Slow build 71 Scamp 440

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Rear end completed. I forgot to tell the rebuilder to do the housing up. Don't omit this or they'll just wire brush it. But its no trailer queen anyway. I'll be mounting this to the housing once I get a hand lifting it in. Question of the day..... Gasket, gasket and RTV or just RTV. I'm thinking on just RTV as per the rebuilder.

Stay tuned for more over the winter updates.

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Well today I assembled the rear end and we made a little mistakey. Not sure how big of one but I may just leave it.
So it was brought on by the 73 repair manual. it didn't show the copper washers in the schematic. So naturally I didn't use them there and thought they were for the axles and backing plates. oops. So I used a generous amount of RTV on the centre section and installed. Torqued to 45LB. Moved onto the axles and installed the washers there torqued to 35LB. :BangHead: So I'm not too concerned about not using them on the centre housing as I see lots of post saying there not needed when using RTV. I'm concerned about using them on the axle retainer bolts. They look sharp though. lol Anyway if anyone sees a problem with them installed there please let me know by spring! hahaha Photo time. Drums on route.

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Well I think its time to start thinking engine build and acquiring parts and options. The suggestion box is open folks.

I'm looking for 500+ HP with a beautiful rumble and I think it should be fairly easy to achieve.
I started this engine many moons ago as you can see from the post when the block was done. I said I would if possible buy used parts and old stock from this group. So if you have usable stuff for the build chime in!

Here's where we're sitting with parts.

Block is a 440 punched 30 over with a minor deck to straighten it up. Torque plate was used.
Crank I believe is cast. 10/10 machining.
Pistons KB-237's used and in great shape mounted to LY rods. Thanks @oldkimmer
I have 452 heads that will need a complete overhaul. Not sure its worth it. After marked heads abound.
Intake is an M1 and sitting on that will be a rebuilt Demon 750.
187 pan for the install into the Scamp.
Direct Connection A-body BB K member
Spool mounts
TTI A-body ceramic coated headers
*Gears 3.55 SG

What's needed:
Cam Thinking Hughes Whiplash Part#SMC3245BL
Timing set also Hughes Part#6427
Bearings Any suggestions? Tri metal?
Heads? With suggestions on chamber size.
Gaskets What's the pro's using?
Oil pump?
Compression ratio? (9:1 or 10.5:1)

This will be all mated to a BB 727 that I'm going to teach myself how to rebuild. Cope Racing parts look like a good option. The billet drum anyways.

What do you all think?
 
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I'd recommend a stock oil pump with the 187 pan. HV pump would need more oil pan capacity in my opinion.
 
Clevite grooved bearings, keep compression about 10:1 w/cast heads. 290ish advertised duration cam .450ish lift, min 2500 stall converter with 3:73 gears. 65'
 
Full or half groove Clevite bearings. Not sure of 0.010 over part number. 65'
 
Skeeter007 said:
Well I think its time to start think engine build and acquiring parts and options. The suggestion box is open folks.

I'm looking for 500+ HP with a beautiful rumble and I think it should be fairly easy to achieve.
I started this engine many moons ago as you can see from the post when the block was done. I said I would if possible buy used parts and old stock from this group. So if you have usable stuff for the build chime in!

Here's where we're sitting with parts.

Block is a 440 punched 30 over with a minor deck to straighten it up. Torque plate was used.
Crank I believe is cast. 10/10 machining.
Pistons KB-237's used and in great shape mounted to LY rods. Thanks @oldkimmer
I have 452 heads that will need a complete overhaul. Not sure its worth it. After marked heads abound.
Intake is an M1 and sitting on that will be a rebuilt Demon 750.
187 pan for the install into the Scamp.
Direct Connection A-body BB K member
Spool mounts
TTI A-body ceramic coated headers
*Gears 3.55 SG

What's needed:
Cam Thinking Hughes Whiplash Part#SMC3245BL
Timing set also Hughes Part#6427
Bearings Any suggestions? Tri metal?
Heads? With suggestions on chamber size.
Gaskets What's the pro's using?
Oil pump?
Compression ratio? (9:1 or 10.5:1)

This will be all mated to a BB 727 that I'm going to teach myself how to rebuild. Cope Racing parts look like a good option. The billet drum anyways.

What do you all think?
Click to expand...
How far are you from Washington state?
You need a bolt in sprag, that failure is what causes the front drum to explode.
That cam seems awfully small but it might make your goal, definitely will make a lot of torque for sure.
Are you going to race the car or just want it to sound cool when going out on the town?
For heads, if you're not thinking drag racing just buy some damn 440 source stealth heads. They're cheap but are less than what you'd pay to have factory heads built to same spec & you'll lose 40 pounds off the nose of the car.
 
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MOPARMAGA said:
How far are you from Washington state?
You need a bolt in sprag, that failure is what causes the front drum to explode.
That cam seems awfully small but it might make your goal, definitely will make a lot of torque for sure.
Are you going to race the car or just want it to sound cool when going out on the town?
For heads, if you're not thinking drag racing just buy some damn 440 source stealth heads. They're cheap but are less than what you'd pay to have factory heads built to same spec & you'll lose 40 pounds off the nose of the car.
Click to expand...
I'm in Ontario Canada. I do frequent Victoria BC quiet a bit. No racing, just looking for a mean street machine not to say I wouldn't take the opportunity to run down the strip once or twice. Definitely need that nice sounding cam. Do you have recommendation on the cam? Those heads are very affordable. wow. Id be very happy at 550hp in a Scamp!
 
Skeeter007 said:
I'm in Ontario Canada. I do frequent Victoria BC quiet a bit. No racing, just looking for a mean street machine not to say I wouldn't take the opportunity to run down the strip once or twice. Definitely need that nice sounding cam. Do you have recommendation on the cam? Those heads are very affordable. wow. Id be very happy at 550hp in a Scamp!
Click to expand...
I would call up Hughes and ask them about the cam however you will want to be sure on your direction of build. Do you have to run a hydraulic cam ? I like solid flat tappet Hughes and Howard's cams have really great selection of Mopar specific. I think a 244-244 sft from Howard's would be awesome if you're running 10.5 compression.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I would call up Hughes and ask them about the cam however you will want to be sure on your direction of build. Do you have to run a hydraulic cam ? I like solid flat tappet Hughes and Howard's cams have really great selection of Mopar specific. I think a 244-244 sft from Howard's would be awesome if you're running 10.5 compression.
Click to expand...

I just came across sidewinder heads! Wow the price! Going to look into them. Also Hughes gave me that cam part number as the one to go. I'll revisit that again as I changed the rear to a 3:55 from 3:73. So I'n sure that will change up the cam a bit.
 
Skeeter007 said:
I just came across sidewinder heads! Wow the price! Going to look into them. Also Hughes gave me that cam part number as the one to go. I'll revisit that again as I changed the rear to a 3:55 from 3:73. So I'n sure that will change up the cam a bit.
Click to expand...
I think that cam would even work with 3.23 gears.
 
Today I gathered the rotating assembly parts to get them ready for the machinist. I'll bring them over in the New Year to get them balanced. Crank, flex plate, rods, rod bearings, pistons and rings. Then hopefully I can get the short block started and completed before spring. :thumbsup:
 
***** Solved! So interesting problem today. I picked up some hardware for the crank and the crank bolt won't fit.
When I try to thread it in it just won't take and gets jammed. This is by hand though. I don't want
to add any torque to it until I consult with you guys. The threads on the bolt seem to be nice and
uniform. The crank threads I can't get a good read on but obviously there is a problem. I'm thinking
I need to chase the threads in the crank shaft. Or do I put a little elbow grease into it with a socket
and ratchet?

Description from the seller.
Reproduction Harmonic Balancer to Crankshaft Bolt and Washer Hardware Package for all 58-79 Big Block Engines only. Made to OEM Specs with “NO” Markings as Per Originals. Made in the USA.

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This is how a good community operates. Although not new anymore I and other still come up against problems and the good folks here dole out the information and experience. As this is my first 440 engine build I'll be back with more noob engine build questions. Thanks again!


Ok thanks guys. I wanted to check with you guys before I started any procedure. I took advice of both of you and chased the threads and used a little lube. Wire brushed the bolt. Then worked the bolt in with some lube. I worked the bolt in and out till it was fully seated. Looks like there was a lot of material caught in the threads of the crank that wasn't visible. Thanks guys.
 
Small update. Last piece of the 8 3/4 puzzle arrived. Pinion snubber! Will install today!
No word back from the machine shop yet on the balance. Shouldn’t be long now.

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