slant6racer
Well-Known Member
Sorry, been out of town. I got it from the Cox bros. along time ago. I am sure that it can be reverse engineered.
Will
Will
Slant Six Solid Roller Camshaft
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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kowalski440
Well-Known Member
Maybe make it out of the polymer material Comp is using for other engine families instead of bronze?
Well, I thought I would update this, FWIW. Since I figured out I cannot do the roller cam due to finances, I backed up and punted and got a small solid flat tappet. I gotta back and put again, because it's too small. LOL After preliminary measurements, I'll have 8.8 DCR. That ain't happenin on pump gas, so I need something different.
Anyway, Kitty had her pre-op appointment today, so that put us in Macon. I went ahead and took pistons, rods, rod bolts and head to the sheen shop. So at least next week, I'll have that done. Caint do too much at the time, cause it's one piece at a time. But that's ok. Will keep yall posted.
Anyway, Kitty had her pre-op appointment today, so that put us in Macon. I went ahead and took pistons, rods, rod bolts and head to the sheen shop. So at least next week, I'll have that done. Caint do too much at the time, cause it's one piece at a time. But that's ok. Will keep yall posted.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Will is quite busy with the Vixen no prep Challenger. He ran a Cox brothers roller with the brass gear they sold with cam. As he said he has since gone with an external pump system, dry sump. I think I can still get in touch with Jim Cox, I bought a few parts from him a year or so ago.
That was one of the cams I was going to get...along with the gear. Just not in the cards.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Rod, here's an out of the box idea....use an external EFI pump for your oil pressure? They run at up to 70 psi and your motor doesnt need all that to run. The only drawback is the cold viscosity of motor oil unless you run 0w20 oil. Wonder if it would work...wire an ignition kill if you lose pump/oil pressure. Seems you could do a pre-oiler with it too.
That is interesting. It's funny you mention the oil thing. The next oil change on the Valiant I am going to go to 5/20 or 5/30. That would certainly solve the oil pump drive problem for the roller, wouldn't it? I like how you think. I cannot afford it right now, but maybe in the future.
pishta
I know I'm right....
The ABS pump on my SC runs brake fluid at 800 psi. but the volume is next to nothing. could always run a dry sump. just thinking frugal. EFI pumps are <$25 on ebay.
Yeah but the roller cam is where the money is......and now roller lifters......that I've already sold. So, for now, it's flat tappetsville.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
What about the "poor mans" roller setup? Mushroom cam and lifters. Years ago that was the setup for racing associations, that did not allow roller cams.
Bush the lifter bores, and use existing mushroom lifters (ex: VW, or "Y" block ford) ask Ken if they can grind a cam.
Mopar used to have these available for some of their engines. Called the Mini Express series of cams if I remember correctly.
I started to look into this, and have a couple of lifters, but didn't bother Ken, as I have too many other projects to do first.
Bush the lifter bores, and use existing mushroom lifters (ex: VW, or "Y" block ford) ask Ken if they can grind a cam.
Mopar used to have these available for some of their engines. Called the Mini Express series of cams if I remember correctly.
I started to look into this, and have a couple of lifters, but didn't bother Ken, as I have too many other projects to do first.
Yes, I have a local friend into that stuff. I think he has a couple of the Mini Express cams. Good memory, Charlie. It's got a long ways to go yet, I may hit the lottery before I'm done.
Rollers are not a problem because you have a friend at Crower.
Yeah well........I didn't know that before I liquidated my lifters so........hopefully my friend at Crower will help with a big solid flat tappet. The more I calculate, the more I think I might need to go one more step up to a 292 lobe instead of the 284. I don't want any chance of detonation at all. And I plan on running at least a 3.89 gear. Possibly lower.
I think I am going to go even bigger with the camshaft. Probably 292 or 296 with a 112 LSA. I want the wider LSA so that the torque curve will be a little wider and not so peaky. Want to go a little bigger because I am going to try to get stylish with the head and mill it for some quench. Since I will be milling the block deck for zero deck height, why not take advantage of that? Gotta talk to "somebody" about the cam first and so far, I've not been able to. I may call Ken at Oregon Monday. I'm lookin at their mechanical grind #183, but I gotta find out where the valve events are. Stuff still at the machine shop. Hopefully it'll be done next week.
That's an awful lot of lobe separation, 225 slanty's are like the "big blocks" of the slanty world,they kinda respond the same...tighter is more gusto.....I'm not sure what the tightest is, but I think they have run 104-105 a bunch on runners. Did You run this over at .org in the builds matrix? It's like the Car Craft where they kept tightening the LSA on a big block and it kept making more & more output.......a relatively narrow RPM band is in Your future no matter what, even with a good head...................
Link bars for sure.
No, I'm not trying to emulate anyone else's build. This is mine. No offense. The wide LSA is intentional. That will give it more of a flat torque curve with a little more on the bottom, which is what I am looking for.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
when you mention 290+ duration, is that @.050 or advertized?
And something to think about,
Since you are planning around a roller cam, the open and close ramp angles will be a lot steeper.
The roller will open and close the valve faster, the engine will see the larger valve lift values sooner and longer (depending upon how the lobe is profiled) so with a roller you may not need to plug in more duration compared to a solid lifter can to get the effect of more duration.
And something to think about,
Since you are planning around a roller cam, the open and close ramp angles will be a lot steeper.
The roller will open and close the valve faster, the engine will see the larger valve lift values sooner and longer (depending upon how the lobe is profiled) so with a roller you may not need to plug in more duration compared to a solid lifter can to get the effect of more duration.
Advertised, of course. lol ....and maybe you missed it in all "this mess" but I had to nix the roller idea. I got it all worked out "so it will work" I simply cannot afford it at this time.
Well, I finally was able to get a "little" done here. Got the rod bolts replaced with gooduns, rods resized and pistons mashed on. Also got the head cleaned and magged, but it's still at the shop. Takin him the 318 valves Monday so he can hog the heads out for those and do the valve job. Then it's on to my head porter. Slow, but forward motion nonetheless.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Just get the runner big enough aka sloped.
I know I say it over n over but. Theres not much you can touch near the guide n roof area.
I remember you sayin that. Thanks. I will remind him, but he's pretty dang sharp. You may remember the ported head he did for me several years ago. Like your stuff. Real art work.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Killians?
What were the #'s again, you have the link still? They were pretty looking I remember.
I don't and I have no clue where the flow sheets are. It's on here somewhere. I'll see if I can find it.
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