Dave thank you for your input once again.
No prob. I know where you're coming from.
Now what are your opinions as for building the rest of the engine myself. I have taken apart engines and re-gasketed them. I have not however ever installed new components. Will I have issues setting up the valve train or should everything just install and run? Will I be able to use my 318 intake on a 360 engine?
You shouldn't have any trouble installing valvetrain parts, as long as you follow the rules of whichever aftermarket outfit you choose for parts. There are proceedures to installing new components. I would highly recommend Hughes engines for cams as well. They have excellent quality parts and the reps on the phone are exceedingly helpful in answering questions, including install and break-in questions.
If you are going with a hydraulic lifter cam, within a reasonable street performance lift, duration, lobe separation and advance, you should be able to get a very basic install accomplished at TDC.
One thing that I think Chrysler did wrong was the torque specs on rocker shaft bolts. If you go by factory spec, sometimes the bolts break. I usually just get them to about 25ft lbs or hand tight with a ratchet, in sequence. I haven't had any problems with bolts since I started doing that and my daily driver gets me to work every day on that method.
The Performer 2176 intake is between a 273/318 and 340/360 intake runner and port size. They designed the intake to work with both port sizes ok. The best thing you can do is gasket match your heads and intake, if you are really concerned with the transition. It will bolt on and work, but work slightly better if it's matched, depending on what you are doing with your head porting.
The 302 heads that you are looking at, by the way, have a very unique casted shape that spins/ swirls the air. When you get a look at them, run your fingers on the inside of the wall and examine it. That shape helps velocity quite a bit. I'm not sure that porting them will help the lower end of the build much, except for around the valve guide. Read what 1wild&crazyguy has to say in this article
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=167865
and examine a '302 head before making any decisions, if you stick with a 318.
I think Im at the point of being ok with a entire new engine and not risking going with something I really have no idea about from someone trying to get rid of there engine. So its either by a place like Carolina Engines where I can buy some performance upgrades or a local machine shop with no upgrades. Local machine shop has 3 year warranty. Carolina also does but costs $150. Either way I will be spending around 2k. Is that 2k I should spend on a 318 or spend some extra and go to a 360. Also what about balancing the engine, necessary? So please give me your opinions on my thoughts for above. Pro's, Con's, Concerns.
Here are ALL of the conversion parts you will need to go to a 360, from a 318, drop in, to eliminate any confusion or questions. It's simple.
-360 main crank pulley that matches your components setup ( with or without P/S, A/C, single or dual pulley alternator, etc.)
-360 counterbalanced flexplate for your 727, to match the engine's front external balancer. Keep your converter that you currently have if you like it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Dodge-Ch...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d09984b3d&vxp=mtr
-360 passenger car oil pan
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAW-STEEL-M...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccf8c54c3&vxp=mtr
Your 318 dipstick and tube should work with a factory replacement 5qt pan like the one above.
-late 318/340/360 spool engine mounts (local auto parts store factory 360 replacements) and conversion K member ears, if you have disc type.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCHUMACHER-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d09997279&vxp=mtr
Everything else should bolt right on from your LA 318 to an LA 360.
Balancing any engine that has new components, as mentioned by others, is the way to go.
I honestly think you'll be happier in the long run with a 360, if you want more performance. If you are happy with the performance that you gathered from your 318, you can stick with it and get a new engine out of a few hundred less. More performance= a little more cash for parts.
As you've stated, running any engine through the machine shop is going to cost money, if that's the route that you would prefer. I think that a rebuilt engine ends any questionability, but so does examining a used unit, if you can find one. If you have access to a used engine that you can inspect, it opens the possability of not having to do work in certain areas that can potentially save you money, but the initial cost of the engine and conversion parts offsets that cost...
So... Do you want to spend the cash on a 318 or do you want to spend a little more or potentially the same on a 360, depending on what it looks like when you get it?
For whatever it's worth, I left the 318 in my girlfriend's Scamp. This is coming from a guy who has 4 360 short blocks, one bored .040" over and ready to build, and access to two more Magnums that I could use for free.
The reason I decided to go with the 318 was because I don't need the extra power. The car is driven on the street, it's going to be fun with the cylinder heads and induction system that I'm running and the stick shift that it will get, soon.
I could build a 360 from hell for little or no money out of pocket right now, with the current spool type K member in the car and all of the conversion parts at my disposal, but it's a matter of functionality for me. I believe in building engines that taylor the vehicle's real to life use. Yeah, I could go nuts, but when will I? At the track, a few times a year, maybe? The car can get out of it's own way on highway on ramps and get reasonable economy, cruising in the primaries, so why not leave it alone?
Just a few things to chew on, while you and your lady are making the decision about the engine choices available.
