Starter Clearance Issues

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rod7515

rod7515

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Another challenge for me to over come! If you have read any of my posts I am working on a 66 Dart. I am trying to get a starter that will work with my 360 block, 904 trans and TTI headers. The one I have now is a NAPA mini starter for a 91 Dokota. I took it back and we compared to the other mini starters for different Dodges and the only difference is the wire terminal connector setups. My issue is that the starter is just touching the block which is holding the starter from mounting flush. Its very close, about an 1/8" gap where the top bolt for the starter would go in. I cant get a pic of this as theres no room for camera to focus but take my word for it! lol.

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Has anyone else had this interference and if so what did you do? Grind some of that away? That hole has what looks to be a plug about 1/2" up inside it so it wont effect anything as far as the plug. Im assuming some type of oil galley? Now even if I grind some material away then the next issue will be how close it is to the headers. I know that early A Bodies are tight but this is very close. Yes I can always ding the header some to create some space and if thats my option I will. those pipes dont bend as I tried to do that on the frame rail side and I ended up dinging one of the tubes for clearance there.

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Is there a different style of starter available?
Thanks
Rod
 
HI CALL tti they know what starter will fit .I can not remember we put 360 4 speed in 65 barracuda with tti headers and the starter had all kinds of room thanks steve
 
Wow, that's crazy tight starter and frame rail. Then, are you gonna have any issues with the starter getting heat soak. I know those headers are ceramic and all, but.....




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I had the same issue with a set of CPPA headers. Believe it or not I solved it by using a full size starter! Sounds crazy but it worked.
 
TTI may have a nice little expensive starter to fix your problem. That's one of the reasons that I haven't tried them yet. I don' t want to have to run a special small expensive starter.


Also, is this the 1/2" hole that you are referring to in the picture below? That is a manufacturing locator hole used to position the block during machining. It is no longer needed now, you may grind away at it as you need....

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....................I think some ppl have had problems with the nose not fitting into the recess in the bell housing....and have did a little grinding on the nose or in the bell.....kim........
 
I believe that there may be different starter castings. I had that problem once many years ago and ground the block and starter. Unfortunately, I don't recall anything about the starter. I haven't had a problem before or since then with other 360/904 combinations.
I believe that the room the TTI headers provid allowed me to get a 4" grinder in there.
 
Maybe a clockable starter will fix your problem, it fixed my problem when there was no way to get the MP mini starter to fit in my car.
Check out robbmc starter website www.robbmcperformance.com , only problem is most clockable starters cost huge.
 

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SGBARRACUDA said:
I had the same issue with a set of CPPA headers. Believe it or not I solved it by using a full size starter! Sounds crazy but it worked.
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Makes sence since the motor on the big starter is forward more and the big one is narrow where that header tube is.



oldkimmer said:
............yes there I at least 2 different starters...........kim.............
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At least three I'm pretty sure.
 
TrailBeast said:
Makes sence since the motor on the big starter is forward more and the big one is narrow where that header tube is.

Yup I had tried a mini starter like the OP did and it hit the block and the headers. I was kinda surprised when the big old factory starter cleared. Now if it ever needs a new starter? I'll be paying someone to change it!
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From TTI's website:
Chrysler mini starters: R53005984, 56027702AC
Mopar Performance starters: P5249644AB, P5007860, P4286522
Note: Applications with an 10.5" flywheel 130-tooth ring gear must use a RobbMc Performance starter: 3005
 
i'll try the original starter tomorrow night. To be honest I would have never tried that if you wouldnt have said it worked for you. I remember from when I bought the headers that I needed a mini starter but I didnt remember that they gave actual part numbers. looks like this could get expensive if the original one doesnt fit. I had Steve, foxmopar585 who is a member on here texted me and he confirmed that using a clocked starter will work. Thanks for everyones help. I will update my solution once I finally get it taken care of. In the meantime if there are any other fixes please continue to post.
Thanks
Rod
 
I tried the original starter today and it did not fit so I decided to grind the edge of the block where the starter rubbed. This allowed the mini starter to fit but the clearance for the header pipe was only about 1/16". So I did what many are gonna think is the unthinkable! I took out the torch, heated the header pipe and created clearance with a hammer. I just decided that I was not going to spend another $300 for a clockable starter. It created about 1/4" of starter clearance. I think this will be enough clearance that it doesnt create a hot starting issue. Its not the first time I have heated and bent a header pipe over the years, but I bought these because they are supposed to fit. The drivers side had so many issues and when I called TTI I was told they have made hundreds of these on the same jig so there is no way they could have been bent or welded incorrectly. The good thing is they are now on and I can move forward with my build. The bad thing is my $750 headers had to be altered and I could have done that with some cheaper headers. I touched up the heated bent area with some Por15 aluminum epoxy paint and from the top you cant see the adjustment.
Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and Ideas.
Rod
 
rod7515 said:
I tried the original starter today and it did not fit so I decided to grind the edge of the block where the starter rubbed. This allowed the mini starter to fit but the clearance for the header pipe was only about 1/16". So I did what many are gonna think is the unthinkable! I took out the torch, heated the header pipe and created clearance with a hammer. I just decided that I was not going to spend another $300 for a clockable starter. It created about 1/4" of starter clearance. I think this will be enough clearance that it doesnt create a hot starting issue. Its not the first time I have heated and bent a header pipe over the years, but I bought these because they are supposed to fit. The drivers side had so many issues and when I called TTI I was told they have made hundreds of these on the same jig so there is no way they could have been bent or welded incorrectly. The good thing is they are now on and I can move forward with my build. The bad thing is my $750 headers had to be altered and I could have done that with some cheaper headers. I touched up the heated bent area with some Por15 aluminum epoxy paint and from the top you cant see the adjustment.
Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and Ideas.
Rod
Click to expand...


When I have a clearance issue with a header or exhaust I buy a piece of 1/8" or 1/4" silicone sheet. It doesn't cost very much but can withstand tremendous temperatures and is a very poor conductor of heat. I also buy the silicone tubing it's about 1/16" thick, I use it for my starter cables as they run close to my exhaust after I installed the 2004R trans and 340 manifold. You can't see the starter cable in the pics but you can see that the small starter came pretty close to my exhaust, it wasn't too close and I haven't have any heat soak starter issues at all. Also, the mini Dakota starter is wider than the Factory (69 Barracuda) starter. The mini starter stuck out further toward the driver's side


treblig
 

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