I have one more thing I'm going to try. This was a cut to fit liner. I used my knife to remove any burrs on the cut, but I'm going to try some welding tip cleaners and see if it has any burrs I missed.
Snap On MW120 MIG Welder
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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I know that. I said it already. All I was doing was using it for diagnostic purposes.
I am very familiar with this exact welder, as I have used it a good bit in the past. It's welded great with .023, .026, .035 and .045 in the past, all with my own hand. Kirk said he assumed it was the liner because the last time it did this a new one fixed it. I may try a whole new gun on it. Although I cannot see how the sheath of the gun could cause binding in the liner since the liner is coiled steel.
I’ve experienced a shortage of small spool wire locally.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Or maybe it’s still a little long.
I seem to remember that. I think it was something electrical on his.
I cut it to the exact length as the one I removed, but I thought about that. I'll look at it a little closer and see.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Made sure the new one is exactly the same as the one that was the initial problem, yeah, there may be a flaw in that logic
Like I said, I thought about that, but it welded great for years with the last liner. I'm going talk with my local welding company tomorrow. It may need a whole new gun. But I'm going to try to file the opening where I cut it first and see what that does.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
I dont know what they are called, but there is a tool out there to debur pipes
It's a simple handle with a square Z shapes bit
It bevels the inside of the pipe
If you know what I'm talking about, that tool may do the trick
Burnish it with the wire. Drag it back and forth a baggilion times putting pressure 360 at the openings
I know this is an older model but beware, newer rigs are outfitted with metric thread tips.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
Probably too late for this, but I would get one for when you install your new liner.
If that's like a piece of foam, there's one already on it.
toplscuda
Well-Known Member
If you cannot feed the wire easily by hand through the liner that is the issue. The biggest mistake I see guys do when they install a liner is to try feeding it through the gun too fast with your hand too far away from the end of the gun. Once it gets to the curve of the neck they put a slight kink in it. Once it has even a slight kink the liner is junk. Pull it back out of the gun and lay it straight on the ground. If there is the slightest kink in it then you have discovered the issue.
To install a new liner. First remove the Tip and tip adapter. Then lay the gun out straight on the ground. Do not pre trim the length of the liner.
Grab the liner between your thumb and fore finger and start pushing it into to gun. Only grab the liner 1 inch back from the end of the gun. Once it gets to the curved neck it may want to hang up. If it does only put a little pressure on the liner and snap the gun so it flips around a bit. This will allow the liner to finish going through the neck. After you have it fed all the way through then lock it in with a little pressure from the set screw on the machine end. Then take your tip adapter and feed it onto the liner. Depending on the adapter some will feed all the way down and screw on the neck and some have a shoulder that stops it. It it feeds all the way through then see where the end is of the liner of you hold it next to the neck simulating it being screwed in all the way. Cut it there with a pair of side cutters. If it has a shoulder in the adapter then slide it on the liner and hold mark the outside of it so you know how far in the liner goes. Then hold it along side the neck and cut the liner at that point.
To install a new liner. First remove the Tip and tip adapter. Then lay the gun out straight on the ground. Do not pre trim the length of the liner.
Grab the liner between your thumb and fore finger and start pushing it into to gun. Only grab the liner 1 inch back from the end of the gun. Once it gets to the curved neck it may want to hang up. If it does only put a little pressure on the liner and snap the gun so it flips around a bit. This will allow the liner to finish going through the neck. After you have it fed all the way through then lock it in with a little pressure from the set screw on the machine end. Then take your tip adapter and feed it onto the liner. Depending on the adapter some will feed all the way down and screw on the neck and some have a shoulder that stops it. It it feeds all the way through then see where the end is of the liner of you hold it next to the neck simulating it being screwed in all the way. Cut it there with a pair of side cutters. If it has a shoulder in the adapter then slide it on the liner and hold mark the outside of it so you know how far in the liner goes. Then hold it along side the neck and cut the liner at that point.
When I bought my current miller mig I talked to the Mac and the snapon guys I had at the time.
The snapon guy was very informative about what they had at the time , gave me the name of the company that made them at the time for snap on and an "800-number" straight to that company. This was back in 97. Don't remember the name of that company.
The Mac guy said that theirs except for the cheapest bargain basement model were all made by miller and just painted Mac red instead of miller blue. I liked the idea of being able to have bought it at $20/week at the time but instead of that I went to a local welding supply house and talked to them. They had the same 4 welders that Mac was selling (except for paint color) and the comparable one that was closest in price to it's comparable model made for Mac was 1/2 of the price as Mac wanted. As you went bigger in the line, the price disparity got wider between Mac and the welding supply house.
I got the 3rd biggest in line at the welding place for what Mac was wanting for the smallest one in that line. (Which didn't include mac's cheapest one, started at miller's 2nd step up at the time) I had burnt out 2 110 powered machines to that point (the first of which was the Mac El cheapo that was below the line they sourced from miller, that is gotten from my previous Mac guy as a repo.
So because of that I decided I definitely didn't want a 110 machine,no way no how. So I got a millermatic 185. Which runs off of 220. I've replaced the liner once in all of those years, otherwise I have had absolutely no problem with it. I wish I'd have bought that one first, as I spent (wasted) more money on those two than my MM185 cost me. If I'd have waited like 10 years to get my own mig, (at the time I couldn't, I needed a welder) I'd go for something like a Lincoln 135 mig or a Hobart handler 140 Both 110 powered, and both more robust than my first 2 migs were.
And in case you didn't know, miller and Hobart welders are both owned by the same parent company.
The snapon guy was very informative about what they had at the time , gave me the name of the company that made them at the time for snap on and an "800-number" straight to that company. This was back in 97. Don't remember the name of that company.
The Mac guy said that theirs except for the cheapest bargain basement model were all made by miller and just painted Mac red instead of miller blue. I liked the idea of being able to have bought it at $20/week at the time but instead of that I went to a local welding supply house and talked to them. They had the same 4 welders that Mac was selling (except for paint color) and the comparable one that was closest in price to it's comparable model made for Mac was 1/2 of the price as Mac wanted. As you went bigger in the line, the price disparity got wider between Mac and the welding supply house.
I got the 3rd biggest in line at the welding place for what Mac was wanting for the smallest one in that line. (Which didn't include mac's cheapest one, started at miller's 2nd step up at the time) I had burnt out 2 110 powered machines to that point (the first of which was the Mac El cheapo that was below the line they sourced from miller, that is gotten from my previous Mac guy as a repo.
So because of that I decided I definitely didn't want a 110 machine,no way no how. So I got a millermatic 185. Which runs off of 220. I've replaced the liner once in all of those years, otherwise I have had absolutely no problem with it. I wish I'd have bought that one first, as I spent (wasted) more money on those two than my MM185 cost me. If I'd have waited like 10 years to get my own mig, (at the time I couldn't, I needed a welder) I'd go for something like a Lincoln 135 mig or a Hobart handler 140 Both 110 powered, and both more robust than my first 2 migs were.
And in case you didn't know, miller and Hobart welders are both owned by the same parent company.
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My first mig on which I'd gotten from the Mac guy, I found out was the same as the first "homeowner grade" mig I used to see in the ad section of popular mechanics magazine for something like $129. I didn't know that at the time I bought it.
The Mac man that is gotten that one from, had made such a huge deal about it coming with the "extra cost" gas bottle kit. That welder was actually made by astro as a used, "repo special" I paid something like $650 for it, back around 1991/92ish.
. When I first got my current job 10 years ago, the 1st location I worked at for them had one as their "shop welder". It did exhaust work ok, in it's highest setting but luckily I didn't need it much.
My 2nd one was something by century, found at a garage sale a Grandpa had bought his grandsons after he found out they were in "welding class" at the local high school. He thought he was doing something great for them but they only ever used it like twice since new and lost interest. That was about 1994ish.
Had to do some utility trailer work, (small repairs each time on different trailers) and burnt out one of those welders on each trailer job...
When I bought my miller 185 I was starting on a trailer I built from scratch. I have since built a 2nd one from scratch with that same miller 185 and a whole lot more in the years since and never an issue. I'm about to get into a pretty big D150 bodywork project and Im wondering if this miller might be "too" big. I've never tried to run anything smaller than 0.030 in this machine. Usually since I've had it, as it is now, it's loaded with 0.035. I can't believe what the cost of mig wire has done and most I find is Chinese to boot.
I have a buddy who's a retired welding teacher, who told me at one time "not to buy wire, he has more than he'll ever use" now that he's retired, but I know some of what he has is pretty old now.... And I've had plenty of problems over the years caused by running old wire.
The Mac man that is gotten that one from, had made such a huge deal about it coming with the "extra cost" gas bottle kit. That welder was actually made by astro as a used, "repo special" I paid something like $650 for it, back around 1991/92ish.
. When I first got my current job 10 years ago, the 1st location I worked at for them had one as their "shop welder". It did exhaust work ok, in it's highest setting but luckily I didn't need it much.
My 2nd one was something by century, found at a garage sale a Grandpa had bought his grandsons after he found out they were in "welding class" at the local high school. He thought he was doing something great for them but they only ever used it like twice since new and lost interest. That was about 1994ish.
Had to do some utility trailer work, (small repairs each time on different trailers) and burnt out one of those welders on each trailer job...
When I bought my miller 185 I was starting on a trailer I built from scratch. I have since built a 2nd one from scratch with that same miller 185 and a whole lot more in the years since and never an issue. I'm about to get into a pretty big D150 bodywork project and Im wondering if this miller might be "too" big. I've never tried to run anything smaller than 0.030 in this machine. Usually since I've had it, as it is now, it's loaded with 0.035. I can't believe what the cost of mig wire has done and most I find is Chinese to boot.
I have a buddy who's a retired welding teacher, who told me at one time "not to buy wire, he has more than he'll ever use" now that he's retired, but I know some of what he has is pretty old now.... And I've had plenty of problems over the years caused by running old wire.
Steve welder
Well-Known Member
There is no way no how a 120 volt MIG welder will make a proper weld using .045 solid wire.
In fact .035 wire is way to much for a 120 volt MIG welder
Trying to use that larger diameter wire in those machines will result in a "cold" weld that has no penetration
People look a the bead, think it looks good (it doesn't) and think they made a sound weld.
Just wanted to back up your posts and the only reason I replied
Steve welder
Well-Known Member
When the wire is "bird nesting " it can be a few things such as the cable liner which is a specific size for the wire is one as is the proper size contact tip.
Is the drive roller the right diameter for the wire? Is the wire rusty ? Is there to tight bends in the cable to the gun? The other issue is improper tension on the MIG wire spool
035 wire is to much for a 120 volt mig machine. There is not enough amperage and that could be a problem as well
Is the drive roller the right diameter for the wire? Is the wire rusty ? Is there to tight bends in the cable to the gun? The other issue is improper tension on the MIG wire spool
035 wire is to much for a 120 volt mig machine. There is not enough amperage and that could be a problem as well
0.035 wire is too much for SOME 110v machines I wouldn't say all. The 110v machines out now (at least those made by well known established welding machine companies) are better than what 110v machines used to be.
Look, what yall are not getting is this machine has laid a great looking bead with .045 before. Whether or not it had proper penetration remains to be seen. What I am saying now is it will not even attempt to lay a bead with the .035 wire in it now. It just sputters and turns the wire red. I understand what yall are saying and possibly agree, but something is ******* WRONG with the machine OTHER than having too big a diameter wire. Got it?
Transformer is too small
Just thinking here, some wire feeds have the ability to reverse the polarity. Puts more heat on the work instead of wire.
For aluminum
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