Small block intake

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One thing about a 20 pound intake vs a 40 plus pound chunk of iron, though. It's a whole lot easier on your back when it comes time to install it.
 
I'm trying to remember
that's a 72 c body wagon so the front end is like my 73 new yorker
(tke 73 big wagon had B body front end and c body back end)
so chassis any up to 78 c body cop or tow pckage parts
the t bars are 1.08 instead of the .98 you have makes a big difference
sway bar would ave to be ftermarket if you want to go bigger
cordoba rear sway woks-you need the spring plates and you can add a leaf
 
BLIMP said:
Wow guys I'm truly overwhelmed at the information posted up so quickly, thanks a bunch. I'm on break at work now, when I'm home I'll go back and try to digest what's been said.
I know this is an A body site, but I figured here would be the best place to find the knowledge about LA engines. I do have a factory cast iron 4bbl intake and a thermoquad from the early 70s I could use, but the thought of dropping a few pounds appealed to me. This 1972 Monaco is 100% stock 360/2bbl/727/8.75. At this time some simple bolt ons to enhance power without sacrificing mileage is the goal, as it's mainly highway driven.
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love that wagon , hope you get it running the way you want . Great car , you don't see many that is for sure . so much better than a mini van . with a few modifications it will be the ultimate highway cruiser . what kind of mpg is it getting now ?
 
Everyone has covered it so it depends on your budget.

*Free flowing exhaust with 2.25 pipes.H pipe if you care.long case dynomax super turbo mufflers give a nice rumble but run what you like.

*Ignition upgrade of some sort and tune the distributor advance.Likely more initial and make sure the vacuum advance works.

* Run whatever 4 bbl intake and carb you prefer.A dual snorkel intake is a plus.Run some ducting to a cooler air source.
I just did a used Performer intake on my truck 360.

*Anything you do beyond that is up to time and money.These mods will support whatever you do later.
 
2.25 exhaust pipe?

Screw that! 2-1/2, H or X.

Longer the muffler the quieter the exhaust note in the cabin and out the rear.
 
I used 440 Imperial/ new yorker mufflers on mine
I also like the 36 inch long motorhome turbo muffler- thats oal -shell is shorter -2.5 in and out
 
Another option; keep the 2 bbl. It's good for up to ~3,000 rpm. At 70 mph you're only revving at about 2,300 rpm. The first thing to do is to replace the timing gears. The nylon gear your car came with usually lasts about 100,000 miles or a little more. If the teeth chip off it will skip a tooth or two and bend push rods and valves. How do I know this? Yep. Someone mentioned retarding the cam timing. Never tried it but it should work. More power. [Those were bad years for emissions = detuning engine power].

Next thing to check is the heat riser valve on the pass. side exhaust manifold. It must move freely.

If you have an EGR valve, you can try it with it or without it by disconnecting and plugging a hose.

Distributor modifications can be made.

Your car weighs over 5,000 lbs. with 3 passengers. It's a lead sled, and the 360's working hard. Someone mentioned 3.23 rear gears. A good choice for that car. And probably wouldn't change the mileage much.

Happy Motoring
 
B'cuda said:
IMHO, For your application I would think a stock 340 intake with a stock or edelbrock spreadbore carb is what your looking for, but you did say aluminum.....
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I agree a stock one works fine and is cheap. TQ does work nice 71 up manifold and do block off the heat riser. Or you can use a earlier one with a avs carb. (eddy ) or a small holley. If your going to be running 70 I'd leave in the 2.76's for fuel economy. If you ever want to wake it up remove and cut the heads that 360 has no compression. And second as a stocker just put the stock 340 cam in it. It will run real nice.
 
I think I'm going to go with this stock piece. Initially was thinking aluminum because I'd be able to save a few pounds. But like a few people mentioned, when this things weighs more than 2 tons, what difference does it make. And a shot of the engine bay.
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crackedback said:
Performer 318/360 intake would be just fine for that deal. It gets a really bad undeserved rap, but they are also easy to find and cheap because of it. If you massage the port opening a little bit, it runs REALLY close to a RPM intake... For the car in question, run it out of the box!
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I agree. I think it would be perfect.
 
northern Il
I'd not block off the heat riser
340 cam kills your dynamic compression and mileage in a low compression motor and not in a heavy vehicle with tall gears
I would not use one if it was free
 
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