So my 340 turned out to be.......

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A38Valiant said:
Call the seller up, and ask if he knows where you might get an engine. When he asks why, tell him the "340" that was in the car turned out to be a prototype block that you were told has some very odd features, and that Chrysler has offered you a "very large sum" to buy the engine back. Then bask in the afterglow of pissing in somebody else's cornflakes just as they have yours.
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Yeah, thats what im thinkin, mess with his head. lmao
 
racerdan80 said:
Misrepresentation is never fun. Reminds me of when I went to look at a dodge dart gt listed as a 2 door on craigslist and by the time I got there it magically grew 2 extra doors! Not only was I mad as hell for wasting a day but the expense of gas and renting a car dolly. Cam specs are very sedate 0.393/0.400 at the valve and minimal duration. That's why when everyone puts 1.88/1.50 valves and any cam over 0.440 lift, basic 600 cfm 4 barrel and headers that 318 will feel like a whole new motor. On a side note, you were lied too about the motor, are you sure you have a 727? They are longer and have a different pan than the 904. It wouldn't hurt to verify before you go buying parts for trans. Best of luck
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Thanks for the heads up on the transmission, I'm pretty sure it is a 727, the tail shaft is a mile long. As for my little 318 it's got a weiand dual plane, 600 eddy carb, some kind of aftermarket cam that thumps pretty hard, it pulls nice on the top end but has no balls down low. I'm assuming it's a lack of gear, that's more incentive to get my 8.75 built.
 
cross_thread72 said:
Thanks for the heads up on the transmission, I'm pretty sure it is a 727, the tail shaft is a mile long. As for my little 318 it's got a weiand dual plane, 600 eddy carb, some kind of aftermarket cam that thumps pretty hard, it pulls nice on the top end but has no balls down low. I'm assuming it's a lack of gear, that's more incentive to get my 8.75 built.
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The easy way to tell if it's a 727 is, sight down the tranny filler tube to where it goes into the pan. If there's a "kickout" on the side of the transmission case, it's a 727. If the filler tube goes into the side of the body of the transmission case and there's no "kickout, it's a 904. You don't even need to get under the car...:cheers:
 
Build the 318. They are respectable engines.
 
Hate to see that kind of stuff happen to people, don't like when someone lies to me just to sell something. Then again maybe the guy selling truly thought it was a 340, I wouldn't be short of calling and asking about it though. Build the 318 and you will have a lot of fun with it for sure.
 
I believe the seller deserves some blame here, but you are obviously on the www, and you could not spend an hour Googleing to find out what you had? Unlike chibbys, Mopars are VERY easy to identify. The engine no. is right under the driver side head on the front of the block!!!! The CID is in the first few numbers

904/ 727. You don't even have to get under the car. Do as Bill said, or bend down and look under the passenger side for "the bump" Here's the difference:

Bottom view, so the "bump" is on passenger side, front

904-727.JPG


In the poor photo below, you cannot see the engine number, but it will be immediately below the top of the deck on the driver side
 

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I had a 318 in my Dart. It was "lightly built" according to the PO. That meant headers and and intake and carb. It was a dog, and I apologize to dogs for the comparison. I had a hard time passing a Honda Odyssey last year after Mopars in the Park. I put in a 2400 stall and then a Comp Cams XE268H. Woke that baby right up. It had a great intake - an Eddy RPM air gap and an Eddy 600 on it. Later I changed to a 800 Eddy and it woke it up like you wouldn't believe, but it ran so rich your eyes would water. I liked that intake so much I took the Super Victor off my 408 and put the RPM on it instead.
 
67Dart273 said:
I believe the seller deserves some blame here, but you are obviously on the www, and you could not spend an hour Googleing to find out what you had? Unlike chibbys, Mopars are VERY easy to identify. The engine no. is right under the driver side head on the front of the block!!!! The CID is in the first few numbers

904/ 727. You don't even have to get under the car. Do as Bill said, or bend down and look under the passenger side for "the bump" Here's the difference:

Bottom view, so the "bump" is on passenger side, front

904-727.JPG


In the poor photo below, you cannot see the engine number, but it will be immediately below the top of the deck on the driver side
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I know that I'm partially to blame, and I thank all of you for the advice, tips, and constructive criticism, but it's not every day you can pick up a 100% rust free A body for almost nothing. I'm reasonably certain I've got my $1500 worth. Oh and thanks for the trans ID pics, I for sure have the 727.
 
cross_thread72 said:
I know that I'm partially to blame, and I thank all of you for the advice, tips, and constructive criticism, but it's not every day you can pick up a 100% rust free A body for almost nothing. I'm reasonably certain I've got my $1500 worth. Oh and thanks for the trans ID pics, I for sure have the 727.
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You want your money back? You stold that baby.
 
I wouldn't frag the seller yet. Had you turned around and sold the car, you might have told the next guy it was a 340 too. Maybe he didn't know. Sounds like you got a great deal. It might have been worth $1500 without an engine, so had you known it had a 318 you probably would have bought it anyway.
 
You are both right. It wouldn't have mattered what motor was in it, my little boy picked it out. Just ask him he'll tell you "my race car". Nope, no money back offers, I didn't know what the car is worth....I was a Chevy guy before this.
 
yes it may be a little disappointing... but you got a good deal. run with it, 318s can be built to run with minimal work
 
cross_thread72 said:
a 318, I'm highly disappointed, and yes the first good test drive revealed an ugly under powered secret. I got it up in the air and found the block numbers and learned the sad truth. :sad8:
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but i have been taken like that it is a lesson hard learned but now do your research first then buy. and again sorry to hear about that karma is a ***** when it comes back to them.
 
Enjoy the teen for this season and build yourself a stroker out of a 360 or a 340 to put in this winter.
 
needsaresto said:
AGREED!. Seller misrepresented,lied and needs to be taught a lesson. Take him to court.
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Hog wash. That's what's wrong with our society today. Everybody wantin to sue over somethin. Just go beat his *** and be done with it. Saves money all the way around.
 
If I was capable of this,I would have suggested it,lol. As it stands you dont see people with m.s beating on others,unless they can drive over them with thier wheelchairs..So my first thought was a lawsuit as thats what I could do. Or just shoot the bastard...Either way I think the purchaser is owed something,as he is the one who was decieved. It's not so much the purchase price,which is not bad by todays still inflated standards,it's the deception the seller chose to help sell his vehicle.

Ya never know. Perhaps the knowledge of what the car really was would have given the buyer another bargaining chip,and the price would have been driven down even further.Maybe the buyer could have saved himself a few hundred more.

Great deals are still to be had,especially if the buyer is fully aware of what he is buying. My Dart cost me only $350,in the good ole days before mopars suffered from barret jackson disease,and it came with a running ,driving 318/904, 8 3/4 combo.
 
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