SS/B Barracuda project

[ssba]

Thanks...
Would an 8 qt oil pan, and a single system be correct?

8 qt. seems shallow to everything I have come across. Wouldnt suprise me if the
early pan I have is 12 qt. Haven't checked it yet. The cars were delivered
without a racing sump pan so they could be driven on and off a transporter.
It was expected of the racers to blueprint their engines and add their own racing
use pan. This is why there is differences in this area from car to car. Most teams
would of had engines already built that were running in another body from the previous
year. So these prepared engines would have been installed right away as the original engine
came out when cars were made available to them.
I have seen Lee Smith parts and milodon. But I have also seen home built pans
in aluminum and steel both.
Some with the sumps kicked out to the right side to hold more oil.
The bulletins show these pans but I don't have a date that the big bucket bulletin was first released.
I also don't know how many different pans have or haven't been used and when in the cars life
it would have got what. Everything I have seen has had external oiling. Most were milodon.
So all I have is what I have seen on the cars today after they have been restored or displayed
as last raced. I have had little luck finding much about milodons beginning to put a date on a
particular part. At least Milodon themselves were not helpful.
I myself have put most of my efforts to research a later date.
Best info I could find milodon oiling system was made first available in 69. It was
a big improvement for Hemi racers.
This came from an old magazine which can be some of the best information out there
when it comes to when a particular part was introduced.

 

[ssba]

The roll control kit of cause is a must. Thanks for reminding me.
As for the shifter handle, I think the one in the Authenticity Guide is the best choice.

I believe they chose the closest match to what was original out of what is available today.
I have tried to research and dig up the correct vintage parts but it can be very difficult.
I have noticed on most of the photos from 69 the line lock is a older style than what I have.
Even though my kits are dated from 68 & 69. For my car I plan to use what I have found.
If you don't have the part for your car yet look closely at the old photos to see the part they were
using then. I will dig up a photo to give you a reference on this.

 

[ssba]

Here's the part I am referring to. I believe this pre dates the line locks I have
but have seen this part a lot on these cars. I feel it would be a better choice for
your build. Perhaps someone here can shed some light on this part for you.
Sorry about the upside down photo again.
Computers are not my native tounge and has proven more difficult
for me than building a Hemi A-body.

 

[ssba]

Stefan, I looked thru some pictures for you and I did find a car or two without
the milodon external oiling. But most of the pictures I took did have.
You also mentioned cragars and roll bar for the barracuda. So here's some pictures for
your collection on that topic.
They are not great but I hope they help. I took pictures of the mounting points of the bar while he had the door open. You know you don't just go around opening doors or touching these cars so it was hard to get good interior pictures thru the glass. I think Lakewood made this type of bar back then. A few of the cars still have these in them.
This one was raced by Al Adamic in ssba. The cragars are on Jim Kramers ssb. I don't
remember who raced it right now. I don't believe it got raced very much. Of all the pictures
I have of the cars with cragars, this one appears to still have its wheel openings uncut. These cars are some of the better for reference as they didn't go thru so many updates. McVeys dart was another time capsule that was still as raced in 68 or 9 and could very well be the most original of the cars that remain. It didn't have the bar.

 

[ssba]

Lakewood advertising

 

[Plaschy]

Subscribed.


Btw, which part of Stockholm are you at? I live in Axelsberg, close to Mälarhöjden.

 

[SSing]

Subscribed.


Btw, which part of Stockholm are you at? I live in Axelsberg, close to Mälarhöjden.

Hi, Enköping actually

 

[Plaschy]

Well. Well. Well close. But not close enough. I'd love to see your car. You should come to MoStuff HQ at Frejgatan 89 , Stockholm. They're having a "fredagsöl" every last friday of the month until March. If you are on Facebook, search for Mostuff.

 

[SSing]

Lakewood advertising

Thanks ssba,
So much good info here. As I figured... the roll bar kind of support the pinon snubber? If I got it right.

 

[SSing]

I saw an reverse lock out devise, on e-bay having an "R" on the red knob. These cars don´t have any marking on the knob? Right?
I thing you can have or be without the shifter boot? I suppose most racers had the shifter mechanism covered?
Other than tachometer. Oil pressure and heat was the only instrument?

Without the rear seat, I need some more floor mats? Or was there a longer piece? Or floor pan was uncovered?

 

[ssba]

The R on the reverse lock out knob is how they are made. It is put on with
white paint or ink. Also a arrow.
The rear seat area has extra carpet without the jute padding. Kind of clunky
looking but lightweight was the plan.

 

[ssba]

Magazine Advertisement from 69.

 

[ssba]

Dick Landy under hood photo is also a good reference.

 

[ssba]

Seats removed from Sox & Martin barracuda before being scrapped.
Notice they fold and aluminum risers.

 

[ssba]

There are many detail things you can do to give the car the 68-9 feel you are after
like painting the headers white with vht or polishing the brass radiator top tank.
Using genuine sponsor decals from back then and a lacquer paint job with
cobwebbed panels. There were many paint tricks used back then and some of the work
done on these A-bodies is nothing short of spectacular. Chrysler left the cars in primer
to encourage such race paint. The picture is a wheelstander rather than a ssb but
is a good example of race car paint from the time.

 

[ssba]

If I had to put together a list of the most difficult items for a guy to reproduce on these
cars I would say the lightweight corning glass and acid dipped doors would
be at the top. I have yet to determine if the bumpers were acid dipped or stamped
from a lighter gauge steel. I have talked to owners about this and they said they
were uncertain.
They did omit the outer bumper brackets.
I do know guys who have had their doors dipped so I know it is possible. Not sure if the trunk
lids were done or not. It seems the research is never ending when involved with these projects.
The 4-speeds are another challenge being the red stripe gear sets were special parts and
are are a rare find today.
Firestone drag 500 slicks and fronts can be considered impossible to find but were commonly
used in this class. With as many vintage tires that are reproduced these have been overlooked.
Heater delete parts are few. But radio and door mirror block off plates are being made.
The list goes on but these could be considered a few of the tough spots.
Of course the more money you can feed a super stock build the easier it can progress.

 

[hemicop]

From what my friend that worked at Hurst at the time & in talking to several owners of these cars, The bumpers were dipped, rear decklid, no. The A100 seats had fixed backs, can't account for the S&M seats except to say it's typical Chrysler "quality control". The A100 seats in these cars had no welting along the edges, unlike the actual A100 seats in vans/trucks. The outside mirror delete plate is going to be a pain to find as there just wasn't too many vehicles even back then without an outside mirror.
One of the old "DeFrank & Cohen" cars was owned by a local and that car had thicker track welting in the doors to protect the glass---I think that's something the owner did however it WAS a good, invisible idea.

 

[SSing]

If I had to put together a list of the most difficult items for a guy to reproduce on these
cars I would say the lightweight corning glass and acid dipped doors would
be at the top. I have yet to determine if the bumpers were acid dipped or stamped
from a lighter gauge steel. I have talked to owners about this and they said they
were uncertain.
They did omit the outer bumper brackets.
I do know guys who have had their doors dipped so I know it is possible. Not sure if the trunk
lids were done or not. It seems the research is never ending when involved with these projects.
The 4-speeds are another challenge being the red stripe gear sets were special parts and
are are a rare find today.
Firestone drag 500 slicks and fronts can be considered impossible to find but were commonly
used in this class. With as many vintage tires that are reproduced these have been overlooked.
Heater delete parts are few. But radio and door mirror block off plates are being made.
The list goes on but these could be considered a few of the tough spots.
Of course the more money you can feed a super stock build the easier it can progress.

Yes, I have been thinking of chrome on fiber glass as front bumper, to get the vibrating effect. See how chrome color looks though.

I guess Lexan is the only way to on the side glass. Figured it would be possible to shape them in an oven laying on original glass.

Seats will be a challenge. I have two good core but need measurements since they don´t have the gap between back rest and the seat.
I find great pride and joy in fabricate parts and stuff when it can be done, without it effecting the overall appearance. Like spring front offset hanger. New build .80" and there are not enough spaces on my car.

I have seen a couple of heater delete plates. The one part of sheet metal all flat, and the two part solution, with a center part and an outer part.
Is one of them correct, sorry I will not use that word no more. In this case it can very well be both are... "correct"? What do you say???

 

[SSing]

From what my friend that worked at Hurst at the time & in talking to several owners of these cars, The bumpers were dipped, rear decklid, no. The A100 seats had fixed backs, can't account for the S&M seats except to say it's typical Chrysler "quality control". The A100 seats in these cars had no welting along the edges, unlike the actual A100 seats in vans/trucks. The outside mirror delete plate is going to be a pain to find as there just wasn't too many vehicles even back then without an outside mirror.
One of the old "DeFrank & Cohen" cars was owned by a local and that car had thicker track welting in the doors to protect the glass---I think that's something the owner did however it WAS a good, invisible idea.

Fixed back... good info there... And do I glue chrome trimming to the side glass since the Lexan I will be using only is 1/8"???

 

[SSing]

I will cover the A-100 seats in a special section later, with photo of what measurements is needed...

Edit
But when I come to think of it, I am quite sure I have seen a folded seat...
Again maybe both can be used...

 

[SSing]

The R on the reverse lock out knob is how they are made. It is put on with
white paint or ink. Also a arrow.
The rear seat area has extra carpet without the jute padding. Kind of clunky
looking but lightweight was the plan.

I need the size of the red knob anyone...
An engraver should be able to take care of the marking

 

[hemicop]

Fixed back... good info there... And do I glue chrome trimming to the side glass since the Lexan I will be using only is 1/8"???

The chrome trim would work. For the window tracks, I'd look & see if there's another car that uses a thicker track that would, naturally, have thicker trim in its tracks that you could use to accomadte the 1/8 Lexan. You may want to check through Hemmings 9if you'd like) as I'm certain I saw someplace is making the Corning glass.

 

[autoxcuda]

The chrome trim would work. For the window tracks, I'd look & see if there's another car that uses a thicker track that would, naturally, have thicker trim in its tracks that you could use to accomadte the 1/8 Lexan. You may want to check through Hemmings 9if you'd like) as I'm certain I saw someplace is making the Corning glass.

There was a place selling repro side Dart glass from Brazil. Brazil ran Darts with the same windows up to the 80's I think. Troy bought some for a great deal and they are thinner than stock. Cheap thinner repro glass = perfect! About halfway between Corning glass and factory glass!!

There's some FABO members here from Brazil. You might want to contact them.

Corning glass is not very practical. To take it that far, you better super detailed on EVERYTHING else

There doesn't seem to be a real SS car that is restored with extreme high detail that people are doing nowadays and reflecting the knowledge that is out there currently.

 

[ssba]

There doesn't seem to be a real SS car that is restored with extreme high detail that people are doing nowadays and reflecting the knowledge that is out there currently.[/QUOTE]

There is a lot of fact in this statement. There are a few guys who are restoring real cars and
trying very hard to return them to how they were by erasing years of updates. It is very costly for them to buy the original parts when they can find them. They search for years. There is a lot of uncertainty in areas and it can be difficult to get answers. I have found some guys who will share and some that won't.
Some who have these cars and some answers are secretive and don't particularly care for guys cloning these cars and they feel it is not good for the information to be known and could confuse or add counterfits the hobby. At least that is my take on them when I encounter this type.
Because of this I was kind of curious to see how many would contribute to to this thread and
and what would be revealed.
I would consider it impossible to build a car that was indistinguishable from the real McCoy.
If ever there was a car that truly was questionable in the eyes of the people in the know it would have to be a car that at some point sat next to a genuine and had many parts transfered
over as in a rebodied car.
What we can accomplish here with this thread will not fool the owners of these cars.
But we can build a likeness to enjoy that is more obtainable than the genuine article.
Along the same lines as cloning a formula S or GTS but I would say more difficult.
Some will be bothered by it some not.

 

[SSing]

The chrome trim would work. For the window tracks, I'd look & see if there's another car that uses a thicker track that would, naturally, have thicker trim in its tracks that you could use to accomadte the 1/8 Lexan. You may want to check through Hemmings 9if you'd like) as I'm certain I saw someplace is making the Corning glass.

Ok... I think I stick with Lexan, and maybe it would be possible to compress the chrome trim, and build up the the width of the track. The fat trim on the thin glass may look odd when I come to think of it.