Steering column install...

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nodemon

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Ok, I'm trying to finish installing the under dash steering bracket.. Something is off, at least I think it is.. The plastic "bushings" or clips are out of align with the bracket when lined up with the studs.. What am I missing..?

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Mine was like that. The expanded metal portion of the column gets smashed pretty easily and throws it out of alignment. I cut the expanded metal out and replaced with some exhaust tubing of the same size.
 
Mine was like that. The expanded metal portion of the column gets smashed pretty easily and throws it out of alignment. I cut the expanded metal out and replaced with some exhaust tubing of the same size.
When you say "expanded metal" are you referring to the mesh part?
 
Mine was like that. The expanded metal portion of the column gets smashed pretty easily and throws it out of alignment. I cut the expanded metal out and replaced with some exhaust tubing of the same size.
Hmmm.. It was good when I removed it.. no smashing while restoring it...makes sense though.
 
That's how I'm taking it...I hope not... I just got all this back together..
Be careful with that. That is a crush zone that collapses in the event of a front end collision. Replace that with a solid section and no telling what would happen in a collision.
 
Safety feature. stretch it back to spec
 
Maybe install the firewall plate after you have the column bracket where you want it. I can't remember if there are slots in that lower bracket where it bolts to the column to but if there is, leave those bolts slightly loose until you have it all positioned. There should be a small amount of fore and aft adjustment.

The breakaway biscuits, plastic shear pins in the steering shaft and the mesh section were all designed to allow the column to collapse on itself in case of a front end impact. Leave that stuff alone. Replacing the mesh section with a solid piece is not a good idea. By doing that you're effectively turning the column into a spear.
 
Column has a little adjustability doesn't it?
Seems like I ran into this with one of my cars, push the column down?
 

Safety feature. stretch it back to spec
How would one stretch it back..? Would that mesh area being "collapsed" also mean the shaft is ruined..? Isn't there a safety issue if the shaft is collapsed..?
 
Maybe install the firewall plate after you have the column bracket where you want it. I can't remember if there are slots in that lower bracket where it bolts to the column to but if there is, leave those bolts slightly loose until you have it all positioned. There should be a small amount of fore and aft adjustment.

The breakaway biscuits, plastic shear pins in the steering shaft and the mesh section were all designed to allow the column to collapse on itself in case of a front end impact. Leave that stuff alone. Replacing the mesh section with a solid piece is not a good idea. By doing that you're effectively turning the column into a spear.
I'll give that a try.. Can you see or tell if that mesh has collapsed some..? It's kind of "wavy" to begin with, right..?
 
So I assume that you know not to bottom the shaft in the coupler. There is a measurement for proper depth (see pic at gauge hole). The two bolt flange at the firewall is left loose and the column is slid back or forward to get the proper depth engagement at the coupler. Once it is set, the flange bolts get tightened squeezing the rubber O ring as do the support bracket nuts.

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So I assume that you know not to bottom the shaft in the coupler. There is a measurement for proper depth (see pic at gauge hole). The two bolt flange at the firewall is left loose and the column is slid back or forward to get the proper depth engagement at the coupler. Once it is set, the flange bolts get tightened squeezing the rubber O ring as do the support bracket nuts.

View attachment 1716203381
I did not know that there was a measurement..I will check what mine is.. Thanks for that info..! Hope it's that simple.
 
So I assume that you know not to bottom the shaft in the coupler. There is a measurement for proper depth (see pic at gauge hole). The two bolt flange at the firewall is left loose and the column is slid back or forward to get the proper depth engagement at the coupler. Once it is set, the flange bolts get tightened squeezing the rubber O ring as do the support bracket nuts.

View attachment 1716203381
I think you nailed it..! I'm way too deep..(that's what she said)...lol As long as my conversion is right.

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How would one stretch it back..? Would that mesh area being "collapsed
Do as someone said.

Get everything bolted up THEN tighten things.

It is really hard to collapse the outer housing tube It is not collapsed.
 
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Because you successfully bent over the tabs (red) you do not need the clip ( green)

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