So any good cam and lifters out there?

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68383GTS

68383GTS

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I would like to replace my 484 purple cam in my 383 this fall. With all the lifter issues out there the last few years I don’t know if it’s a good idea. Has anyone had any luck with a new cam and set of lifters lately? Maybe I should look for a NOS set from the 90’s….lol
 
68383GTS said:
I would like to replace my 484 purple cam in my 383 this fall. With all the lifter issues out there the last few years I don’t know if it’s a good idea. Has anyone had any luck with a new cam and set of lifters lately? Maybe I should look for a NOS set from the 90’s….lol
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Yes, that's what you should do.
 
I have put in at least 3 Mopar, 2 GM and 1 Ford small block camshafts in the past three years with no failures at all. I make sure the block is clean and the lifter bores are not too tight so the lifter can spin easy. Use Lucas hot rod oil only. I have only used Lunati camshafts and lifters lately. I gave up on Comp Cams. No problems with any of the Lunati camshafts at all. Make sure the engine starts up right away and break it in the correct way and they are fine.
 
I know how to install and break in a cam. Just worried about the many manufacturer lifter issues.
 
Tool steel lifters maybe? They are priced about the same as rollers.
 
68383GTS said:
I know how to install and break in a cam. Just worried about the many manufacturer lifter issues.
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I just had good luck with a set of bone stock Melling lifters I got from Summit. That was after some expen$ive Crower lifters wouldn't stop ticking. So far, I probably have about 2500 miles on the engine and they are fine and quiet as a mouse. So Melling for the win.
 
68383GTS said:
I know how to install and break in a cam. Just worried about the many manufacturer lifter issues.
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Just pick one and break it in like you always have, don't buy in to the cam failure drama.
Most of the failures are installer/operator error.
 
68383GTS said:
I know how to install and break in a cam. Just worried about the many manufacturer lifter issues.
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What I notice... is damaged lifters being sent out , that is... lifters that bumped around against each other and dented the convex faces. I'm talking Comp Cams crane a bunch of them ...even mopar lifters.
 
Another option is to have your current lifters refaced. I just did a quick search and Schneider Cams offers the service starting at $5 per lifter.

IMO this is the biggest issue, defective machining and/or damaged faces...
 
MopaR&D said:
Another option is to have your current lifters refaced. I just did a quick search and Schneider Cams offers the service starting at $5 per lifter.

IMO this is the biggest issue, defective machining and/or damaged faces...
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This^^^^^^is great option. I had them resurface my lifters and they look better than new.

To the OP, just call Jim at Racer Brown cams. Have him grind your cam and have him get you lifters.
 
We have been re-facing lifters here for DECADES because of the high cost of new lifters.
They are then as good as new & if you are re-facing 25+ yr old lifters, you will be assured they are good quality, versus today's lifters, made of pure crapanium.. Those who think there is no problem with todays' lifters must be living in a parallel universe because experienced engine builders are having failures. You can also re-face the lifters 2-3 times; I was doing that in the 70s/80s when I was cam testing.
 
I bought NOS. I got a purple shaft .528 and MP lifters. I paid almost $400 for everything, so it wasn’t a cheap option.
 
Rat Bastid said:
This^^^^^^is great option. I had them resurface my lifters and they look better than new.

To the OP, just call Jim at Racer Brown cams. Have him grind your cam and have him get you lifters.
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I like the idea too as long as the cost doesn't outweigh peace of mind too much. New push rods w/could be in order afterward$ ...that's another 200 bucks.
Depending on how much the lifters cost to reface or looking at near or around 300 bucks in total...or 65-180 in new lifters and the time to inspect them closely...and or exchange a couple. Lol

I rolled the dice on my magnum recently and bought a new set of off brand rollers..$60 for 16. Lol 12 showed up. Messaged them and got the other 4 over night mail. They're in there running now, been driving and so far so good.
someone's gotta find out. Could be the ticket for others. Quality control is pretty much the issue with any of the lower dollar stuff. I did have two lifters 'because yes I do test all those things on my finger and on a table first with pressure as part of my semi crude inspection' but two lifters..that felt like they had a piece of grit in them. I blew them out with some mass air flow cleaner I had sitting near by and then soaked them in oil ..wiped them off and rolled them. They rolled perfect after that. In they went. Knowing what you have in front of you helps.
 
If anyone is interested, I have an old cam and lifters for sale! It's an old Competition Cams CRS 286H-8. I ran it for many years, and replaced it when I did a rebuild. The cam is in great shape, and I have all of the matching lifters IDd. I also have the appropriate springs for this cam if someone wanted the whole package.

20220405_153227.jpg
 
I just broke in a Comp 268H cam and lifter set, I even used semi synthtic oil for breakin that most say not to use and it's fine. I just used plenty of assembly lube and dialed timing before initial startup.
It ran first crank and never saw below 2000 rpm.
I think the problems mostly happen when an engine needs restarted a few times before the breakin cycle is completed.
 
The syn oil is not the problem for cam break in, it can be a problem with new rings seating.....
 
Bewy said:
The syn oil is not the problem for cam break in, it can be a problem with new rings seating.....
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Ya, I knew. I'm not worried about the cast rings seating. It's a mild build and daily driver and if it goes it's just an excuse to upgrade.
I'll just throw in some Rotella and run an old school hard run shakedown till they seat.
 
Hellrats said:
I have put in at least 3 Mopar, 2 GM and 1 Ford small block camshafts in the past three years with no failures at all. I make sure the block is clean and the lifter bores are not too tight so the lifter can spin easy. Use Lucas hot rod oil only. I have only used Lunati camshafts and lifters lately. I gave up on Comp Cams. No problems with any of the Lunati camshafts at all. Make sure the engine starts up right away and break it in the correct way and they are fine.
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Lunati is the only manufacture that I have had issues with.
Broke the engine in on my engine run stand, everything was fine.
Installed it in my car, upon start-up instant peck-peck-peck, shut it down fast.
Lifter plunger was stuck all the way down, bent push-rod and pushed it thru the rocker.
Changed the one lifter, push-rod and rocker and it has been fine for years now.
 
Makes a man think solid lifters, then it's only a function of thousandths of inches for hot/cold lifter rocker clearance
 
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