then run the motor up until the wire tops out (piston at TDC) now look at damper pulley, see TDC mark? check #1 wire tower location and pull the cap. The rotor MUST be sitting on #1 or a few degrees away. If its not, turn the distributor until its as close as you can get it or possible rewire the cap if its way off. We dont know if you replaced the wires correctly (I wired up a 360 like a 400 and obviously it didnt work) or did it 1 tower off. IF you got spark and enough compression to feel it blow your thumb off, it should light off even some old *** gas...its a slant!
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we used a new battery much more cranking power but we found the plug wires are old going to replace
 
That ain't even hittin a lick. If you have spark, my guess is it's flooding all to hell. You said the plugs were soaked. Have you looked down the carburetor throat when cranking to see if fuel is dripping into the intake? It may have a compromised float.
 
Yeah, I'm only about 50 minutes from him. I'll have to see what I can do to scramble some assistance!
 
Hello Dr. John! For starters, what's the history of your \6? Is it original to the car, is it the first fire after a rebuild or has it been swapped from another vehicle. When was the last time you know of it running? Are you able to get any start at all? I would get a jug to gravity feed the carburetor to the fuel line to start with and proceed from there. What car is this engine in?
 
OP you haven't said a thing about what you have tested (besides replacing parts)

1...Have you tested for spark? IMPORTANT. "Rig" a test gap or overgapped plug to the coil with a WIRE core wire and not a resistor wire. Crank using the key and check for spark. Should have a nice blue snappy spark at least 3/8" and more typically 1/2" long

2...Fuel? Has this BEEN running? Or parked/ stored? Is the fuel stale? You SURE?

3...Are plugs fuel fouled?

4...Have you run a leakdown/ compression test?

Diagnostics are IMPORTANT and throwing parts at something, whether you can afford it or not is no way to "fix" something.

(Example, you "throw" a bunch of money at tuning it up---which it may or may not need, only to find something "else" in the end like a poor connection/ path from the ignition switch to the ignition system--or maybe even a bad switch.)
 
bottle feed it from a spray can of carb cleaner. It'll hit if it has spark. Just shoot it from a distance while cranking and when it catches just give it a shot every 2-3 seconds to keep it running. Have you pulled a plug and rest it on the valve cover/ground (connected) to see it spark? Your rotor button may be crap. If your getting spark at the coil, it still needs to get through the rotor to get to the plugs. I cant imagine all the plug wires going south in one fell stroke?
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Hello Dr. John! For starters, what's the history of your \6? Is it original to the car, is it the first fire after a rebuild or has it been swapped from another vehicle. When was the last time you know of it running? Are you able to get any start at all? I would get a jug to gravity feed the carburetor to the fuel line to start with and proceed from there. What car is this engine in?
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1965 Dart not original call came with a v8. bought the car with 6 in it. no rebuild not sure when it was last running- probably a really long time. the guy I bought it from had it a few years , before him it sat in some else's garage for a long while. replace starter, points, condenser, distributor cap, msd coil for points, getting new wires this weekend. pulled all sparkplugs they were new re-gapped,.035 . using quick start or pouring gas into carb to get it to fire up, carb probably needs rebuild or ajustment. using key to start it almost kick over once, now just cranks
 
pishta said:
bottle feed it from a spray can of carb cleaner. It'll hit if it has spark. Just shoot it from a distance while cranking and when it catches just give it a shot every 2-3 seconds to keep it running. Have you pulled a plug and rest it on the valve cover/ground (connected) to see it spark? Your rotor button may be crap. If your getting spark at the coil, it still needs to get through the rotor to get to the plugs. I cant imagine all the plug wires going south in one fell stroke?
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plug wires could be original?
 
67Dart273 said:
OP you haven't said a thing about what you have tested (besides replacing parts)

1...Have you tested for spark? IMPORTANT. "Rig" a test gap or overgapped plug to the coil with a WIRE core wire and not a resistor wire. Crank using the key and check for spark. Should have a nice blue snappy spark at least 3/8" and more typically 1/2" long

2...Fuel? Has this BEEN running? Or parked/ stored? Is the fuel stale? You SURE?

3...Are plugs fuel fouled?

4...Have you run a leakdown/ compression test?

Diagnostics are IMPORTANT and throwing parts at something, whether you can afford it or not is no way to "fix" something.

(Example, you "throw" a bunch of money at tuning it up---which it may or may not need, only to find something "else" in the end like a poor connection/ path from the ignition switch to the ignition system--or maybe even a bad switch.)
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we do start it from the key working on compression test spark plugs new not fouled never been running parked long time not using gas tank NOT THROWING MONEY AT ANYTHING we are taking it one part at a time to diagnose the issue your statement is a bit insulting! put questions here because we are stuck and thought we might get help with something we may have missed!
 
Dr John OConnor PhD said:
we do start it from the key working on compression test spark plugs new not fouled never been running parked long time not using gas tank NOT THROWING MONEY AT ANYTHING we are taking it one part at a time to diagnose the issue your statement is a bit insulting! put questions here because we are stuck and thought we might get help with something we may have missed!
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Now you're contradicting yourself. Here you say "spark plugs not fouled". In an earlier post you said they were soaked. Let's get the correct info here.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That ain't even hittin a lick. If you have spark, my guess is it's flooding all to hell. You said the plugs were soaked. Have you looked down the carburetor throat when cranking to see if fuel is dripping into the intake? It may have a compromised float.
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never said plugs were soaked?
 
my 65 Dart service manual said firing order should be 1 5 3 6 2 4. I found 3 different versions on the internet. how would this be different in connecting the plug wires to the dist cap?
 
Dr John OConnor PhD said:
sorry about that
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Happens all the time. No big deal really, but it would help if you started a new one. Tell us everything about the car, what you've tried, your method of diagnosis.....even if all you've done is basically thrown parts at it, we need to know. We can show you how to actually diagnose something, instead of just throwing money at it. If you'll listen.
 
For the Doctor; Have you checked to see if you’re getting spark directly out of the coil? You need to make sure that number one plug wire is directly on the terminal at the rotor on TDC. The firing order is 153624. If your not getting spark out of the coil, get a jumper wire from the battery to the ballast resistor and see what you have. I should have asked if you’re getting voltage to the coil with power on.
 
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153624 is correct (most all straight sixes have this order) It doesn't matter much if the location of #1 is slightly different but this is how the plugs wires are cut to fit. rotation is clockwise. Take a plug wire off and use an ohmmeter on it to see how 'bad' it is. ~10Kohm/foot is OK. You dodnt mention rotor in the parts that were replaced. the rotor can go bad (not likely) or more often the button in the cap, but that is new. Same deal...measure ohms from button to center terminal of cap just ot be sure. There is a spring in there that can break, the carbon button can break due to cap misalignment when clamped on, etc.
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pishta said:
153624 is correct (most all straight sixes have this order) It doesn't matter much if the location of #1 is slightly different but this is how the plugs wires are cut to fit. rotation is clockwise. Take a plug wire off and use an ohmmeter on it to see how 'bad' it is. ~10Kohm/foot is OK. You dodnt mention rotor in the parts that were replaced. the rotor can go bad (not likely) or more often the button in the cap, but that is new. Same deal...measure ohms from button to center terminal of cap just ot be sure. There is a spring in there that can break, the carbon button can break due to cap misalignment when clamped on, etc.
View attachment 1715771168
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that's how we set it up
 
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