Solid Lifter Valve Adjustment

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JimmyV

MOPAR!!
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Hey Just Want A Little Bit Of A Freshend Memory On Solid Lifter Valve Adjustment On A 360 290 Duration 525 Lift Solid Cam I Know The Order But Whats A Good Clearance
 
valve lash is set by the manufacturer of the cam...
 
ok..20 questions...

what comp cam?.....

normally there is a part number associated with the cam....and you can go to their website and look up the cam by it part number and it will tell you the valve lash....
 
hey since were on this what is a way to lash ur engine cold so its more even? i mean say ur supposed to do .020 on both sides hot and and u wanna lash it cold? i know it could change from engine to engine cuz of part materials and what not but still...
 
usually with aluminum heads on a cast iron block...subtract .006 from lash...
 
ugh...if you read it...they say its fine for break in then to re adjust it... I have a solid cam and thats what it says on the how to
 
all cast iron...set it a couple thousands looser....fire it up....then readjust valves hot....

a couple of thousand is not going to make any difference..
 
what about all cast iron slant?
Not sure how the valvetrain geometry compares to a "V" configuration, but I'd think adding 0.002" should get it close.

Maybe I should dig out the ancient "Cams and Valvetrains" book from the dusty archives...
 
i didn't hope that i made u think im trying to break in the motor, i already have done that and have 3500 miles on the car with regular valve adjustments. but i was told that the only way to adj lash hot is with the engine running. cuz other wise the engine will cool enough between the time u start and the time u finish.
 
it takes you that long to do your adjustments? warm the car to 180 then start adjusting... Shouldent take more than 10-15mins
 
it takes you that long to do your adjustments? warm the car to 180 then start adjusting... Shouldent take more than 10-15mins

yea that about how long it takes but i was told that thats long enough for it to start to change clearences on u.
 
If you are using Original 273 rockers you can use a universal socket with an extension and ratchet while it is running. If not, and you have locknuts Go with 74Burntorange's advice. Do one side at a time then run again to keep temps as close as possible. The change from 70F to 180F is big but 180F to 160F is small. Running is always better than not. Are you on the base circle?
 
if you have adjuster & nut style, get a friend to crank motor at the starter switch with key off [so it don't fire up on you] and what you do is loosen the the adjust nut, slip the feeler in there and with a lil clockwise tension on the allen wrench/adjuster.. have yer buddy crank it over till you can't turn the adjuster anymore [valves opening and closing over and over]
Then have him stop with the valve open, this way you need not worry about holding the adjuster while tightening the nut, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY AND THE WHOLE REASON BEHIND THIS METHOD ...you get the right lash with no trying to find tdc or closed back side of the lobe.
I was so stoked when my buddy John showed me this method, thanx John!
The most accurate and fastest way to do valve adjustment.imo

If you have the old jam bolt style then you're kinda stuck with the checking them over and over till you got it right bit...
 
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