SLANT SIX water pump install

-
Mickel

Mickel

New Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2020
Messages
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Orlando Florida
Took off water pump and didnt mark the bolt holes. Now i realize that the bolts are different sizes in lenth.

Anyone know where or how to determine where the short go and where the long go?

Any help is appreciated
 
stick a pencil in each hole and find the closest bolt. Not sure if any are open to water jackets.
 
The long bolts go in the long bolt bosses and the short bolts go in the short bolt bosses. It's really not difficult.
 
Last edited:
pishta said:
stick a pencil in each hole and find the closest bolt. Not sure if any are open to water jackets.
Click to expand...

I think he'll find the holes are all the same depth. The bosses on the water pump is where the differences are.
 
use a pencil to gauge depth with the pump in place....That would make a "hole" lot more sense! :p
 
RustyRatRod said:
The long bolts go in the long bolt bosses and the short bolts go in the short bolt bosses. It's really not difficult.
Click to expand...
you were correct Sir. the difference is in the waterpump and not the engine holes.

its in and thanks to you and all that commented
 
Insure you use a gasket on both sides of the sheet-metal plate. Check each hole first to see whether it is blind or penetrates into the water cavity. For the later, coat the bolt threads with sealant. I use Permatex gasket sealant, which is a gummy rubber liquid which cleans up with ethanol. Best to take your time and first install each bolt without the pump until it bottoms out and measure to insure it won't bottom out with the pump on. Also clean up threads with a tap if any rust. Don't coat the gaskets with RTV like some gomers do. If you feel you must, use a gasket sealant and best if only on one side so the gasket won't want to squeeze out and tear.
 
BillGrissom said:
Insure you use a gasket on both sides of the sheet-metal plate. Check each hole first to see whether it is blind or penetrates into the water cavity. For the later, coat the bolt threads with sealant. I use Permatex gasket sealant, which is a gummy rubber liquid which cleans up with ethanol. Best to take your time and first install each bolt without the pump until it bottoms out and measure to insure it won't bottom out with the pump on. Also clean up threads with a tap if any rust. Don't coat the gaskets with RTV like some gomers do. If you feel you must, use a gasket sealant and best if only on one side so the gasket won't want to squeeze out and tear.
Click to expand...

Bill, I am a BIG believer in RTV. I don't goop it all over God's creation, but I do use it in nearly every bole that screws into the block, blind holes or open. The reason I do that is because RTV not only seals, but it also keeps bolts from rusting and seizing up. Living in the south where it's really humid, I've seen bolts in blind holes rust slam up. RTV stops that from happening. Some people cry about how "hard" it is to clean up, but that's a lot easier to me than broken bolts.
 
Last edited:
RustyRatRod said:
Bill, I am a BIG believer in RTV. I don't goop it all over God's creation, but I do use it in nearly every bole that screws into the block, blind holes or open. The reason I do that is because RTV not only seals, but it also keeps bolts from rusting and seizing up. Living in the south where it's really humid, I've seen bolts in blind holes rust slam up. RTV stops that from happening. Some people cry about how "hard" it is to clean up, but that's a lot easier to me than broken bolts.
Click to expand...
nope. That is what "anti seize" is for.
 
I have never been a fan of "that" sealer (RTV) if anything I use something like Copper Coat or Indian Head
 
volaredon said:
I have never been a fan of "that" sealer (RTV) if anything I use something like Copper Coat or Indian Head
Click to expand...

They work as well. I like the RTV because it's capable of doing many different things. Keeps me from buying several items. But you're right. Technically it's not made as an anti seize agent. It just happens to work.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Bill, I am a BIG believer in RTV.
Click to expand...
Next time, try Permatex gasket sealant on bolts. It is a gummy liquid, perhaps butyl rubber like the adhesive used on modern windshields, but it stays pliable. It is very sticky, but cleans up easy with ethanol. I keep a small can on the shop table since I use it so much and the can lasts for years without hardening. Has a brush-in-lid like PVC solvent. You can also coat gaskets with it, which is it's main purpose, but not too much or the gasket can squish out. I haven't tried gasket shellac, which I think sets up harder. For things like weatherstrip rubber repair and sealing cracks from rainwater, I like polyurethane caulk. It is better than silicone caulk.
 
Last edited:
BillGrissom said:
Next time, try Permatex gasket sealant on bolts. It is a gummy liquid, perhaps butyl rubber like the adhesive used on modern windshields, but it stays pliable. It is very sticky, but cleans up easy with ethanol. I keep a small can on the shop table since I use it so much and the can lasts for years without hardening. Has a brush-in-lid like PCV solvent. You can also coat gaskets with it, which is it's main purpose, but not too much or the gasket can squish out. I haven't tried gasket shellac, which I think sets up harder. For things like weatherstrip rubber repair and sealing cracks from rainwater, I like polyurethane caulk. It is better than silicone caulk.
Click to expand...

Yes it works very well. Also Prematex #2 is the exact same, but in more of a paste form. It's easier to control and stays right where you put it. We used it for Volkswagen engine case halves. Sealed them real good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top