Steering Column/Gauge Cluster Help

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Divenut

Divenut

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Hi Folks,

I need to remove my gauge cluster for servicing, i.e. lights not working, need to install speedo cable, general clean-up etc. Got it loose, but the column is in the way. A search here at FABO indicated that the column needs to be "dropped" to allow the cluster to be removed. Never did this before and I am wondering if I can just remove the nuts/fasteners (with the yellow eyelets on them) that seem to secure the column to the dash (pictured below) or if I also need to back out the bolts that secure the bottom of the column to the floor pan. Also, any words of caution or othe rthings to be aware of?

Thanks in advance,
Pat

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Just need to drop it a little. You are correct. Loosen them two bolts and if that is not enough then go for the ones in the firewall.
 
It doesn't take long to pull the flange bolts at the firewall. My 67, in addition to the two nuts, also has a third further down.

Be sure 'n post back when you get the cluster out, there's some things you need to check and do while it's out.
 
x2 but think there are 3 of the nuts and washers one is not in the picture. whats with all the wires all over the place?
 
You should be able to reach everything from under the dash!? At least the Speedo cable and bulb sockets.
 

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Thank you all for the quick replies! You rock :supz:

Burntorange70 said:
Just need to drop it a little. You are correct. Loosen them two bolts and if that is not enough then go for the ones in the firewall.
Click to expand...

Thanks that's what I was hoping to hear.

67Dart273 said:
It doesn't take long to pull the flange bolts at the firewall. My 67, in addition to the two nuts, also has a third further down. Be sure 'n post back when you get the cluster out, there's some things you need to check and do while it's out.
Click to expand...

Rocky_JS said:
x2 but think there are 3 of the nuts and washers one is not in the picture. whats with all the wires all over the place?
Click to expand...

Yep. I saw all three nuts guys. Thanks!

I'll will definitely post back once I get the cluster out 67Dart273. Hope to knock it out tomorrow evening after work.


Rocky - Man, the PO(s) got wires all over the place. bundles hacked, wires spliced, loose ends hanging out. Also must have had a sales on blue wire, cause it is everywhere :banghead: The wiring has been the single biggest challenge for me. Had no headlights, markers, brakes, flashers, hazards etc. etc. when I bought it. Got the exterior lights working and am starting sort out the interior electrical now...then the engine bay wiring (very ugly). My kids are learning the importance of patience when it comes to project cars LOL!

And again, Thanks all,
Pat
 
On some models the 3rd piece of hardware may be a bolt going into a caged nut.
DO NOT cross thread that rascal. Replacing it with a common nut, bolt and washers is a pain in the arse, neck, back, etc..
 
Rocky_JS said:
dive what car are you working on? Is it a rallye dash..
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Hi Rocky - 72 340 Duster. Not sure if it's is a rally dash (I'm a Mopar:newb:) Guessing not, but here's a pic.

IMG_4075.jpg


RedFish said:
On some models the 3rd piece of hardware may be a bolt going into a caged nut.
DO NOT cross thread that rascal. Replacing it with a common nut, bolt and washers is a pain in the arse, neck, back, etc..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Redfish...I've got enough pains in all of the said locations. lol

bcschief said:
Disconnect the battery before doing anything

Brian
Click to expand...

Always do. Thanks for looking out Brian.

Have a good one folks,
Pat
 
Thanks to all of your input, I got the column dropped and gauge cluster out w/o incident.

The bulbs look fine, plugs/connectors seem OK. Other than the turn signals/hazard, none of the other bulbs work. The bulb for the ashtray (I think..it's just hanging down near the ash tray, and aftermarket gauges light up fine. So looks like I got to dig deeper (wiring schematics here I come! [-o<). I did find a crapload of cut wires behind the cluster, but not sure what they are yet....Taking deep, calming breaths to get ready for the upcoming fun. Here's a few pictures that should make most of you feel better about your cars LOL!

Also, does the Speedo cable just slip over that nipple in the first pic?Gonna order a cable but want to make sure I know what to look for.

Thanks again, and I welcome any troubling shooting suggestions.

Will keep you posted,
Pat

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I think I would be shopping for a dash (std non rallye) harness... but if your good at electrical and have a good wiring diagram you can repair all the cut wire runs properly.
 
i was looking through some wire diagrams and think you will have to follow the PCB (printed circuit board) to find which wire is for the dash lights. first after seeing the harness I would check to see if you get power to the PCB. you could energize the pcb in that circuit and ground it and see if it lights. remember the headlight switch and dimmer
 
You have a shop manual? Download one here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

Wiring looks a mess, is that photo of the headlight switch?

Several areas of concern on old Mopars

One is the bulkhead connector,

the headlight wiring

the ignition switch wiring

the ammeter circuit

the cluster

For insight on what happens with the bulkhead connector, read this article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

which came from here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

The simplified diagram down the page, even though referring to pickups also relates to all the older Mopars. Just about ANY of the higher current conductors through the bulkhead can give you trouble, including the ignition run, the headlights, and the battery feed and charging conductors

You can RELIEVE the headlight switch/ and wiring of load problems by installing relays for the headlights

Ditto on the "ignition run" (dark blue), or IGN1 circuit. Some cars have voltage drop through that section of the harness and this causes OVERCHARGING when running, as well as poor spark at certain times. The regulator "thinks" the battery is dead because of drop in that harness, and jacks up the alternator output, thus over voltage/ over charging

The cluster. Several areas of concern

Inspect, clean, repair, replace the connector pins on the PC board

Clean the board around connection points, including mounting screws, lamp sockets, and the nut pads for the gauges.

Inspect the "socket" where the gauge voltage limiter mounts, and if necessary, solder the springy fingers to the PC board.

Loosen/ tighten the nuts on the gauges, and consider replacing the nuts.

Clean the pc pads where the mounting (grounding) screws go. Pick one of the "ground" screws and attach a wire pigtail about a foot or so long, and with a ring terminal on the far end, bolt the other end to the column support behind the cluster.

That connector you pictured is a mess. Any idea why it is all chopped up?
 
Rocky_JS said:
I would check to see if you get power to the PCB. you could energize the pcb in that circuit and ground it and see if it lights. remember the headlight switch and dimmer
Click to expand...

Thanks Rocky. I plan to get my tester out this weekend and see what is/isn't getting power. Luckly I have a fridge (beer) in the garage.


67Dart273 said:
You have a shop manual? ?
Click to expand...

Yep - Downloaded that link shortly after joining FABO. It has proven invaluable in getting stuff firgured out & fixed so far!


67Dart273 said:
Wiring looks a mess, is that photo of the headlight switch? ?
Click to expand...

Yes it is. ](*,) The bundles going to the cluster seem intact where the 3 plugs (lights, pin connector and wipers) go into the cluster. Guessing something upstream may be hacked. The 4th pic is the plug for the light switch. I noticed one terminal by my index finger is empty (can see the blue tape showing through). But I did not find an obvious corresponding wire/terminal end... Not sure if that is by design or not?

67Dart273 said:
Several areas of concern on old Mopars
For insight on what happens with the bulkhead connector, read this article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

which came from here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml ?
Click to expand...

Will be doing some lite reading tonight :happy1:

67Dart273 said:
That connector you pictured is a mess. Any idea why it is all chopped up?
Click to expand...

Nope. Found it just like you see it when I pulled the cluster out. Have no idea what it's for. Amazingly the car starts & runs great despite the hack job. But being as anal/paranoid as I am, leaving it as is isn't an option. Just my luck one of the many "hanging" and wires will short out, and/or catch fire. But, such is the life of a gearhead and his project.

And another Big Thanks to all that have piped in with the great info/suggestions etc.

Pat
 
I cannot tell from your photo, but here's one possibility

The newer cars don't have the park lights on the old park circuit, because (on my 67) the park lights are NOT on with headlights. All Ma did on the newer cars to hold the park lights on with headlights was to MOVE the park supply wire over to the tail light terminal.

So this will leave on unused terminal on the switch.
 
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