Startup Procedire ?'s

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strange246

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Ok can someone give me a step by step rundown on startup/break in procedure? It's been a very long time since I started a new motor for the first time and dont want to forget anything!
Motor:
.030 over 440, 11.5-1 compression, Eddy heads, MSD 6AL, MP distributor, Comp Extreme Energy cam .509 intake, .510 exhaust, Schumacher headers, RPM intake, Mighty Demon carb

I have oil in the motor (Rotella 30wt and a bottle of Comp Cams Break in Additive), cooling system is full, t-stat pulled out, all wires hooked up etc, I plan to prime the oil system before startup, and I know to run it at 2-3,000 rpm for 20 mins, fuel tank will have 10 gallons of CAM2 in it...

#1 What do I want the timing set at once it fires?

#2 What if anything else to watch for/or do?

Thanks
Ryan
 
You are covering the bases well. You want it to start and run as quickly as possible to avoid cam and lifter damage. Be sure the carb is full of fuel and give the pump arm a push and see that the squirter is working. Set the idle screw so that you know it will run at least at 1,500 rpm once it does fire. Be sure to check the rotor position relative to the number one spark plug tower to be sure you have some advance. Check that you have sufficient voltage at the coil with ignition on. Tighten the distributor hold down just enough so you can move it.
Once the engine starts, listen for any bad sounds and read the oil pressure. Look for obvious leaks. If all is good and the engine is at least at 1,500 rpm (you don't need 2,500 or 3,000), put the timing light on it. It should have total advance all in and set it for 34 degrees. If you are not using a timing light, use a vacuum gauge and set the distributor at the highest reading.
If the timing was retarded at startup, the header tubes will be unusually hot. Give each tube a "spit test" to verify even heat. You should be all set. If you are using adjustable rocker arms, let it cool off a little and then pull the valve covers. It is good to check here for anything that might have loosened or taken a seat or took a poop! Good luck!
Pat:cheers:
 
Great advice Pat!

The only thing I can think to add is to be sure you have a fire extinguisher nearby. Not that I expect you've done anything wrong LOL but just as a little bit of insurance .... you wouldn't want all of that hard work to turn into a yard toast experiment.

Good luck! Let us know how she runs.
 
^ Good Stuff, Cudachick...thats the only thing I thought to add....Fire Extenguisher.

You can never be too safe when starting up a brand new engine....and if anything goes south you'll be prepared.

FABO really has some knowledgable people, ready to help!
 
I'm thinkin put the thermostat back in,it might run to hot without it.I run a house fan in front of the radiator to make sure things dont get to hot on me.Ide double check every nut and bolt before firing it,especially anything to do with the fuel system.and I used a aftermarket temp gauge,just put the end of it right in the radiator to have it handy and kept an eye on it

fanand tempgauge.JPG
 
DO NOT RUN IT WITHOUT THE THERMOSTAT, 180 deg preferrably. The coolant flow will be so high that the coolant will not pull heat from the block or disipate it into the rad and will in all likehood over heat and boil over. The coolant needs retention time to do its job. Everything else looks good. I usually start mine with about 12 deg of initial timing.

Terry
 
Some guys say run a thermostat, and others say don't. You want the engine to get up operating temps as quickly as possible.

Another thing I like to do, and it may be trivial, is to use straight water instead of coolant. If you do have a leak, it's alot easier to clean up. Ask me how I know:angry7:

Have an extra set of eyes or two helping you too.

Oh, and save the beer for the party AFTER it's all done.:cheers:

good luck

codfish
 
I use a tstat, I do use water, not coolant. I dont fill it to the top, but leave about 2" open in the radiator, and have a hose or 2 gallons of water nearby to top off as it goes down initially. I leave the cap on but not tightened because it tends to bubble over and the fan grabs it from there...lol.

I leave the distributor still while the cam is breaking in, and generally it's somewhere between zero and 10° advanced.

What for leaks, and make sure you are not pre-oiling with the starter motor driving the oil pump. Use a shaft, and turn the engine over a couple times by hand while the pump is being turned by the drill.

On your heads and that Comp cams... Did you stick with Edelbbrock springs? Because they may be too light in terms of pressures for what the cam wants. However, for first starting, you do not want the heavier dual springs in place if you want your cam to live. So if you are running the correct Comp dual springs on the RPM heads, you should remove the inner spting prior to initial startup, and then reinstall them after the cam's had a chance to break in.
 
Thanks guys! I'm shooting for Sunday to fire it up! I'll post results LOL

On your heads and that Comp cams... Did you stick with Edelbbrock springs? Because they may be too light in terms of pressures for what the cam wants. However, for first starting, you do not want the heavier dual springs in place if you want your cam to live. So if you are running the correct Comp dual springs on the RPM heads, you should remove the inner spting prior to initial startup, and then reinstall them after the cam's had a chance to break in.


I took the heads to my machine shop to have them checked over, everything was mint, and the springs were identical to what Comp reccomended for the cam...Pressure etc...

Ryan
 
After break in stay away from the Rotella oil, from what I understand (and have seen) it allows a lot of engine sludge buildup. There's an additive you can get that has the zinc and what not in it called ZDD Plus, good stuff.
 
the thermostat won't open till it get's to 180 degrees so running it won't be a problem and if you want it to get warm quicker put a towel in front of the radiator till it get's warm then remove the towel.and using water is a good idea too! after you run it for a while and got it broke in you can flushe the system after cooldown to make sure no debris in there before you install coolant,Good thread you started this should be helpful to all
Some guys say run a thermostat, and others say don't. You want the engine to get up operating temps as quickly as possible.

Another thing I like to do, and it may be trivial, is to use straight water instead of coolant. If you do have a leak, it's alot easier to clean up. Ask me how I know:angry7:

Have an extra set of eyes or two helping you too.

Oh, and save the beer for the party AFTER it's all done.:cheers:

good luck

codfish
 
Strange246, this thread brought back some great memories. I was going to just post a link to this (it's kinda long) but unless you're a member of the BarracudaOwnersGroup, it wouldn't show up. Forgive me for the excessive use of space in your thread. Thought ya'll might get a kick outta this.

* * *

November 10, 2005 (a couple months after Hurricane Katrina btw)

The day started off normal enough. Had to cash the Red Cross check (wow, that's a first), hit the hardware store for some valve cover bolts and washers, and get five gallons of gas.

On the way out of the bank the cell phone rings. Of course, it's Billy. "Did ya go to the hardware store yet? No? Well, stop by the house first. I've got a big problem here."

Uh ohhhhh ... He's at home playing with my car. I don't wanna hear about problems. Especially big ones. Finished up getting the radiator, overflow tank and fan shroud in a couple days ago. The new seats and steering wheel were installed as of yesterday afternoon (grrrrrrrr forgot to order a dang horn button), and the Fed Ex guy delivered the Optima battery at 7:35 this morning.

Today's The Day.

The "big problem" was minor, though -- a couple brass plugs for the intake just needed to be added to the hardware store list. What a crisis.

Now armed with my brass plugs, stainless bolts and washers and 93 octane, I got home to find the fan belts were on, the alternator was adjusted and the red-top battery was installed in the box -- and it looks great too. We bolted down the valve covers and put the radiator hoses on, then I poured in Castrol and four quarts of ATF while Billy poured gas in the virgin tank and checked for leaks. Then I filled up the radiator and checked all the fluid levels again. Perfect!

The master cylinder was bled first (only a few drips went where they weren't supposed to), and then three of the lines. Brake fluid all over the ground on the driver's side suggested a problem somewhere [hey Steve can I borrow your kitty litter???]. Some pedal-pumping and investigation revealed the new line-lock fitting wasn't tightening up enough. It was a quick fix with the flaring tool, and the final brake line was bled. A serious push on the pedal will throw ya through the windshield now! Gotta love those Aerospace disc brakes ... mmmm mmmmm.

While I rummaged around what's left of the kitchen and finally found the fire extinguisher, Billy hooked the battery cables up. I grabbed the keys, opened the driver's door, and was somewhat shocked that interior lights came on in the back seat. Wowwww -- I've never seen my car do that before. I had to turn around in the seat and admire them again once I got in.

Is it really happening??? Fourteen and a half years of learning about this thing inside and out, tons of hard work, mistakes, parts collecting, saving up for stuff, waiting, wishing and hoping it would turn out even half as good as it has were now coming to an end.

"Kick it in the nuts babe." I held my breath, put the key in the ignition, and rolled it a quarter turn to the right.


N o t h i n g.

He peeked around the edge of the hood and looked at me expectantly. "Wellllll???" I shook my head. He looked puzzled; then checked the MSD box and fiddled around with the distributor for a minute. "Try it again." I turned the key again. Still no response from the car. I made sure the ignition switch was wired up and anticipated a phone call to Advance Auto Parts ... but he was finding a piece of wire and a long screwdriver. (A faulty ignition switch wasn't going to foil ol' Billy Lee, nooooo way.)

I'm not one bit ashamed to admit that I cried like a friggin baby when the screwdriver touched the lead and that bad *** billeted ***** fired up for the very first time. VahhhhhrrrrrOOOOOMMMMM racketa-racketa-racketa ... 400+ horsepower came to life ... the ground shook under my feet ... the cam action rocked the car back and forth ... 68 pounds of oil pressure?!?! Ohhhhh my goddddddddddd ... SLIMER LIVES!!!!!!

Walked around to the passenger side to see 8 1/2 pounds showing on the fuel pressure gauge, and a big oil slick forming behind the front tire. Shut 'er down!!! It lost almost a quart while figuring out the big oil filter adapter bolt didn't get tightened all the way after the final header adjustment was made in April. Whoops. Glad I bought a whole case of that 20/50.

There were no other leaks, it ran perfectly, and fully petrified the neighbors and small animals. The smells of baking fresh paint and high octane were thick in the air.

Of course, I also had to honor Dana the Trim Master with a quick trip to the back to admire my 1968 tail light lenses glowing red in the now dark garage. Awesome!!!

So aside from a couple of mild chemical sacrifices (watch for me on the EPA's Most Wanted), The Day Slimer Finally Ran was a total and complete success. I would have cracked open my sole BOG beer if I had had the forethought to put it in the fridge ahead of time. I raised my glass of chocolate milk and saluted all of you instead. It was the biggest imaginary group hug ever.

I didn't get to actually drive it anywhere yet though. My drive shaft is an inch too long, I still need a short section of linkage from the console down, there's that ignition switch problem, and I'll need some sort of exhaust system. But hey ... it runs.

To hell with Hurricane Katrina. Life is good again.

Leanna ~ The CudaChick ... who can build something that actually works
1968 Fastback 340
 
Dear oh Dear ????????????BAD *** BILLETED *****??????????????? Is this some new engineering term I should concern myself with, Leanna.:-D:-D
 
Hmmmm I can smell the fumes and feel the rumble,you tell pretty good story there ....we want more!!!!!
 
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