Started 5.2 magnum swap/65 Dodge Dart,/6 4spd convert..but....

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mycuda

mycuda

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Feel stupid/ Dimentia maybe...LOL Started to break in cam open pipes.
Ran good. Didnt have time light on. Had float issues with electric fuel pump,got that fixed.
Went to start again today to finish break in.... no spark...WTF.
Checked all wiring from starter relay,fusible link, ballast resister.
Changed coil cause got hot. same result......
Only thing could think of is ecu box fried?
It was a good unit I thought........ ran 10 minutes. gauge in car showed charging alternator.
Battery new? All 4 fuses replaced...LOL

Please show my stupidity somewhere.... done for nite

D.
 
I don't think you need to break in roller cams....
 
what year 5.2 magnum....as you are NOT EFI..what ignition setup are you currently working with..may help folks arrive at a conclusion
 
Need raw data.
Battery voltage
Resistance at ballast resistors
Coil resistance
Etc
 
bigaadams said:
what year 5.2 magnum....as you are NOT EFI..what ignition setup are you currently working with..may help folks arrive at a conclusion
Click to expand...
1991 5.2 magnum
carb convert 600 holley vac. secondary.
mopar electronic ignition. silver controller.
w/ distributor
 
walk over you electrical connection hand over hand carefully and DO ensure that your grounds are indeed, good clean tight grounds...for those components that are mounted to a firewall and those that are mounted the engine....have you inspected and ensured the ground from the engine to the chassis/body are in place and again, clean and tight.
 
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would a regulator prevent a car from starting? I drove 3 miles with no belt, not alot of charging with a stationary alternator but it ran. The regulator/alternator is just a bridge tap off your battery to ignition leg. Do you have continuity from ECU case to ground?
upload_2018-8-27_22-43-21.png
 
changed coil again added ground wire to chassis. tried bypass BR.
still 8 volts at + coil in start position.
cleaned ecu mount ground as well
no spark. yesterday yes.ran goof

ignition switch? ecu gone?.

????????
 
if the regulator was a points style, it turns on and off, this could burn out the ECU. Mopar made a regulator for the early style that was electronic.
I had the same misfortune in a previous vehicle. where in Chicago/metro area are you? if during garage cleaning this week I come across a regulator and ECU, you are welcome to try them...just don't hold your breath, unless you want to help with cleaning?:lol:
 
it is easy to unplug the VR and the alternator field and that will totally unload the circuit powering the ECU IF YOU think it is causing problem, I would think not personally. In start position the 12 volts is applied directly to the coil as shown in the above diagram but you should have this lead powered from the starter relay....the 8 approx. volts on the coil is normal run voltage as it is dropped across the resistor and to be honest with you should start be enough to provide fire when the field collapses....I would suspect and ask you to first determine if your hall effect pickup in the distributor is good. I have found that in majority of non fire this to be the culprit preventing and it is inexpensive and easy to replace and I always recommend a spare in the car along with the spare resistor...Most resistors are damaged by water when hot and it is raining and the hood opens washing it was water...they cannot withstand the shock of instant cooling. Often one can tap the distributor housing and this shock will allow the pickup to work but that is only a manner to test....not always 100% reactive...
 
abdywgn said:
if the regulator was a points style, it turns on and off, this could burn out the ECU. Mopar made a regulator for the early style that was electronic.
I had the same misfortune in a previous vehicle. where in Chicago/metro area are you? if during garage cleaning this week I come across a regulator and ECU, you are welcome to try them...just don't hold your breath, unless you want to help with cleaning?:lol:
Click to expand...
Cary area
 
abdywgn said:
if the regulator was a points style, it turns on and off, this could burn out the ECU. Mopar made a regulator for the early style that was electronic.
I had the same misfortune in a previous vehicle. where in Chicago/metro area are you? if during garage cleaning this week I come across a regulator and ECU, you are welcome to try them...just don't hold your breath, unless you want to help with cleaning?:lol:
Click to expand...

Update.
ECU burned out from points style regulator. You were correct.
Bought proper regulator starts, runs, as before. However, Not charging? It was with other regulator?????? (Everything grounded properly)

Thanks, Dave
 
Dave, when you say not charging, is the dash gauge showing no charge? What is the voltage at the battery with the car running? You could also check the back bearing of the alternator for charging: if a screwdriver attaches to the bearing cap on the back of the alt, it is charging. Proper voltage, maybe. If you do the screwdriver test, careful not to touch anything else. Does your alternator have 2 or 3 wires attached to it? Bob
 
abdywgn said:
Dave, when you say not charging, is the dash gauge showing no charge? What is the voltage at the battery with the car running? You could also check the back bearing of the alternator for charging: if a screwdriver attaches to the bearing cap on the back of the alt, it is charging. Proper voltage, maybe. If you do the screwdriver test, careful not to touch anything else. Does your alternator have 2 or 3 wires attached to it? Bob
Click to expand...

magnum alternator.2 wires. 1 hot,green to 1field, other field to ground.
jumped VR wires together gauge shows charge.regular hooked up no charge? VR is grounded and second new one bought.
 
mycuda said:
magnum alternator.2 wires. 1 hot,green to 1field, other field to ground.
jumped VR wires together gauge shows charge.regular hooked up no charge? VR is grounded and second new one bought.
Click to expand...

I even ran additional groun from battety to VR housing.
Dont make sense unless VR no good new?
#2.
 
I remember my 69 Dart had 1 brush with a wire hook up and I think the other was removed, I don't think it was grounded. Is the car running in either condition and what is the actual voltage at the battery?
 
abdywgn said:
I remember my 69 Dart had 1 brush with a wire hook up and I think the other was removed, I don't think it was grounded. Is the car running in either condition and what is the actual voltage at the battery?
Click to expand...
I'm going to go exchange the voltage regulator since I read on the internet that this type of aftermarket had a bad batch and I'll get back to you later today with the voltage if it doesn't work thanks
 
Just replace voltage regulator same thing no charge grounding out the terminals on the voltage regulator is charging 17 volts and alternator.batteries 12.2v. alternators 11.8v with the key on and when running????

vr is grounded...????
 
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