Some 5.9 roller cam help from y'all please

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magnummopar said:
Trail, you can just order the heads with upgraded springs if you get them from us, ootb with 120#@1.66 300# at 1.16 which will work for up to .550+ lift.

In your case, without getting a bunch of expensive parts like stall converter and gears, stick with my recommendation of the 212 520 with a max of 215 .533
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I'll spare ya the gory details :D but it's a little late for that if I already have the heads and seeing as they don't go over .470 I'm not capable of spending 1,500 on daily driver heads.
Well, capable but not going to.
I'll run it with the stock cam before I'll do that.
I know there is an acceptable way to use what I have and make it work well for what I use it for, just trying to find it.
 
TrailBeast said:
I'll spare ya the gory details :D but it's a little late for that if I already have the heads and seeing as they don't go over .470 I'm not capable of spending 1,500 on daily driver heads.
Well, capable but not going to.
I'll run it with the stock cam before I'll do that.
I know there is an acceptable way to use what I have and make it work well for what I use it for, just trying to find it.
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Greg,how does the actual original cam core look? Mine was flat,why I got the engine for free..(three flat lobes...)
There is a 5.2 grind used available here,a bit more aggressive than what you have,currently.


"As for using what you have,that's the whole premise of hot rodding."
 
How about a stock 5.2 cam?

That should be fairly cheap and a bit of a upgrade, not to mention literally a drop in.
 
I'm confused as to where this EQ heads only support 470 lift out of the box? That info seems to be false. I bought a set of bare heads through Magnum Mopar, with the cam he recommended. My stock heads were cracked. Took it all to the machinist, where he double checked the valve grind, and then reassembled with most of the original parts, less the springs keepers, retainers and seals. Everything was good to go, and the springs and heads had plenty of room to spare. Just wrapping up the engine this week.
 
BTW, on the LSA thing..... wider LSA will help economy. If you are running a high stall TC, then a 110-108 LSA makes sense as you are not spending any real operating time at low RPM's under 2k and you could not take advantage of it. But with a stock TC and running under 2k, then you can use the wider LSA for economy and better idle. (Oh, but you wanted the 'burble'.....I'd just put on a very open exhaust for the sound, as Abodybomber suggested.)
 
YY1 said:
How about a stock 5.2 cam?

That should be fairly cheap and a bit of a upgrade, not to mention literally a drop in.
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I'm looking at all the possibilities I can, so it could happen.



71dusterdan said:
I'm confused as to where this EQ heads only support 470 lift out of the box? That info seems to be false. I bought a set of bare heads through Magnum Mopar, with the cam he recommended. My stock heads were cracked. Took it all to the machinist, where he double checked the valve grind, and then reassembled with most of the original parts, less the springs keepers, retainers and seals. Everything was good to go, and the springs and heads had plenty of room to spare. Just wrapping up the engine this week.
Click to expand...

I know, .470?
WTH?

nm9stheham said:
BTW, on the LSA thing..... wider LSA will help economy. If you are running a high stall TC, then a 110-108 LSA makes sense as you are not spending any real operating time at low RPM's under 2k and you could not take advantage of it. But with a stock TC and running under 2k, then you can use the wider LSA for economy and better idle. (Oh, but you wanted the 'burble'.....I'd just put on a very open exhaust for the sound, as Abodybomber suggested.)
Click to expand...

It'll be 90% of the time under 4k (except for playing)

I really like the sound of this kids motor, but it's a bit rougher than I would want and it's idling to high and has open headers.
This sound through Flowmasters would just be killer IMO.

Hate it in the beginning but after it warms up about half way through the video.

 
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For what it's worth, I have been running a stock 2000 5.9 cam in my Duster, with R/T heads and an MP dual plane intake, and it doesn't do too bad. I know I left plenty on the table with that cam (and making plans to do something about it), but with an A833OD and 2.71 gears (gonna fix that too :) ), it will spin the tires. Goes down the road great, idles well, and with the TTI exhaust it actually sounds good.

Not recommending it, wish I had stepped up when I put the heads and roller cam in the car as it does run out of breath higher up in the RPM range. But for what it is, it's not bad.

No definitive numbers, though, only opinions based on perception.
 
Are you sure you want to run a stock tc? A converter can really boost midrange torque and t turn a mild build into something fun
 
Sounds a lot like my 75 Dart with the 318 LA....

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MbTXrOsvps"]75 Dodge Dart start up & idle - YouTube[/ame]
 
I am trying to figure out what box you got your EQ heads out of that limit you to .470" lift.

I ordered my EQ heads with springs installed for to go with my 224/230 .513" lift, 110 LSA, custom Comp Cam roller cam. I basically recreated the XE 268 in a roller cam. It has a nice idle at 800 RPM. It is probably a bit more then what you are looking for.

I would think something 218/224 or 212/218 would be a good fit. When in doubt, especial where street manners, go with the more conservative size cam.
 
Abodybomber said:
He has that unique exhaust,home built with an x pipe and flow Masters.The 318 is/was quite "burbly" with it. Add 42 inches,mostly stroke, real world compression and more camshaft,he will get his sound.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah. I agree somewhat. But remember, stroke and kyoobs can calm an otherwise rowdy sounding cam.
 
TrailBeast said:
I'll spare ya the gory details :D but it's a little late for that if I already have the heads and seeing as they don't go over .470 I'm not capable of spending 1,500 on daily driver heads.
Well, capable but not going to.
I'll run it with the stock cam before I'll do that.
I know there is an acceptable way to use what I have and make it work well for what I use it for, just trying to find it.
Click to expand...

We have the spring kit that will bolt right on your heads you have and allow you to run up to .570". Your not limited by your heads, its the 80# springs that will bind at anything over .475", the heads will take a huge cam. Springs, retainers and locks are less than $200.
 
crackedback said:
The hughes 1110 spring coil bind at .620 lift with a 1.66 installed height according to them. 1.050ish bind height.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...bnVt&level1=VmFsdmUgU3ByaW5ncw==&partid=10280

I'd check what is there and see if the retainer is an issue. Something doesn't sound right with that spring and a reasonable installed height unless it's retainer to guide/seal issues.
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You got it, as it is retainer to guide clearance limiting it, and all EQ heads unless they have been cut for taller springs. (Brian at IMM told me)
I called where I got the heads and they told me .475 max (even though some run up to just under .500)
He also said that cutting seats, and adding longer springs and valves is how people are getting over .500 lift with EQ heads weather it was done before or after they were sold.

After that I called Brian at IMM, gave him the details and what I actually cared about and what I wanted.
I don't need big lift and if that was all that mattered I could just run the OEM hydraulic.
What I want is max mid throttle torque and a mild but obvious rumpity rump in the idle, so he said he could easily have a cam made for me that should produce about 350hp and 350-400tq with a nice moderate lope to it using my stock converter, springs, retainers, locks, intake, carb and gearing.

Wait, he said I should run conical springs due to harmonics (forgot about that) so I'll have to get those on the ways as soon as I can.

Sounds like I'm going to go with a custom grind Hughes cam from IMM. :D

below is a video of how it sounds now and it just BEGS for an aftermarket cam idle.

I think Mgunner's video is just a bit on the too rough side for what I want, but it does sound really nice.

here's the video.
www.classichei.com/dart/stock318sound.avi





Thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone, as well as the offers for parts.
I appreciate it.
 
OOPS! I better call some customers and tell them to shut their engines down right away, I have a bunch of EQ's out there with cams above .530" lift. Hope nobody started their engine yet!!!!!
 
magnummopar said:
OOPS! I better call some customers and tell them to shut their engines down right away, I have a bunch of EQ's out there with cams above .530" lift. Hope nobody started their engine yet!!!!!
Click to expand...

I know, what the hell?
The lack of correct information is flippin ridiculous, but that is what they said.
I measured these and got .480 from the retainer to the seal.
 
TrailBeast said:
No dampers.
Click to expand...

The springs aren't 1110. 1110's have a flat damper spring in them.

They are likely the conical springs and are really weak as mentioned earlier. 80ish pounds on the seat and maybe 220 at 500 lift. You'll get something in there that will work better than the stock stick.
 
crackedback said:
The springs aren't 1110. 1110's have a flat damper spring in them.

They are likely the conical springs and are really weak as mentioned earlier. 80ish pounds on the seat and maybe 220 at 500 lift. You'll get something in there that will work better than the stock stick.
Click to expand...

Some time between you asking about the dampers and me answering I realized that.
Since the cam is going to be a low lift and I don't drive it hard at all I think I'm going to go ahead with the conicals that they came with (which are apparently stock runnable) for now and order better ones when I know for sure what I can replace them with.

Does that sound semi reasonable considering all I am really doing is using a lift .060 higher than the original Magnum heads that the conicals are apparently capable of that already?

Or do you know of springs, retainers and locks worth using right now with uncut heads?
 
Like I said, OUR springs are no cutting required, direct fit, 120# @1.66 and 300#@1.16. Capable of at least .575", actually higher but any higher and you will want to move up to something like 200#1.88 with a longer valve to keep rocker geometry under control.

In your case, EQ heads will handle LOTS of lift with the correct custom retainers, springs and locks, which we happen to have in stock. I stand behind my original cam recommendation as well....do it once, do it right.

Dont know where you got EQ's but when we sell them, they come with PEP 80#@1.60 factory spec springs and will work great up to about .450" lift. Our Stage II EQ's come with the upgraded springs I mentioned, good for .575" lift.

If you got EQ's from Jegs, you got chinese factory spec springs and you paid too much :D
 
magnummopar said:
Like I said, OUR springs are no cutting required, direct fit, 120# @1.66 and 300#@1.16. Capable of at least .575", actually higher but any higher and you will want to move up to something like 200#1.88 with a longer valve to keep rocker geometry under control.

In your case, EQ heads will handle LOTS of lift with the correct custom retainers, springs and locks, which we happen to have in stock. I stand behind my original cam recommendation as well....do it once, do it right.

Dont know where you got EQ's but when we sell them, they come with PEP 80#@1.60 factory spec springs and will work great up to about .450" lift. Our Stage II EQ's come with the upgraded springs I mentioned, good for .575" lift.

If you got EQ's from Jegs, you got chinese factory spec springs and you paid too much :D
Click to expand...



Ok, you have my attention because now it feels like I am getting some real specific information.
Actually, after reading back through every post most of the information was there but I apparently didn't really see it because it was so spread out through the thread.
My apologies on that. (must have been a bit frustrating for you) :D

I would need to ask again about the idle light lope I would like.
Can that be done, and can you do it?
If so, shoot me an estimate and list of the parts needed for the "up to 575 lift springs, retainers, locks if I need new ones and the cam please if you don't mind.

If for some reason you can't do the idle then I will have to go with the other cam, but I can still use your springs and, retainers and locks.


I have not committed to anyone or ordered any of this yet.

Thank you for the patience and persistence in getting it through my head.

I have to go now for the night, but please shoot me that info if you could.
 
Trail,
Spring kit w/ret & locks $199
Regrind is $159 plus core.
Push rods $99 with cam purchase.

We dont design cams for sound, we design our cams for economy, performance, both or all out power/torque. With that said, they sound good, the bigger you go, the better they sound. We currently have several regrinds in stock if you want to compare them to the "rumpity" hughes/imm cam's numbers.

FYI, I built an engine a while back that didnt sound like much at all but sure was fun to go out and destroy the 268 "top fuel" chebbys around town with my little stealth 5.2. Put it in a wrangler and could go hunt lumpy GM junk and coffee can muffler hondas. Anything with duration over 200 should sound good, even on 112.
 
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