Steel wheel rusted to hub.....

-
Miranthis

Miranthis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2024
Messages
74
Reaction score
60
Location
Shawnee, Kansas
Checked the search for "wheel stuck" and variations on removal and found a lot of stuck brake drum threads but I have a slightly different issue. All 5 lug nuts removed and the steel wheel is rusted to the drum/hub. Been trying "percussive maintenance" along with PB blaster and dropping the car on the wheel with no lug nuts, etc. but will not budge. (Car does not run, so can't use the drive methods to unstick it). This wheel was near a plumbing leak and it was rusted pretty good. I got it free to rotate, but not come off the car. MAP Gas heat maybe? Heat the wheel to hub connection? I will also try some more percussion from the inside and outside and increase the hammer mass....Other ideas?
 
Not the first one with this problem. Prybar between drum or rotor and wheel on the inside. Will come off fairly easily.

Leverage is your friend.
 
Last edited:
Yep, soak with squirrel piss of your choice, then heat & beat. Repeat with bigger hammer if necessary. Helps if you're not worried about saving the wheel.
 
We always used a huge deadblow hammer. Hitting the rim on the lip in the front bottom to give it pivoting release at the top and repeat the opposite. A large air hammer from the rear gives it that jackhammering advantage...After the professor fate thing...SQUIRREL PISS AND HEAT IF NECESSARY. Good luck those can be a *****!
 
Not the safest but I have heard of people leaving the lugs just a little loose and hitting the road at low speed ( or the yard) and sawing the wheel back and forth.
 
With the wheels on the ground and the lug nuts off, you and a friend get on opposite sides of the car and push it vigorously to the left and right. The car's own weight should pop the offending wheel off. Make sure your feet aren't in the way in case the wheel comes completely off. In fact, you might leave the lug nuts on but loosened up a good bit.
 
If you are not wanting g to save the wheels get out the torch and cut it off
 
I had an aluminum one so corroded I drove the lugs back through the spindle and still had to beat the rim off with a hammer. 92 W150 that had sat way too long
 
As stated, soak it well, then get out the BFH and beat it like it owes you money!
 
Screenshot_2018-06-27-15-08-30-1.png
 
Sucess!!:thankyou:.... 36 inch prybar (not made by a division of ACME, or operated by a Coyote...) between the drum and the back of the wheel and a hammer.... still had to really work it and rotate it 1/4 turns prying it.... broke a wheel stud off in the process apparently from the terrible vibration when she finally let go.... now, when I remove the drum is that integral with the wheel bearings, or sandwiched between the wheel and a hub?
 
Well at least you got it off, now you can start the rebuild. LOL
 
Miranthis said:
Sucess!!:thankyou:.... 36 inch prybar (not made by a division of ACME, or operated by a Coyote...) between the drum and the back of the wheel and a hammer.... still had to really work it and rotate it 1/4 turns prying it.... broke a wheel stud off in the process apparently from the terrible vibration when she finally let go.... now, when I remove the drum is that integral with the wheel bearings, or sandwiched between the wheel and a hub?
Click to expand...
The drum is sandwiched and should pull off the axle hub. There may be some retaining clip washers on the lug studs but usually they are long gone after doing brake jobs over the years.

brakes.jpg
 
D/Dart man said:
The drum is sandwiched and should pull off the axle hub. There may be some retaining clip washers on the lug studs but usually they are long gone after doing brake jobs over the years.
Click to expand...
Mine was a front one that was stuck. It looks like the fronts are integral to the hub, unlike the rears..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top