Small block headers: worst to best fitting. List your experience.

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migsBIG

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Seems to be a lot of different headers for diffrent small block LA/Magnum 1967-1976 A-bodies and not enough info to go around. If someone has had good/bad experience while installing headers sets with certain options (like power steering, aluminum heads, rack-pinion, etc), maybe we can list it here so everyone can post how it went so others can see their struggles or accomplishments. Part numbers and pics would go along ways to helping some members.
 
The hands down best fitting headers I ever installed Ford, Chevy, Mopar or anything else was the set of Dougs Headers I put on my 65 Valiant with a 360. I followed their instructions, used the Schumacher slant 6 to V8 mounts and they fit like a glove. No contact anywhere. I even used the slant 6 center link and it didn't contact the oil pan.
 
I would say that Doug's 453 might be the best small block headers for a bodies on the market. They hug the block (I believe they require mini-starter) and I think they work with both power steering boxes. Other than that, most other sets I have seen from cheap to expensive have either the #1 or #3 exhaust pipe going up and over the other cylinders and then back down next to #7. I'm not a huge fan of this design because it gets in the way of the spark plugs. Another thing to note is that most "wrap" around the steering linkage under the car meaning the center link needs to come out if you ever want to swap headers. This also causes them to hang low under the car.
My car came with no-name headers and I know what I don't like about them (listed) and when they bite the dust I made up my mind years ago that I will replace them with the Doug's headers personally

P.S. I saw these on an a body at a car show and I grabbed some pics because I was so impressed at how they fit

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Best fitting headers in the standard 1-5/8 tube size is

Summit Racing - then a tie between
Hooker and the non standard and expensive TTI stepped header.
Hedman was also very good.

Everything else sucked *** and needed to meet my adjuster, Mr. S Hammer Jr.. Mr. Sledge is a good friend of mine. I met him during a concrete job I had. He introduced me to his son. A nice, but small fella I call pocket Hercules. He always persuades items (headers) that think there tough. I’ve only had to call his Dad once. (Not a header job.)
 
These are TTI step headers. No dings or dents. Fit very nice and as intended. The only grinding I had to do was to accommodate the magnum 360 block. I do however recommend making sure the motor is in the factory recommended position and/or as listed by TTI in the instructions.

I literally cut hooker headers out of this engine bay with a Sawzall before painting the engine bay, motor, refreshing everything else, and then installing these TTI’s. I don’t think I would even try anything else. I did in the past used to look at Doug’s 453’s and think they would be okay, but now that the price on those has gone up a lot (almost the same as tti’s) I probably won’t deviate from tti.

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Two sets of TTi's on two different a bodies, both 360 LA/727 combos, both power steering cars. Followed TTi's instructions to the letter, zero problems. One set of Hedman on a 73 Dart 360LA/904 combo, nothing but grief and aggravation, never again.
 
Great info. Thanks for posting everyone. Hope more chime in with their experience's.
 
Hands down the best fitting headers I've ever installed took 40 seconds to hang both sides.

OOOoops, you wanted A-body and that was a B-body. Sorry
 
Hands down the best fitting headers I've ever installed took 40 seconds to hang both sides.

OOOoops, you wanted A-body and that was a B-body. Sorry

I've not installed TTI's (headers) on a A-body, but Doug's have been the best fitting header I've installed on a Duster. :)
 
I've been installing headers since the 60's.
The 4 yr apprenticeship seemed to be an endless chain of 4 barrel manifolds, 3/4 race cams, headers, and 4:11 gears.
Ive installed most brand headers into most breeds of cars, and an A-Body Dodge is a piece of cake compared to some other vehicles .
The older design, generic cyclone, hedman, blackjack, yada yada design, with tubes below the streering gear were often damaged.
Ground clearance was an issue, especially if the vehicle was lowered.
The modern TTI and Doug's are a very similar block hugger design, better ground clearance, no low hanging tubes, and easy access to spark plugs.
I started installing TTIs in the 90's and they were a great improvement over the earlier design. TTI had some rust issues 2000 ish, and trying to warranty from Canada was absurd.
I changed to Doug's, and have installed prob close to 20 sets.
The early sets needed "adjustment" to a lesser degree than previous designs, and have gotten even better in the last few years.
I won't install any other brand now, no need.
TTI and Doug's are both excellent, I feel the Doug's to be a better quality, and dollar value, - especially when on sale .
Good luck, . - jmo
 
The OP needs to define “fit”.

If you have a one piece header it’s probably not a good header.

Best fitting headers:

Hooker 5303 (can’t buy them any more but it’s still the best all around production head header there is.

Hooker 5204 (can’t get these any more either) but this is the best header for 340-360 inch almost stock engines.

Anything else is just a pain in the ***. Do they go on easy? Nope. But when they are on they fit and they work.

Not a TTi fan.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I hear people talk headers, but not everyone get needed info for their own projects. Knowing that current Doug’s and TTi offer the easiest for driving street cars is great. If someone also has some experience with race heads, good or bad, let us know what you though of those to.

Newbomb Turk, thanks for sharing your experience, as well as the others. Hopefully we can get enough people to response with their own experiences when dealing with headers.
 
Did you ever buy a set of Hooker race headers or their low end headers for cheap asses.

There is a difference.
Why should there be a difference?
I’d never deal with a company that says ohhh sorry if you want ones that fit you have to pay more. Otherwise you’re stuck with our crappy fitting, linkage must travel through, hard as heck to install, guaranteed to rust, will totally melt your spark plug wire boots, low hanging crap….

I agree with anyone who says Hooker headers suck for mopar. If you’re going to make a header, make one that fits.
 
The OP needs to define “fit”.

If you have a one piece header it’s probably not a good header.

Best fitting headers:

Hooker 5303 (can’t buy them any more but it’s still the best all around production head header there is.

Hooker 5204 (can’t get these any more either) but this is the best header for 340-360 inch almost stock engines.

Anything else is just a pain in the ***. Do they go on easy? Nope. But when they are on they fit and they work.

Not a TTi fan.

The 5303 had the #1 tube go straight down thru the "Y" gap in the k-frame, then went under the k and steering gear.
Was first header I bought for the Dart from the Mopar Parts counter, kept warranty too.
Was one of the first 3 things the Hustle Catalog suggested for improvement.
 
Why should there be a difference?
I’d never deal with a company that says ohhh sorry if you want ones that fit you have to pay more. Otherwise you’re stuck with our crappy fitting, linkage must travel through, hard as heck to install, guaranteed to rust, will totally melt your spark plug wire boots, low hanging crap….

I agree with anyone who says Hooker headers suck for mopar. If you’re going to make a header, make one that fits.

Because there is a HUGE difference in the fit of a set of 1200 dollar headers compared to a set of 500 dollar headers.

A good race header isn’t the same as a street header.

You are talking right out of your hat.
 
The 5303 had the #1 tube go straight down thru the "Y" gap in the k-frame, then went under the k and steering gear.
Was first header I bought for the Dart from the Mopar Parts counter, kept warranty too.


No, you didn’t have a set of 5303 Hookers.

You had the 5204 header which is a street header.

I never had a set of them that didn’t fit and fit well.
 
Because there is a HUGE difference in the fit of a set of 1200 dollar headers compared to a set of 500 dollar headers.

A good race header isn’t the same as a street header.

You are talking right out of your hat.
You don’t know nor can you assume you know what I’m talking about, what motors or cars I run, what headers I’ve had and haven’t had. You seem to love to disagree with everyone all the time.

I respectfully disagree with your opinion. You’ll probably find MOST people will and have already agreed with mine.

You often refer to race application. 99 percent,of the people here don’t fall into that category.

Have a great week.
 
You don’t know nor can you assume you know what I’m talking about, what motors or cars I run, what headers I’ve had and haven’t had. You seem to love to disagree with everyone all the time.

I respectfully disagree with your opinion. You’ll probably find MOST people will and have already agreed with mine.

You often refer to race application. 99 percent,of the people here don’t fall into that category.

Have a great week.

I can assume by you post you don’t get it.

If you think a race header can’t be used on the street you don’t know what you don’t know.

Never assume I don’t have at least as much experience as you. Maybe more.

I’d pay for a good set of Hookers before I would run a free set of Doug’s, TTI or any other brand. With the exception of the place up in Massachusetts. And I can’t think of the name of that place right now.

Good headers cost more. Hooker had to have the economy line of junk **** headers to compete with Hedman, Blackjack, Appliance and a whole host of garbage fitting and power killing headers.

There is a lot of bullshit posted on these forums. I call it out. I couldn’t care less if you like it or not.
 
And on that note, my Nickle-plated TTI's fit pretty good.
360/A833, p/s, pdb, 68 Barracuda with a 70 Duster K, and 73 steering, on the 70 biscuits with the spool mount at the back.
Initially, I used the Mopar starter, but when it died, I switched to the Dakota ministarter. and I do not use the 90* filter adapter, opting for a short filter instead.
But ya gotta know, to get the driver's side in the first time, dropped the steering, took the hood off, and hung the engine from a big tree in my backyard. I just pushed the engine over and dropped the header in. I mean there were these two big nuts just starring me in the face........... .
The headers even cleared my Milodon road-race oilpan.
To be truthful tho; I had to raise the engine up a tad so that the steering arms could pass under, and I cut-off the excess stud, leaving just enough to hold the cotter pins, and when I was done, I put a small dent in each tube for good measure.
I remember putting another ding in it somewhere, just to eliminate the possibility of a rattle but I forget where, probably to fit that big starter.......
Further to being truthful; this car was my 4-seasons DD for over 6 years. After the 5th or 6th winter, the driver's side merge had rusted thru on top where the salt collects. A patched it up. A year or two later, the passenger side followed. In about the 10th year, they both let go again, in the same general area. I haven't fixed it yet, cuz she hasn't been a DD since ~2005 or 6, and it's hardly noticeable.
To anyone that wants to know, the steering box is only held on by three bolts, and the pitman arm pops right off with the right pulling-tool. I mean, guys ***** and moan about no room, but the box goes right back in after the header is bolted on.
Oh, and the column only has a few small bolts holding it up.............
 
Hooker vintage slip tube race headers rock!!!!!!! 1 7/8 primaries...easy install and no tube through the fenderwell

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