Starting to assemble but?

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rusty

rusty

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I finally got my block,crank,rods,pistons,bearings and rings from the machine shop 3 weeks after he said it would be done! I set the crank in and put on the plastigage,torqued down the main caps and measured the clearance,he turned the crank so I expected good measurements but this is what I got #1 .003 #2 .002 #3 .0015 #4 .0015 #5 .0015. My book shows its supposed to be .0005 to .002.What do you guys think?
 
Sounds like he turned the front too much. Have you remeasured? Make sure you dont spin the crank with the plasticgauge inside? Perhaps you can try a different set of bearings. You might need to go with undersized bearings.
 
Remeasured twice and came up with the same thing,I am reading the book right
the specs are .0005 to .002 correct? This guy told me the work he was doing would be a week and a half then he had my stuff for 4 weeks and now I have to take it back and wait longer! Not happy! I will measure again in the morning before I do anything else.
 
So when I remeasure again in the morning I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.I place a piece of plastigage on the shaft journal all 5 at the same time,torque them @ 85ft lbs starting at the 3rd one and work my way out.Then I just remove the caps and measure,correct?
 
rusty said:
So when I remeasure again in the morning I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.I place a piece of plastigage on the shaft journal all 5 at the same time,torque them @ 85ft lbs starting at the 3rd one and work my way out.Then I just remove the caps and measure,correct?
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I would torque all the caps, then plastic gauge them one at a time.

Or else torque the cap with a bearing in it and then measure it with mirometers, then measure the crank with micrometers.

I would take the crank to him and ask him to measure it with micrometers in front of me to verify that all of the journals are the proper diameter. Mark down all of the measurements, then ask him if any are different than the others.

Keep in mind, that you should only torque the bolts 5 times, then I would replace them as they may get too much stretch after that.
 
krazykuda said:
I would torque all the caps, then plastic gauge them one at a time.

Or else torque the cap with a bearing in it and then measure it with mirometers, then measure the crank with micrometers.

I would take the crank to him and ask him to measure it with micrometers in front of me to verify that all of the journals are the proper diameter. Mark down all of the measurements, then ask him if any are different than the others.

Keep in mind, that you should only torque the bolts 5 times, then I would replace them as they may get too much stretch after that.
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Can you just replace the main bolts if they've been done more than 5 times? What about rod bolts? Ive always heard if you replace bolts that the rods will need resized?
 
rusty said:
Can you just replace the main bolts if they've been done more than 5 times? What about rod bolts? Ive always heard if you replace bolts that the rods will need resized?
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You can replace the main bolts.

When you replace the rod bolts, you have to get the rods re-machined. The knurl on the shoulder of the rod bolt locates the cap on the rod. Changing the bolt, will change the location of the rod and cap. This can cause the cap and rod to bind on the crank. So when you change the rod bolts, you have to have the bore remachined to compensate for the new alignment of the cap and rod due to the new bolts.
 
rusty said:
I finally got my block,crank,rods,pistons,bearings and rings from the machine shop 3 weeks after he said it would be done! I set the crank in and put on the plastigage,torqued down the main caps and measured the clearance,he turned the crank so I expected good measurements but this is what I got #1 .003 #2 .002 #3 .0015 #4 .0015 #5 .0015. My book shows its supposed to be .0005 to .002.What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

What is the intent of this Engine.
* Daily Driver, with an occasional blast.
* Street Performance
* Street/Strip
* Hot Street
* Other
 
the main bore in the block could be big. also it could be the bearings, try the bearings from 4 in position 1. too tight would be a no no, hi performance / hi rpm engines go .001" per inch of shaft diameter. if it is the crank, and say it is .010" under, u can't get an .011" bearing, and the crank would need to go .020", no big deal. or run it, 1 bearing with .003" will only give u SLIGHTLY less oil pressure
 
I took the crank back to the machinist,he is turning it to .020 on the mains and swapping me bearings.Also went and got some new main bolts.
 
Yeah,not real happy with the machine shop! First he told me a week and a half and took 4 weeks and he only turned down the rod journals to .010 the mains were already .010.Somebody had been in this motor before and put new .010 main bearings in it but left the stock ORIGINAL rod bearings in it!
 
So the machinist made it right its all good now as far as the mains go.I checked the rods and all except 8 measured .001 to .0015 #8 measured .002 what is the limit?
 
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