PRH
Well-Known Member
Maybe not what you had hoped, but still solid gains.
Is it all done? How much time do you have in it?
Speedmaster intake porting. Hopefully I can make something out of this
- Thread starter pittsburghracer
- Start date
-
Maybe not what you had hoped, but still solid gains.
Is it all done? How much time do you have in it?
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
@pittsburghracer
Can you or have you snap gauged between a rpm ag and the sm ag?
Can you or have you snap gauged between a rpm ag and the sm ag?
No I have not and I’ve never ran a dual plane. If I remember right a ran a Torquer around 1975-1977 or so then upgraded to a Offenhauser port o sonic. I ended up running 11.82 back in the late 70’s early 1980’s with my 340.
Time wise I honestly don’t know as I will grind for 20 minutes and spend 20 minutes on the internet I know I had over 4 hours on it probably closer to 6. I’m finished as far as I know unless I can find some detailed pictures of an LD340 and RPM intake. I think I lost all of my pictures on Photobucket but may double check.
@pittsburghracer
I have a RPM AG brand new sitting untouched, never bolted down or mounted. What would you like? PM me.
I have a RPM AG brand new sitting untouched, never bolted down or mounted. What would you like? PM me.
If possible could you give me a measurement of the opening (width and length) of the carb flange opening into the plenum. (one side) If anyone has an LD340 I could use the same info from it. THANKS!!!
While looking for my old Photobucket pictures for my buddies LD340 I found a few pictures of my Super Victor that I have sitting on my shelf. Looking at these pictures you will see why I always bad mouth the Super Victor intake. It isn't to SUPER out of the box as you can see by the smallish ports. I have gone 9.74 with this one after a lot of work on a very worn out 408.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yeah, when I was younger I didn’t mind having everything small so I could shape it how I wanted. Now, screw that. I’d rather be damn close to size for a little fluff and buff and send it.
I know for me to get what I think is a reasonable burr finish takes me much longer than just a paper roll finish.
So much for the burr finish being a time saver.
PRH
Well-Known Member
My version of “burr finish” is to just skip the sandpaper rolls.
So, for me...... it is a time saver.
I just use an old dull carbide for ferrous metals....... and call it good.
So, for me...... it is a time saver.
I just use an old dull carbide for ferrous metals....... and call it good.
Last edited:
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I like the finish, but how do you get the carbide thoughts out??? That’s the biggest issue I fight. No matter what I do, the walls are always wavy and there are troughs and ridges I can’t get smoothed down with a burr, so I hit them with a paper roll to get all that in shape.
My technique with the burr must suck.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I’ll take a picture of the burr I’m using to finish with when I get out there this afternoon. I don’t think it’s exactly the same as Larry Meaux or Chad Speier uses.
Another reminder of what you out of the box (Victor340) guys may be leaving on the table. Edelbrock 7276 intake gasket layout.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I rarely end up with troughs that need to be worked out........ and I find it’s easier to get them leveled out with coarser burrs as opposed to finer.
For aluminum heads, I use the non-ferrous burrs to get the porting roughed in........ then I’m just diminishing the surface roughness by using progressively less coarse burrs.
And then all I’m doing on the jobs that are getting the sanding roll’s is smoothing out the finish.
I try and do all the shaping with the burrs.
About the only place I might use a sanding roll for final shaping is the SSR.
It’s like most “skills”...... it takes practice to get good at it.
For aluminum heads, I use the non-ferrous burrs to get the porting roughed in........ then I’m just diminishing the surface roughness by using progressively less coarse burrs.
And then all I’m doing on the jobs that are getting the sanding roll’s is smoothing out the finish.
I try and do all the shaping with the burrs.
About the only place I might use a sanding roll for final shaping is the SSR.
It’s like most “skills”...... it takes practice to get good at it.
Last edited:
PRH
Well-Known Member
I use 3 out of those 4 the most.
For roughing aluminum I use the non-ferrous versions of the ovals.
I don’t even think I have one of those straight ones.
For roughing aluminum I use the non-ferrous versions of the ovals.
I don’t even think I have one of those straight ones.
Some guys are curious on time took so I worked for one hour and got the four ports shown above roughed in. Gasket match and most of the four runners at least 3/4 way to the plenum. The corners of these runners really need pushed over quite a bit so that was a big part of the time.
I had the same thing at first on the some of my early projects that I’ve worked on, but hit on a method that works pretty good for me to cut down on that from happening. Slowing down the cutter speed to where you can feel the cutter grabbing, along with faster tool motion (back and forth etc) and adjusting my pressure at the same time. I spend a lot less time trying to fix those ripples by not creating them, seems to happen when I get too greedy grinding
Last edited:
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Man that looks awesome! How much do you charge?? LOL I've got a BB Victor I need to send you to work on.
Man that looks awesome! How much do you charge?? LOL I've got a BB Victor I need to send you to work on.
Maybe one of these days I will start doing customer work again but I doubt it. Lol
Driver side is easiest, take note of the picture and how the plenum wall is under the top of the passenger side flange. Same sizes measured.
1.700 wide X 3.65
Geee, that looks familiar.
I used some of Edelbrock’s Gaska-chinch to glue the gasket on. It’s just like rubber cement.
-
