Slow build 71 Scamp 440

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You don't have to have fluid loss for the master cylinder to be bad...it could be bypassing internally...fluid pushes past the O-rings when pressure is applied. It's cheap to buy the parts if your local place has them, but to guarantee they'll stay good, you need to hone the length of the cylinder. For my own piece of mind, it's easier to just buy a new or reman'd master cylinder and go from there...besides, if you want to paint it, it's easier to paint one without rust on it.
 
Posted in transmission tech:

I'm having the same problem and this thread talks about it and yet no solution is found. I have quoted his problem and mine.

1971 Scamp /6

Quote from : http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=424584

" Just to give some more details, it acts fine when putting into gear and never misses a shift or slips. The shifts are also pretty firm and quick at WOT. The only issue I have with this transmission is that when accelerating slowly and then gradually letting off the gas(forgot to add that part), for example when driving through a full parking lot with a stop at the end, it will most of the time "clunk" into second gear as I start to coast. If I am accelerating at a constant rate, no matter how slowly, it usually won't "clunk" like that."

My build and discussion: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=273991

Any thoughts? I will check the U joint tomorrow weather permitting.
 
Also gas leak is gone after burning some fuel off. it must be the filler line gasket. I'll know more when I get to E and drop the tank.
 
Rear end still making a bad bearing noise or warped drum noise. :banghead: Going to pull the wheels tomorrow. Had to much on the plate today. Did brakes on my daily driver "Sunfire" and fixed the headliner in my Ram 3500. Material was coming off. Then the wife presented me with her Jeep Tj and a very loose driver door handle near falling out that needed re securing. Then gardening :violent1:
 
Re post from another thread but also has ti do with my build.

"I pulled the wheels and took a look at the brakes and they are solid with even wear and seem to have been done recently. When I had the car up and this may mean nothing as I'm not familiar with this rear end, but when rotating the axle left to right there seems to be play before the drive shaft would begin to spin. Maybe nothing but worth mentioning. I'll be back at it tomorrow and will definitely inspect the u joints a little closer. "

Also I seem to have nailed down the gas leak.
Looks like where the lines go into the tank. May get lucky here and just need some new clamps on the line.

Also bought the master cylinder today. $33.00

Still waiting on the engine shop. They were swamped when I dropped it off. The economy wasn't nice to the machinists up here. But the remaining ones are now very busy and I guess thats good for them.

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Progress report.
So Master cylinder has been put on. Did some minor wiring. Working on the the grille today.
Still waiting to hear back from the engine shop. Will post sime grille repair photos when completed.

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I have a similar trans shifting issue. I was told it is the nature of the beast. Been that way for years. What engine shop are you using?
 
Speedy Auto Machine out of Newmarket Ontario.

Grille almost done :)
Black on black

I'm using another members method of driving. Manual into first. Stay there in parking lots and stop and go traffic rpm's permitting. Only seems to thunk when warmed up. When shes cool its fine.

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Been a bit since I posted. Still collecting my parts. Did finish the tach mount that a member sold me from the forum and also finished the grille also sourced from this forum and it's members.
Now who has a 440 to 727 kick down thats not plated in gold!

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I think i have a kick down laying around for a 440 to 727.I have a bunch laying around i juts dont know which is which.Anybody have any pics.You can pretty much have it.im heading up the Barrie way on the long weekend.
 
Found this online. This looks correct.
Appreciate the help.

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So I got my mounts for the engine and the washer that is built into the nut has split in two. Anyone know where I can get a new one our a set. Just need the nut/washer combo really. Or........ Can I just use a hardened nut and same size hardened washer?? Don't really see the need for an exact replacement. I leave it to you the experts.
"1973 up spool mount"

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Lookin' good-I dig it!

As for the hardware, you can probably pick up the correct one from a local Fastenal or bolt supply warehouse. If not, I'd just go for at least grade 5 hardware, and because I'm sometimes a fan of overkill, you could just go grade 8 hardware with appropriately sized flat washers from Ace or Lowes...
 
Been awhile since I posted. Picking up the block today. Will start my build throughout the fall/winter/spring
Will have a list of what's been done to it and I'll be looking for suggestions along the way.

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Jus a quick question about disc brake conversions. I've seen the sticky and get the concept but have a few more questions.
71 > 73-76 disc
The parts I have so far are:
Spindles *2
Backing plates *2
Valve *1
I'll buy the calipers pads lines and rotors from the part store.
I still need to find some upper control arms.
I'm using a 1973 direct connection BB k frame with spool mount engine mounts.
My questions are. Do I now need to buy a new steering box? If so will it mate with my steering colum? I'm guessing I'll need the 73 pitman? Is there anything else I'm missing here? A straight swap would have been txt book but seeing how I'm pulling the 71 /6 k frame and installing the 73 DC big block spool mount k frame things may:are different now.
Advice? Thoughts? help

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