So basically that shows you that it helped to widen the pinch up to .500 and hurt after that. Who would have thought that would happen. That bolt bulge sure is ugly.
Not the craziest of gains but if you buying bare heads, and planned on getting a valve job anyways this mod will get you what like 20 hp ? On a decent engine, what extra cost would be over buying 2.02" and getting a decent VJ ?
Throat is now 1.825 wide and 1.831 deep for an average of 1.828 which is 89% of the 2.055 valve.Did you measure what the throat diameter percentage is now ?
I'm curious to know why you ask. Care to elaborate?Are you using A sized cutters or B?
I'm fabricating a 5" long 2% tapered intake entry plate that will act like a perfectly straight intake manifold runner. I want to test the pushrod pinch changes with a different entry plate. I hate the phrase but I'll use it here. What if the flow bench is lying to us? With a short entry plate we basically have a venturi right at the port entry. That could do weird things and certainly different things than in a running engine.
Here's a picture where I was trying to focus the camera on the head bolt intrusion. The entry plate is 3/4" thick with a 3/4" round over.Can you show us what entry plate you are using.
Wonder if you have to much airspeed over the short turn now, especially with the pushrod pinch opened up. I'd bet adding width to the short turn might help?Here's results of taking the pushrod pinch to 0.950" wide and smoothing the entire entry. This took about 10-15 minutes using a 1/2" diameter 36 grit cartridge roll.
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You are absolutely right. Our objective with this post is to keep the modifications to simple things that most people could do on their own, with the exception of a professional valve job. Short turn modifications are beyond the capabilities of most. Ultimately this post might end up there.Wonder if you have to much airspeed over the short turn now, especially with the pushrod pinch opened up. I'd bet adding width to the short turn might help?
That would be my assumption.Wonder if you have to much airspeed over the short turn now, especially with the pushrod pinch opened up. I'd bet adding width to the short turn might help?
Wonder if you have to much airspeed over the short turn now, especially with the pushrod pinch opened up. I'd bet adding width to the short turn might help?
I'm fabricating a 5" long 2% tapered intake entry plate that will act like a perfectly straight intake manifold runner. I want to test the pushrod pinch changes with a different entry plate. I hate the phrase but I'll use it here. What if the flow bench is lying to us? With a short entry plate we basically have a venturi right at the port entry. That could do weird things and certainly different things than in a running engine.
What port height do you get out of them ?My pinch on the first head after tubing is 1.015
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How close to straight can you get the common wall without tubing the head bolt?Ok just working the common wall for five minutes I gained .030 the length of the pinch. That’s a nice gain and I’m no where done. Just working down some of the bolt bulge look how much short turn area I gained already and I didn’t tube them yet. My thinnest area at the pinch is from .062-.118 so I wouldn’t push that .950 number unless you are tubing everything. But like I said don’t touch the common wall till you have your .950 so you can pick up another.030 like I just did.
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How close to straight can you get the common wall without tubing the head bolt?
What port height do you get out of them ?
Earlie A posted stock pinch height as 2.08"
2.08" x 0.95" = 1.98"
1.98" x 1,100,000 / cid = rpm, 367 = 5,935 rpm, 408 = 5,338 rpm
2.08" x 1.015" = 2.11"
367 = 6,324 rpm, 408 = 5,689 rpm
Dude you have to work the chamber wall, especially when you go to a larger valve! The pinch won't show you anything until you unlock seat area (bottom of the valve job to the deck).Here's some before and after pictures of the bowl blend. This took about 2 minutes using a 60 grit 1" diameter cartridge roll. In the before pictures, the black ring is the 45 degree seat, the red is the 60 degree bottom cut and the purple lines are the blend zone which includes the 70 degree bottom cut. The 2 blue rings perpendicular to the purple lines are the ridges to be removed. A couple of casting lines down the sides of the bowl were also smoothed out.
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Thanks for the nugget. I always appreciate the input and welcome the advice.Dude you have to work the chamber wall, especially when you go to a larger valve! The pinch won't show you anything until you unlock seat area (bottom of the valve job to the deck).