Solid flat tappet cam

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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What sort of things will i be running into with a Solid cam. Im getting closer to motor build time and just wondering what sets them apart from HYD... I know I get a few more ponies with the solid.. This will be a street car but not a daily driver just something to cruise in.
 
Well, if you don't allready have adjustable rockers.... custom length pushrods may be in order. Check the length you need and maybe an off the shelf set of pushrods will do ya good.

It's often said, Periodic adjustments need to be made" AKA readjusting lash. Well, it may be true, but it's not weekend chore. Honestly, if ya did it once a year, I'd call that ALOT!

The solid cam has a few more RPM's to it over a Hyd cam. Not really so much that it makes more power than a Hyd because it is a solid, but so designed to make more power than it's equal as a Hyd. would.

The cam also has the abilty to have ground into it, a quicker steeper ramp for quickly raising the valve. This translates into more power. But just because it can be ground in doesn't automaticly mean it is done.
 
its a new motor build so i will have push rods to correct length and roller rockers. The adjusting was what i was worried about really... Thought it was more like a chore every every week or month to keep it running.
 
The solid lobe ramps are able to be a bit more agressive. They not only RPM higher but quicker in most cases. RUmblefish nailed it about the adjustability. As long as you get a good high quality rocker arm, adjustment will be something that is seldom done. It's probably hoestly now become a toss up in the flat tappet department. Because technology has allowed hydraulic flat tappets to almost catch solids in power. It really becomes more of a personal preference I guess. "I" would think a solid camshaft would be more of a match woth what you are building. Old school tunnel ram through the hood kinda thing......I don't know if that's how you're thinkin or not.
 
Bingo thats what im talking about. I also wonder if I will have too much lift.. Since i see guys running alot smaller cams on the street
 
72ScampTramp said:
Bingo thats what im talking about. I also wonder if I will have too much lift.. Since i see guys running alot smaller cams on the street
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What do you mean? Do you have a cam chosen already? Building a throwback car like that......you know when they were popular, they went big with everything. That's kinda why they worked well. Lotsa carburetor, lotsa cam, lotsa compression, lotsa loose converter, lotsa gear. All that lotsa works good as a combination. Bigger is better IS always better if you do it everywhere and not just one or two areas. It will probably be pretty cool.
 
What cam R U lookin at.

A really good street performer doesn't need to have alotta lift. .500 is plenty. Get the cam in the duration to match the componets and driving rpm range. Lift can be limited to limit valve train stress.

In example, 340 "Cheater" cams have a loooow lift because of the rules, but tooons of duration and yet run low 11's and such.
 
I was say that if you want to run that tunnel ram, use 2 small carbs and a mid-level/lifting cam and you'll be OK. Since your NOT racing it, you can back off the actual power fest abilty of the parts and dial it down some while retaining the WOW! LOOK AT THAT! factor.

IMO, bowl ported heads and such a cam dscribed about should still run preety fast.
 
rumblefish360 said:
What cam R U lookin at.

A really good street performer doesn't need to have alotta lift. .500 is plenty. Get the cam in the duration to match the componets and driving rpm range. Lift can be limited to limit valve train stress.

In example, 340 "Cheater" cams have a loooow lift because of the rules, but tooons of duration and yet run low 11's and such.
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http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2560&gid=317 this cam here
 
That could be a good choice with the right converter and gear.
 
OOoOOOOooOO

That'll work nice with 4.10's, and well done "bowl" ported heads at the min. Just make sure there clearance at the valve guide. Doing the tunnel ram set up, the 2 small carbs will work well. Speakin of which, what carbs are pictured?
 
Them are 2 Holley 4160 VS carbs. I got the set of them rebuilt and nice for $270. Best thing is I asked the guy to build them and match them for a tunnel ram.


Im hoping it screams old school style thats the idea of all this. Ill be running stealth heads with this for plenty of breathing unported.
 
I ran a solid lifter cam on my old 318 for about 4 years as my daily driver. If you end up using some old 273 adjustable rockers, just add some jam nuts so the rockers don't back off and you'll be fine. Once mine were set they pretty much stayed. Crane cams used to make a kit with new adjusting screws and jam nuts, don't know if they still do.
I would check them from time to time depending on how many miles you put on it, but like what was already said, it's not a weekly or even an every month problem.
EDIT:
OOPs, sorry I didn't see the BIG BLOCK A body tech at the top of the page, and I was just reading a small block post. Now back to my regular scheduled posting....LOL
 
72ScampTramp said:
273 rockers on a BB?
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I think he misunderstood and thought that you were runnin a small block. Have you got rockers yet? Cause if you luck up on some of the ductile iron adjustable rockers what he's talkin about is a good idea on a big block too. I'm not sure there's enough adjuster on any of the rest, but those old Mopar iron rockers have long adjuster screws.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Them are 2 Holley 4160 VS carbs. I got the set of them rebuilt and nice for $270. Best thing is I asked the guy to build them and match them for a tunnel ram.


Im hoping it screams old school style thats the idea of all this. Ill be running stealth heads with this for plenty of breathing unported.
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You oughtta look into them plates to twist um around sideways.
 
Back in the day of chebby LT-1 they had solid lifters. Had a buddy with one of those engines from a 71 vette in his 76. It sounded way cool as you can hear the valves clicking due to the valve to lifter clearance.

I don't think I would build an engine now with solid tappets and have to adjust them. Why would they move? Valve sets into the seat (closes the gap), cam/lifter/pushrod wear opens the gap.

Why bother?
 
Well, they shouldn't move. After a few years of service and that will depend on type of service, abusive or not, the wearing does create a little extra space. You don't need alot, but it'll letcha know when it is time.

Slant 6's run with that famous "Clatter" and for a good long time as well. The mechanical cam /6's ran a very long time beofre they clattered.

If it was an adjustment every 5 years, I'd call it an early adjustment or heavy abuse. Long periods of idle/stop and go traffic or racing.
 
I was really fear full there was more red tape to go through to run one but it doesnt sound that bad. Since all the engine parts will be new it makes it easier
 
I prefer solid lifters and here is "my" reasoning. A hydrauilc lifter has give or take .100" of movement in the hydraulic pushrod plunger. The whole purpose of the hydraulic lifter is to reduce noise. There is no other reason the hydraulic lifter was invented. Argue it all you want, but that's it in black and white. The valvetrain must have some sort of "leway". Whether that is from valve lash of a solid lifter or from the "forgiveness" if you will of a hydraulic lifter. Actually, if you get technical about it, They are really both the same as for allowing that leway. However, after that, they are completely different. Because the hydraulic lifter can have as much as .080" or more movement of the plunger, the solid lifter to me since it has a measureable amount of valve lash is hands down more accurate.
 
Do it!! Lately on these forums I've heard a lot of guys complaining their fast ramp hyd. cams are noisy! I run a tight lash Comp. street solid roller....check lash once in the spring and drive it!! The tight lash cams out there now can hardly be heard over big exhaust, etc may as well take advantage of the performance gains.....the maint. is just a good reason to tinker and drink beer!!:burnout:
 
i dont hear any noise or clatter. my lash doesnt move . I check it twice a year. Hughes solid cam/ harland sharp rockers.

I highly recommend , when you are ready to buy a cam , HUGHES engines. They are GREAT guys to talk to --great customer service -- and MOPAR ONLY .
 
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