Sniper pink wire

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haywire05

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Hey guys need help in identifying ign 1 and ign2 on my wiring harness when I got the car it was in boxes my dad and I rebuilt it and I’m putting a sniper2 on with the pdm and all the bells and whistles . Everything wired and I want to try and start it. From the research I’ve done it says I need to tie ignition 1 and ignition 2 to the pink wire which I believe is the number seven pin on the PDM. Can someone please help me identify what those are. I’ve attached a few pics of what I think maybe they are. If so do I just strip them and crimp them all together ? The car is a 67 dodge dart with a 440/727 8-3/4. Has fuel pump in the tank and it’s the brand new sniper 2 Thank you

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Please, please, please tell us what you're working on. Make, model and year.
 
Sorry my first car I’ve ever built I’m only 17. I’ll edit post. It’s a 67 dodge dart with a 440 727 8-3/4 3.55 posi

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Ignition 1 and 2

Link above will give you a bunch of info on ign1 and 2.
I run an fitech for the past 8 years and have had no trouble I didn't cause - I did wire in a relay to feed the ecu though I order to avoid voltage drops and noise issues.
 
haywire05 said:
Hey guys need help in identifying ign 1 and ign2 on my wiring harness when I got the car it was in boxes my dad and I rebuilt it and I’m putting a sniper2 on with the pdm and all the bells and whistles . Everything wired and I want to try and start it. From the research I’ve done it says I need to tie ignition 1 and ignition 2 to the pink wire which I believe is the number seven pin on the PDM. Can someone please help me identify what those are. I’ve attached a few pics of what I think maybe they are. If so do I just strip them and crimp them all together ? The car is a 67 dodge dart with a 440/727 8-3/4. Has fuel pump in the tank and it’s the brand new sniper 2 Thank you

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1....You will/ must use an ignition system that does NOT need a ballast resistor.

2....See the ballast you are holding? Jumper those two together. Then find the dark blue coil + wire which is one of the few that has an eyelet. That is what you will use to power the sniper.

3...We need to know what you are using for an ignition system to help with that.
 
Are you using the Hyperspark Distributor, coil and ignition box as well?

Be really sure you have good grounds. Like Head/block to chassis and battery and battery to chassis.

Just did my 69 over the winter and I love my Sniper EFI. I can drive the car dead cold, maintain high idle until warm, start it hot and if it sits for a week or month it fires right up and I can drive off. You'll be happy but prepare to learn some stuff to dial it in.
 
67Dart273 said:
1....You will/ must use an ignition system that does NOT need a ballast resistor.

2....See the ballast you are holding? Jumper those two together. Then find the dark blue coil + wire which is one of the few that has an eyelet. That is what you will use to power the sniper.

3...We need to know what you are using for an ignition system to help with that.
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It’s the holley set up for ignition all of it the complete system and thank you this info is perfect. It’s the pdm Holley distributor fuel pump everything. Does this picture help ? So tie those 2 together and then run the coil wire to #7 the “pink” wire on the pdm box then should he good to go ?

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dano said:
Are you using the Hyperspark Distributor, coil and ignition box as well?

Be really sure you have good grounds. Like Head/block to chassis and battery and battery to chassis.

Just did my 69 over the winter and I love my Sniper EFI. I can drive the car dead cold, maintain high idle until warm, start it hot and if it sits for a week or month it fires right up and I can drive off. You'll be happy but prepare to learn some stuff to dial it in.
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Yes using the complete kit all of it and thank you for your response . I posted a pic of the complete system.
 
haywire05 said:
It’s the holley set up for ignition all of it the complete system and thank you this info is perfect. It’s the pdm Holley distributor fuel pump everything. Does this picture help ? So tie those 2 together and then run the coil wire to #7 the “pink” wire on the pdm box then should he good to go ?

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I cannot resolve that photo, poor rez Can you find a link to download it? Your question sounds like you are on the right track
 
Okay I cut these wires off tied them together under the hood and ran a pink 20 gauge wire to number 16 nothing. When you say together at the key are you meaning under the dash as well ? I’m also assuming the dark blue with no end on it was the one to the coil as well ?
67Dart273 said:
Yes, exactly!!! Pin 16 on the pwr dist. module, yes, you want to tie IGN1/ IGN2 together at the key and connect to pin 16
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67Dart273 said:
Yes, exactly!!! Pin 16 on the pwr dist. module, yes, you want to tie IGN1/ IGN2 together at the key and connect to pin ok
Click to expand...

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check with a meter. If you did it right, you should have 12V there with the key "in run" and also whatever battery cranking voltage with key in "start" and cranking.

What do you mean, "nothing?" When you turn the key to run, and IF everything else is wired, you should hear the fuel pump run for a short time.

I am not familiar with the fancier late model sniper, so other than getting power to that point, .........nada. You'll have to refer to the Holley destructions
 
67Dart273 said:
check with a meter. If you did it right, you should have 12V there with the key "in run" and also whatever battery cranking voltage with key in "start" and cranking.

What do you mean, "nothing?" When you turn the key to run, and IF everything else is wired, you should hear the fuel pump run for a short time.

I am not familiar with the fancier late model sniper, so other than getting power to that point, .........nada. You'll have to refer to the Holley destructions
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I have no power anywhere except 12v to the starter relay. All the fuses under the dash are good. Ground from the motor to the chassis. Ground from the battery to the motor. Nada nothing what am I missing? Also put a single wire alternator on it as well. If that helps. Not sure where the wires for that are? It’s a 67 dart I found the one black wire with the eyelet but that’s it I don’t see anything else here. I have 12v to the top stud in the pic but that’s it.

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haywire05 said:
I have no power anywhere except 12v to the starter relay. All the fuses under the dash are good. Ground from the motor to the chassis. Ground from the battery to the motor. Nada nothing what am I missing? Also put a single wire alternator on it as well. If that helps. Not sure where the wires for that are? It’s a 67 dart I found the one black wire with the eyelet but that’s it I don’t see anything else here. I have 12v to the top stud in the pic but that’s i
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Okay I ran the black wire that was suppose to go the alternator because I put a one wire on it and now I have power and everything is working. Is this okay if I leave that wire connected to the positive pattern post ? Also when I turn the key to start it the horn beeps but I will figure that out and no fuel pump kicks on. But getting closer. Going to town for fuel as there’s none in it. I’m assuming it needs fuel to run or it will burn out. Also don’t have a neutral safety hooked up either. Thank you again for all the help. I want to drive this before I go to school end of the month and am horrible at wiring.
 
Yes, do run the pump without fuel. when you get a purge, do not start the car. Get out and be sure you have no fuel leaks. If all is good then re-purge and fire the engine.
 
I would do further digging. You are doing what, finishing up a new harness? Are you aware of the ammeter wires? Big black and big red under the dash, they go to the ammeter and the black is NOT ground, it continues to the alternator. If you do not have an ammeter they must be bolted together and taped

This a factory harness, or been chopped up/ modified, or what?

On a stocker, losing power to the key and no headlights/ etc means trouble in the ammeter circuit. The path is starter relay, fuse link, through the bulkhead connector (large red) to and through the ammeter, out the ammeter on large black, back out through the bulkhead, and to the alternator

A welded splice in the black ammeter wire runs off and feeds the fuse panel, headlights, and ignition switch.

Stuff about the ammeter circuit, and a simplified diagram from that web page

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67Dart273 said:
I would do further digging. You are doing what, finishing up a new harness? Are you aware of the ammeter wires? Big black and big red under the dash, they go to the ammeter and the black is NOT ground, it continues to the alternator. If you do not have an ammeter they must be bolted together and taped

This a factory harness, or been chopped up/ modified, or what?

On a stocker, losing power to the key and no headlights/ etc means trouble in the ammeter circuit. The path is starter relay, fuse link, through the bulkhead connector (large red) to and through the ammeter, out the ammeter on large black, back out through the bulkhead, and to the alternator

A welded splice in the black ammeter wire runs off and feeds the fuse panel, headlights, and ignition switch.

Stuff about the ammeter circuit, and a simplified diagram from that web page
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Okay this is a factory harness that previous owner butchered bad. From the diagram that you posted I should be fine then?? That black wire instead of from the alternator is coming from the positive post on the battery. Would this be fine? The one wire alternator I am running has a 2 gauge wire from it to the battery. For charging. All the lights work now. Just need to figure why when I turn the key to start the horns go off and the starter doesn’t crank. I’m assuming because the neutral safety isn’t hooked up yet ? Digging into this today. Thanks for the info getting closer I feel and not so discouraged anymore. What a great site.
 
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