small block engine mounting

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abdywgn

abdywgn

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Does anybody have any comments on mounting a 360 using aluminum plate like Hot Rod did with their lightened Duster?I'm not concerned about vibration or noise issues.Looking for ideas and if anybody would share some pictures of their engine plates/brackets.Not looking to mount the engine between the water pump/front cover area.Thanks for any and all help!Bob
 
If this is going to be an all out race car, not a problem. If it's meant to be a mostly street driven machine, then I think it would be a lot cheaper and a lot more friendly with the stock type mounts.
 
Thanks for the reply.It will be a street driven vehicle that gets taken to the track now and then.I'm not interested in a more street friendly mounting system.Both of my 340 Darts with 4-speeds had Moroso solid insulators.I had no problem with them even driven everyday.Thanks again for your opinion!Bob
 
abdywgn said:
Thanks for the reply.It will be a street driven vehicle that gets taken to the track now and then.I'm not interested in a more street friendly mounting system.Both of my 340 Darts with 4-speeds had Moroso solid insulators.I had no problem with them even driven everyday.Thanks again for your opinion!Bob
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I bet there is two things you don't have.. false teeth and gall stones! j/k
 
I have a plate sandwiched between the water pump and timing cover on the last ET bracket Challenger with a 2x3 frame. I was concerned about leaks, but never had any. I did use 4 long studs in addition to the regular, but longer, bolts on the other holes. I also ran a mid-mount for additional support because it was a longer distance between the plate and trans mount. In a catastophic trans failure, it would be possible for the trans and rear of the engine to drop and drag or dig into the ground.

Mounting a plate elsewhere will be a custom fab because nobody makes such a plate system that I know of.

The biggest problem will be accessory mounting/alignment, including alternator and water pump pulleys. (It would help to have a electric pump like a Meziere.)

The second problem would be to fabricate a fore-aft limiter because the engine/trans WILL move back & forth at least an inch or two, depending on the situation. That can cause problems with the radiator as well as bottoming out the driveshaft in the trans. That movement will eventually crack the plate.

I'm happy with my spool mounts and torque strap on my '75 Dart Sport. If I ever get my other car done, which has the sandwich mounts, I'll be using the mounts with interlocking tabs that prevent seperation as well as a strap again.


Why all the extra work for an uncommon set-up?
 
Use the solid mount on drivers side mount. Its the one that takes all the abuse and go rubber on passenger sideand use a stiff poly trans mount. Not bad as it can flex some but spot on reaction time as no slackon torque side.
 
Locomotion,thanks for your experience with the mounting plate.Pulley alignment was one reason for using plate from the ears on the engine block.I had thought about the fore-n-aft movement because it will be a 4-spd car.I had not thought about the dropping issue.I would hope that not be the case with a scattershield and possibly aluminum speeder.But never say never.Maybe a cable under the back of the engine,frame rail-to-frame rail would take care of that.And in a stock application I would use the factory mounts.
daredevil,that would be a good combo for an automatic and street driven 4-speed,IMO.I just did not want to take any chances with parts coming undone and the engine shifting around.Makes gear changes difficult.
Any other ideas?Especially on the fore-n-aft engine movement?Strut type rods to the frame from the front of the engine?Bob
 
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