Ss springs snubber guru's only no trolls

[godfatherofchry]

take the snuber out and throw it away and as far as you can or to a frend your trying to bête.........:violent1::violent1::violent1::violent1::finga:that thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!youuuuu don't need it un less your making biiiiiiiiiiibbbbbbig power with a 4speed and caring the wheels tell the bumper hits that's all im saying I don't think any of the origanl old racers have been on here yet they probly thinking this is in the joke section........that's how we could tell wen the chevy guys were cheting they would put our sprigs under there cars that was the only way to get the wheel hop out of them you no tham as super stock springs now.In my day that's what the race cars came with.thanks to deracet conetion ?you hrd of that right ??keep spending money that's how we got to go raceing.they called it sponsers then.haha :burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::hello2::hello2:so keep spending moooooneeeeeyand smoken thos tires unlees that's what you what to do we did it to inpress the kids wicth would proly be your grate mabe grate grate grandtfather have fun ether way....or buy the first blue d/c race books.put out buy dc.in the day cuse me and shepard wrote them if you know him or his name................Artie

 

[Locomotion]

What do you reccomend if you are experiencing wheel hop?

If you already have SS springs, then you need stiffer shocks. They dampen the extension & compression of the suspension. I had Mopar auto drag shocks with SS springs and under certain conditions, they went into pretty bad wheel hop. I put Rancho 5-way (old version, new is 9-way) and problem was solved. The harder your car launches, the stiffer shocks you need.

60' times isn't all in suspension. A LOT can be found in converter and carb tuning as well. I recently sent my "good" converter to be freshened up & put my back-up in. I didn't realize how much different it was (looser) and I lost around .02 in 60' and .10-.15 in the 1/8 mile! I have run 1.47 60' times, 7.0's @ almost 95 mph on 9" slicks weighing 3,540 + lbs. IHRA Stock legal 360 crate motor.

 

[emnestor]

If you already have SS springs, then you need stiffer shocks. They dampen the extension & compression of the suspension. I had Mopar auto drag shocks with SS springs and under certain conditions, they went into pretty bad wheel hop. I put Rancho 5-way (old version, new is 9-way) and problem was solved. The harder your car launches, the stiffer shocks you need.


I have SS springs with the mopar shocks. My car is a 4 speed car. Guess Ill try those Ranchos Thanks

 

[crackedback]

If you already have SS springs, then you need stiffer shocks. They dampen the extension & compression of the suspension. I had Mopar auto drag shocks with SS springs and under certain conditions, they went into pretty bad wheel hop. I put Rancho 5-way (old version, new is 9-way) and problem was solved. The harder your car launches, the stiffer shocks you need.

60' times isn't all in suspension. A LOT can be found in converter and carb tuning as well. I recently sent my "good" converter to be freshened up & put my back-up in. I didn't realize how much different it was (looser) and I lost around .02 in 60' and .10-.15 in the 1/8 mile! I have run 1.47 60' times, 7.0's @ almost 95 mph on 9" slicks weighing 3,540 + lbs. IHRA Stock legal 360 crate motor.

Yes to the bold or possibly longer shocks. The rancho/calvert shocks work really well on SS sprung cars.

We've never run a snubber... EVER. Cars going 1.40 or better. If the springs are in good shape and well set up, a snubber is nothing more than a band aid. Clamp the crap out of the front segments (rock solid) and loosen the rear up.

 

[godfatherofchry]

the old hemi belvedere we used to run ran 10.40`s to 10.80`s dependeing on the tires and the track(both were bad back then) hardly ever got it to hook consistently. we tried variuos snubber settings and diff. snubbers, it would destroy all of them, we finally took it off, "didn`t make a bit of diff.":coffee2:
when the car hooked it would carry the front wheels all the way thru 1st gear, about a foot high. I`ll never forget that feeling, brings tears to my eyes even. were 002-003 superstock springs, they were a little too light for that car, and it would killl them quite regularly, but that`s what we had to work w/ back then-------------bob[/quo X2..............Artie

 

[Hyper_pak]

I worked with an old Chrysler guy, Dave Lewis AKA Big Red, in the mid 70's. I had a 70 Challenger TA with a 440 and a 4 speed. After cutting the driveshaft in half Dave helped me with my rear setup. We got rid of the snubber completely, put 002 and 003 springs in with the longer front spring hangers and LONG shocks. The long shocks let the springs work and the SS springs would plant the tires real nice. Make sure your pinion angle is right, we had 7 to 8 degrees nose down on a 4 speed car and I never had any problem. I was running a stock 440, 67 magnum, and the car ran consistent 12.80's in 1975. Small horsepower, small budget!
Just a little sidebar, I sold the car in 80 to put a down payment on my first house. Best move I ever made, but I miss that car. Panther Pink, 4 speed, less than 40k miles.

 

[godfatherofchry]

I worked with an old Chrysler guy, Dave Lewis AKA Big Red, in the mid 70's. I had a 70 Challenger TA with a 440 and a 4 speed. After cutting the driveshaft in half Dave helped me with my rear setup. We got rid of the snubber completely, put 002 and 003 springs in with the longer front spring hangers and LONG shocks. The long shocks let the springs work and the SS springs would plant the tires real nice. Make sure your pinion angle is right, we had 7 to 8 degrees nose down on a 4 speed car and I never had any problem. I was running a stock 440, 67 magnum, and the car ran consistent 12.80's in 1975. Small horsepower, small budget!
Just a little sidebar, I sold the car in 80 to put a down payment on my first house. Best move I ever made, but I miss that car. Panther Pink, 4 speed, less than 40k miles.

:sign3::sign3::cheers::cheers::cheers::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef:

 

[godfatherofchry]

Yes to the bold or possibly longer shocks. The rancho/calvert shocks work really well on SS sprung cars.

We've never run a snubber... EVER. Cars going 1.40 or better. If the springs are in good shape and well set up, a snubber is nothing more than a band aid. Clamp the crap out of the front segments (rock solid) and loosen the rear up.

:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef:

 

[godfatherofchry]

If you already have SS springs, then you need stiffer shocks. They dampen the extension & compression of the suspension. I had Mopar auto drag shocks with SS springs and under certain conditions, they went into pretty bad wheel hop. I put Rancho 5-way (old version, new is 9-way) and problem was solved. The harder your car launches, the stiffer shocks you need.

60' times isn't all in suspension. A LOT can be found in converter and carb tuning as well. I recently sent my "good" converter to be freshened up & put my back-up in. I didn't realize how much different it was (looser) and I lost around .02 in 60' and .10-.15 in the 1/8 mile! I have run 1.47 60' times, 7.0's @ almost 95 mph on 9" slicks weighing 3,540 + lbs. IHRA Stock legal 360 crate motor.

:thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::thumblef::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I have old 002 003 springs on my Duster. I like them. I purchased a new set of 002 003 springs They are totally different spring's compared to what I have. The old set leans the car. the new set does not . Why are they different and which is better?. They are both for the same weight.

 

[godfatherofchry]

I have a couple of buddies that switched to Cal-tracs and they really improved their cars, and how they hook...but I think every car is a bit different. There's a lot of racers that swear by them...

next to the s/s springs this is ################1UNLESS YOUR RUNNIG FASTER THAN 9.000000000S THE CALTRACKS ARE THE TICKET...........OF CORSE I HAVENT RACED SENCE THE 80S ITS HARD TELL WHATS OUT THERE............:thumblef::thumblef::thumblef:.........Artie

 

[66340SEDAN]

If you already have SS springs, then you need stiffer shocks. They dampen the extension & compression of the suspension. I had Mopar auto drag shocks with SS springs and under certain conditions, they went into pretty bad wheel hop. I put Rancho 5-way (old version, new is 9-way) and problem was solved. The harder your car launches, the stiffer shocks you need.


I have SS springs with the mopar shocks. My car is a 4 speed car. Guess Ill try those Ranchos Thanks

Lots of good info here, Crackedback & Abodybomber both told me to ditch the snubber and add spring clamps. Here is more about my current combo:

1966 Valiant, 340 4-speed, 8.75 with 4.10 gears, MP SS springs, Mopar A-Body drag shocks, MP adjustable snubber. The rear tires are 255/60R15 M/T Street ET drag radials, engine dynod 300 HP at the rear wheels.

My car gets wheel hop at the track with the snubber adjusted to the floor, but does better on the street. If I lower the snubber down a notch, it gets real bad wheel hop on the street, especially if I run regular radial tires and not the M/T's. I have a NOS Direct Connection spring clamp kit I bought but have not installed it yet. I plan to ditch the snubber but this is also the first time I read that my shocks might needed to be upgraded due to wheel hop. The Rancho adjustable ones sound good, any idea what they cost and is there a part number to use in the A-Body? :glasses7:

Thanks guys!!! :burnout:

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

Lots of good info here, Crackedback & Abodybomber both told me to ditch the snubber and add spring clamps. Here is more about my current combo:

1966 Valiant, 340 4-speed, 8.75 with 4.10 gears, MP SS springs, Mopar A-Body drag shocks, MP adjustable snubber. The rear tires are 255/60R15 M/T Street ET drag radials, engine dynod 300 HP at the rear wheels.

My car gets wheel hop at the track with the snubber adjusted to the floor, but does better on the street. If I lower the snubber down a notch, it gets real bad wheel hop on the street, especially if I run regular radial tires and not the M/T's. I have a NOS Direct Connection spring clamp kit I bought but have not installed it yet. I plan to ditch the snubber but this is also the first time I read that my shocks might needed to be upgraded due to wheel hop. The Rancho adjustable ones sound good, any idea what they cost and is there a part number to use in the A-Body? :glasses7:

Thanks guys!!! :burnout:

Sounds like your shocks may be to short. As your car is trying to plant the tires the shocks may be reaching there extended level.

 

[godfatherofchry]

Lots of good info here, Crackedback & Abodybomber both told me to ditch the snubber and add spring clamps. Here is more about my current combo:

1966 Valiant, 340 4-speed, 8.75 with 4.10 gears, MP SS springs, Mopar A-Body drag shocks, MP adjustable snubber. The rear tires are 255/60R15 M/T Street ET drag radials, engine dynod 300 HP at the rear wheels.

My car gets wheel hop at the track with the snubber adjusted to the floor, but does better on the street. If I lower the snubber down a notch, it gets real bad wheel hop on the street, especially if I run regular radial tires and not the M/T's. I have a NOS Direct Connection spring clamp kit I bought but have not installed it yet. I plan to ditch the snubber but this is also the first time I read that my shocks might needed to be upgraded due to wheel hop. The Rancho adjustable ones sound good, any idea what they cost and is there a part number to use in the A-Body? :glasses7:

Thanks guys!!! :burnout:

order a set of shockes for just say a 66 cornett SW they are about 3inch. longer is what we yoused no gas shockes unless the new race shokes are non gas the last place I knew had them was year1 not cheap thow Artie

 

[godfatherofchry]

and if it has a sway bar up front unhook it or throw it away to unless your road raceing..........

 

[Inertia]

Looking at your avatar,, is that the way the car sits when you go to the track ?

 

[Darter6]

Old school (That applies to Me) I ran 002,003's on a 67 Dart Auto trans,5,000 converter3.73 gears 2600 lbs with about 250 or so Rear wheel HP. With or without a snubber it made no difference.Back in 1973 at a Ohio Direct Connection seminar we were told Not to use the snubber with SS springs.Back then I ran a bracket 63 Belvedere with who knows what number SS springs,rear clamps removed. NOW they have a thing called "Track Prep" with that eso-grepo tire gunk that is sooo sticky that it pulls you shoes off your feet when you walk on it. That may be a whole different ball game on what and what not to use. That's if your track uses the stuff. Vegas they spray the full 1/4 mile.
Ten years ago my NSS-E 65 Plymouth had stock springs with the front clamped. About 420 RR HP,3500 Stall converter 4.10's 3800 lbs and would run 11.90's WITH a snubber. I did break 2 leafs on the passanger side before I went to SS springs. Sold the car before it ever hit the track with them. Oh ya.All cars had the longer rear shocks (Chrysler Imperial had the longest known)

 

[Locomotion]

The Rancho adjustable ones sound good, any idea what they cost and is there a part number to use in the A-Body? :glasses7:

Thanks guys!!! :burnout:

The Ranchos on my Dart Sport are RS9114 (old 5 way) I believe the newer 9-way are RS99114. Same size bushings top & bottom. I don't know what the stud size is up top on the earlier cars. I believe the cost around $100.00. But it always helps to shop around. Newest models may be RS999114.

This page may help with specs: [ame]http://www.gorancho.com/assets/catalog/Rancho_Suspension_2010_Master_Catalog_Supplement.pdf[/ame]

There are more race oriented shocks that should work as well. HD, OEM replacements, whether they be for trucks, station wagons or big cars, will still likely be too "soft" to properly control the rear suspension with a high stall converter or a stick.

 

[66340SEDAN]

The Ranchos on my Dart Sport are RS9114 (old 5 way) I believe the newer 9-way are RS99114. Same size bushings top & bottom. I don't know what the stud size is up top on the earlier cars. I believe the cost around $100.00. But it always helps to shop around. Newest models may be RS999114.

This page may help with specs: http://www.gorancho.com/assets/catalog/Rancho_Suspension_2010_Master_Catalog_Supplement.pdf

There are more race oriented shocks that should work as well. HD, OEM replacements, whether they be for trucks, station wagons or big cars, will still likely be too "soft" to properly control the rear suspension with a high stall converter or a stick.

Thanks!

 

[crackedback]

If you can, pull the shocks from your shock plates, jack rear up so it's hanging. Once hanging extend shock fully and it needs to be at least 1" longer than if connected to shock plate pin. If it's not, the shocks may be too short.

Shock length, pinion angle and rear shackle hanger angle are some of the most common issues when running SS springs.

 

[Abodybomber]

^^^ This . Don't spend the coin,if you don't need to. Every car is different.