Moparmonster
Well-Known Member
Used to use a grant challenger 13.5" which is great until you quit going to the gym. Challenge your arms
Funny you say that since today is bicep and chest day before I go to work.
Used to use a grant challenger 13.5" which is great until you quit going to the gym. Challenge your arms
did you have to cut down steering shaft and buy there coupler ??On my 66 Barracuda over this past spring I switched out my factory modified ferm feel box for the Borgeson ps Mopar box. Huge difference. Lighter, header clearance galore and best of all it is just like a modern feel car when we drive.
I am using the factory ratio pitman arm.
I possibly will never go back to a factory box again.
Yes. Took out a minimum amount. Lucky for me the body was on the lift. I used a spare k frame and mocked everything up.did you have to cut down steering shaft and buy there coupler ??
On my 66 Barracuda over this past spring I switched out my factory modified ferm feel box for the Borgeson ps Mopar box. Huge difference. Lighter, header clearance galore and best of all it is just like a modern feel car when we drive.
I am using the factory ratio pitman arm.
I possibly will never go back to a factory box again.
best of all it is just like a modern feel car when we drive
Firm feel when they rebuilt my unit was a small sector stage 2. I waited about 6 weeks for the rebuild. I loved it but still felt like an old car driving experience. It also kept getting very hot from the headers and over heating my power steering pump causing me grief.hi @Syleng1 -
Was this from FirmFeel? They seem to stock rebuilt original units such as the "Small Sector Stage 2 (Modern Street)".
Or was this a Borgeson like from Mancini Racing (BRG800126), with a 14:1 ratio?
14:1 sounds tough from other comments here. Was it good for you?
That's what we're looking for!
Thanks!
I'm finishing up my suspension, ending with the steering box, the stock ratio being 24:1. In looking at parts, however, I find that I have a couple of options; 20:1 or 16:1.
Which would be best for a well-handling street driven car?
I already have the Firm Feel fast ratio pitman and idler arms, polygraphite PST rebuild kit, and Addco sway bar.
*1965 Dodge Dart with 1973 front disk brake suspension upgrade*
Okay, apologies for the delay in my reply. I work a lot and don't have a ton of downtime.
I finally spoke to Frank at Firm Feel yesterday and he confirmed everything you said. I was having some doubts but you were correct on every count so thank you for your help.
I know that I can always sell what I can't use so I won't be losing too much of my investment. That all said, I see two choices:
--In order to use the Firm Feel fast ratio pitman and idler arms, I have to use the '73+ style center link, but I'd have to purchase it ($350 plus shipping). If I go that route, the 16:1 steering box ratio is out because the car will be terrible to drive at low speeds.
--The rebuild kit I have is the PST polygraphite kit and if I go with the included pitman and idler arms, I can use the stock '65 V8 centerlink that I already have. If I go this route, I can go with the 16:1 steering ratio.
In either case, though, I'm probably going with the 20:1 steering box ratio just for driveability.
I've already gotten the pitman powder coated so I can't return it.
I honestly don't know the tire size off the top of my head, as they're buried in a corner of the garage. I'll post that when I'm able to get to them again.
the fast ratio pitman arms were designed for cars that were going to be used in specific race series. can't remember which but one presumes it involved going left most of the time.
a sector based steering box is fast in the middle and slower towards the ends of travel. due to the way the pitman arm interacts with the cross link.
the twist of the sector is linear but the movement of the pitman arm stud in the cross link decreases the further away from central it gets (i.e 90*/ perpendicular to the cross link)
this is the opposite of what is built into modern steering which favours slower in the middle, and faster towards each lock. This cuts down no. of turns lock to lock. makes it easy to go straight, harder to veer wildly off course, or roll, if you jerk the wheel...
modern steering is slow in positions that favour going fast, and fast in positions that dictate going slower, like parking
if you extend the pitman arm. you make the system even faster in the middle. something you may not want..
if you never drive straight this is not a problem, its also faster either side of off centre, this is good for circle track racing. i.e the steering is now as fast off centre where you do most circle track driving , as it was in the centre as standard. It is now fast in a position that allows you to traverse a circle or oval race track. and very fast straight on where you spend little or no time when circle track racing.
a steering box that is too fast in the middle makes it much harder to go straight, and adds to a feeling of instability. you can offset this a bit by whacking in loads of positive castor and paying attention to toe in, but that is more expense.
if you have manual steering and you drive it on the street 90%
choose a ratio you want and use standard pitman arm
if power steering you already have 14.5:1 or thereabouts. and you don't feel the weight of it because its power steering...get a smaller steering wheel.
In my view
better to have manual 16:1 and standard pitman
than try to gain the same ratio with 20 or 24:1 and a long pitman arm
there will be cars and people who have balanced ratio and pitman arm length perfectly for what they want to do i'm sure....but for most of us easier to keep it simple
think about it from a leverage point of view
a sack of gravel:- That you can lift with 1 hand close to the body, would be impossible to lift with one hand 2 foot away with your arm out stretched.... leverage too much for you shoulder
longer pitman you make it harder on the steering box internals and easier for the wheels to knock the steering wheel out of your grip
Basically easier to get busted fingers if you hit a hole or curb....
you need your hands to help you get out in a crash...
Dave
the fast ratio pitman arms were designed for cars that were going to be used in specific race series. can't remember which but one presumes it involved going left most of the time.
a sector based steering box is fast in the middle and slower towards the ends of travel. due to the way the pitman arm interacts with the cross link.
the twist of the sector is linear but the movement of the pitman arm stud in the cross link decreases the further away from central it gets (i.e 90*/ perpendicular to the cross link)
this is the opposite of what is built into modern steering which favours slower in the middle, and faster towards each lock. This cuts down no. of turns lock to lock. makes it easy to go straight, harder to veer wildly off course, or roll, if you jerk the wheel...
modern steering is slow in positions that favour going fast, and fast in positions that dictate going slower, like parking
if you extend the pitman arm. you make the system even faster in the middle. something you may not want..
if you never drive straight this is not a problem, its also faster either side of off centre, this is good for circle track racing. i.e the steering is now as fast off centre where you do most circle track driving , as it was in the centre as standard. It is now fast in a position that allows you to traverse a circle or oval race track. and very fast straight on where you spend little or no time when circle track racing.
a steering box that is too fast in the middle makes it much harder to go straight, and adds to a feeling of instability. you can offset this a bit by whacking in loads of positive castor and paying attention to toe in, but that is more expense.
if you have manual steering and you drive it on the street 90%
choose a ratio you want and use standard pitman arm
if power steering you already have 14.5:1 or thereabouts. and you don't feel the weight of it because its power steering...get a smaller steering wheel.
In my view
better to have manual 16:1 and standard pitman
than try to gain the same ratio with 20 or 24:1 and a long pitman arm
there will be cars and people who have balanced ratio and pitman arm length perfectly for what they want to do i'm sure....but for most of us easier to keep it simple
think about it from a leverage point of view
a sack of gravel:- That you can lift with 1 hand close to the body, would be impossible to lift with one hand 2 foot away with your arm out stretched.... leverage too much for you shoulder
longer pitman you make it harder on the steering box internals and easier for the wheels to knock the steering wheel out of your grip
Basically easier to get busted fingers if you hit a hole or curb....
you need your hands to help you get out in a crash...
oh i think you have been a bit harsh and too quick to dismiss
Point 1 OK i said i didn't know, now i do... more corners than your average city street or stretch of freeway though...i'd guess. they were designed for a job in a car prepped for racing.
linear. as in "not varying" nice straight line on a graph not a curve etc
Point 2
I didn't say the cross link movement was linear. the sector turns by the same number of degrees near center, and off center i.e its movement is linear, as in not varying.
The pitman arm is perpendicular to the cross link at the mid point. At this point any movement of the pitman causes maximum movement of the cross link. As the pitman turns away from the center point, less of the movement at the cross link is side to side and more of it is front to back or indeed back to front, of the car, depending on if it is LHD or RHD ( which way pitman arm faces differs between the two). For a distance turned at the steering wheel, you get a smaller distance moved at the cross link the closer to lock you get. The sector turning is linear, the movement of the cross link across the car decreases the further from centre you go. NOT linear. The sector turns around a point, the pitman arm connected to it scribes an arc.
However so do the levers at the ball joints. If they are the same length pivot to pivot as the pitman arm length, there is some compensation for the arc, the pitman follows. how effective that is, is really dependent on if your pitman faces front or back, the length of the track rods, how parallel they are with the cross link and the compromises in the design. But we are talking here about lengthening one (pitman) and not the other (balljoint). The cross link movement is not linear... and i never said it was. i personally don't think i'm as daft as you think i am.. but hey, that can be proved wrong, as i find everyday..
5) by extending the pitman arm, the distance from centre of sector, to centre of pitman arm stud is now longer. so the arc it scribes is longer for the same no. of degrees turned by the sector, and the cross link needs to move fore/aft more as the steering approaches the locks. but no change to the length of the balljoint levers. so i still say faster in the middle and faster off centre than it was with the original. Each degree at the sector now scribes a longer arc at the cross link. like a sector of a bigger circle
3) OK not my best use of terms but "what is built into modern steering" covers my sins.
ratio doesn't change... But variable rate racks exist..... maybe i should have said a combination of modern technology conspires to keep us safe. when talking about modern steering. we don't have that in a 50 year old mopar
The modern set up is designed so that the lock to lock turns are low, and the steering is "less lively" in the middle, and nicely tuned to make driving through winding narrow streets and parking at slow speed easier on the arms, less input for a tighter turn to help close quarters maneuvering . You don't get much of that with a steering box and you will make its " dead" point, in the middle smaller when you extend the pitman arm.
9)you have just put a longer lever on the end of the sector... a longer lever results in a mechanical advantage at the point farthest from the pivot. So feed back from the wheels into the box can apply greater force to the box internals and then from there to the steering wheel. looking at it the other way the forces seen at the sector tooth/ballnut interface will be greater, because from the pivot point at the sector you are now trying to swing a longer pitman arm/lever. the mechanical advantage works against the steering box in this case. The point where you change the direction of the force applied to steer the wheels now see's the end of, and has to try to swing, a longer lever. the steering box is at the "wrong" end of the lever.
The steering box comes off worst. In a system with no steering damper in theory it will wear out faster.
if it takes x ftlb to shove the cross link left 2 inches with a 4 inch pitman arm
it will take 2x ftlb to shove it 2 inches left with an 8 inch pitman. but the distance turned by the sector will be less, half.... its probably 1/2 the degrees.... i'm not gonna work it out, for a made up deliberately simple example, it is less.... and the distance you turn the steering wheel is less.
Work Done, and force are different things. the energy expended by you turning the steering wheel = force x distance
the Work Done at the steering wheel will be the same for both pitman arms.
With the longer one, the steering wheel is harder to turn, but you don't need to turn it as far.
Short one easier to turn, but you turn the wheel much further.
same energy used, but different ratio of "force to turn" and "distance turned" at the steering wheel.
The forces seen in the steering gear will be greater for the long one, covering a smaller rotation of the sector that results in the same 2 inches movement at the cross link.
Doesn't matter how you achieve a ratio, if the ratio stays the same with 2 different configurations the "force" you use to turn the wheel is the same, but the forces across the components of the system between you and the tyres are distributed differently. id rather be a tooth on a sector shaft in a shorter pitman arm equipped box.
granted some of the things i said, or the way i said it, are open to interpretation
but i tried to give a layman's terms explanation to illustrate why i think achieving steering ratio with the steering box is better than with a long pitman arm. the long arm seems like a bit of a "hack" for a specific racing purpose.
I feel in some areas you may have been a bit quick to dismiss as wrong, things that are not actually wrong. Not liking the way i put it, is different from it being wrong.
Dave
Kirby-Bishop made variable ratio steering boxes & racks for Fords & Holden's in Australia and later for Mercedes and a few others aswell.OK variable rate racks and solutions for steering
AutoZine Technical School
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/variable-ratio-steering-systems/
i belive the cars that GM Holden sold in the US under the chevy and pontiac brands, rear wheel drive v8 saloons had this, can't find anything to show that. but the above illustrates some of the history. You can get a modified K frame in Australia to facilitate fitment to a Mopar