Someone familiar with tractor 3 point "in general?"

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It came with a PTO pump, and what little I've moved the hydraulics, seems to be OK. The downside is that the coupler is rusted to the pump and "something" makes the pump wobble. I've examined the PTO shaft, and it seems OK. Later on I'll pull it apart and inspect closer. The tractor has an "in /out" lever for the PTO so it doesn't need to run all the time.

This came with the factory hydraulics unit which moves, but it is all "dedicated." I"ve not tried to evaluate it. The loader has a live pump driven off the front of the crank---aftermarket.
 
I admit this little gal is "pretty light." I've actually had the rear wheels off the ground with the loader trying to move something, but generally I'm "fairly" careful I think. I've even seen pictures/ videos of several of the "compact" tractors of various kinds broke in half.

My rears are filled - by best estimate, each of my rear tires is probably 800+ lbs including rims. I've still been up on 2 wheels a couple times when I underestimate the load. I have one log that's about the max my loader can lift that I've been rolling around the property. It's probably 18' long, still pretty green, and about 36" diameter at the base. That **** makes me tippy on the front wheels. Any kind of bump, and the rears lose traction.
I keep saying I need to build a 1500-3k lbs ballast box for the 3pt. Would definitely make moving snow easier in the winter. As it is, I have to manage down pressure on the bucket to keep traction. As soon as I lift the bucket at all, the rears break free. Too much down pressure and the drag is more than the tires can manage and I break free. Chains make little different except to wear me out dragging them around to install them and they tear up my concrete drive pretty good, so now I try to manage without. It's been frustrating enough that I bought a little SxS and put a plow on it - it's 4x4 and we'll see how it does this winter. I have a Bolens Tubeframe mini-tractor with a blower, but it's a single stage and really works best with powder. I tried it year before last, but it was so wet and heavy that I wound up just plowing with it. That, and between branches and pinecones stuffing up the auger, I wound up having to repair the drive chain a half dozen times. A feat that requires disassembling the entire blower to get to. I think my best time is about 6 minutes now.. but I got tired of it. Might make more sense to use if I ever pave the driveway (unlikley).

I've seen lots of those photos too of CUTs (compact utility tractors) broken in half, or the bucket cylinders buckled from back-dragging. That's one of the benefits of using an older machine, they're built stupid heavy. I think my loader assembly weighs as much as today's 20 horse tractors do. My bucket cylinders are massive, not the skinny things that even my buddy's 30horse Mahindra came with. It's just the steering linkage and front end that's lightweight, but my model is meant for pulling not lifting.

One other downside is that either my clutch is done (or about to be), or it has a non-PTO clutch (common cheap swap) because my PTO don't stop with the clutch lever the way it's supposed to. Also, the exposed linkage for the clutch and brakes makes for a dangerous situation when managing slash. I've had wood get stuck in there and jam my clutch linkage so I either can't depress it or can't release it. Either one is bad, but I can yank either shifter into neutral easy enough after killing the throttle. I must've pinched about 4 holes in the seat by now.
 
You have to think about the backhoe itself, will likely lift the back of the tractor given the oppurtunity, but the majority of the abuse will be handled by the outriggers and the top link.
You could fabricate a bracket in place of the top link as there is no concern of lifting or lowering as there is no actual functioning 3 point hitch. Those 3 point hoes arent known for their power,but sure beats digging a hole with a shovel.
 
Made some great progress today, I busted my ***. Got all the pieces made for the top link and tomorrow I'll tack it together. Get some pictures. After I get that welded up, the hoe can go on the tractor!!!

I'm still contemplating if/ how to add bracing, but there is really precious little to fasten to on that thing. There's on forward bolt pair on the bull gear housings that attaches the front loader. I'm planning on pulling those bolts out (1 at a time) and making a tab to bolt to that, then weld the tab to the new frame. This will give a purchase a bit further forward. I may call it "good" at that point
 
It's 9PM and I JUST got in the door. I'm beat, I hurt, my back hurts and my leg calf hurts. I am crashed in the big chair.............................

Well it ain't "done done" but it is functional. Details to clean up, of course
Top two photos show the top link "emulation" of a 3 point. Plates clamp to axle to keep things aligned, main thrust is very heavy wall 1 1/2 tube up to the big boss on the side of the bell. I "tweeked" it over a little to allow my big foot to get to the clutch. Turns out plenty of room
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Below, dipper/ bucket pushing the rear off the ground. There isn't enough leverage/ pressure if the dipper is extended out much further. So this here is about the limit of "down."
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One of mounting ears. Inboard one is "u" slotted, outer bolts to it after hoe is diddled into place. 1/2" x 3" material
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Detail of the top link. The clamps don't hold much thrust, hopefully to protect the axle some. I only tightened them (nylock) with a short 3/8 drive----1/2" bolts
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The pump turned out to be "plenty tight" but it does clear. I should have mounted the hoe maybe another inch to rear
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Pads don't have enough "oomph" to lift this high, without a boost from the arm. But that's OK if I need it I'll do just that
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Just dug a hole in the back yard. Of course I have nothing to judge it against but I'm sayin' "success." I'm not hoe operator!!! (Well yet............) Hole is about 4 1/2 ft This "is" easy soil, fairly sandy

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