Stop in for a cup of coffee

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toolmanmike said:
You said "has to be kept wet" LOL I should try it. I have gotten lazy since I retired, A lot of brewing and FABO.
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Think of it as a way to expand your marketing...

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Good Evening All! I'm meeting with our builder on the 22nd for shop design. I was hoping to have more of what I want figured out by now but have been busy settling in on the property. I know it's going to be 30x40x12 stick built. I want two doors, wider than normal and one taller for my lifted Suburban or possibly tractor which I hope to buy in the future. I want to put a 4 post lift in it so I know it should have thick concrete but my builder is saying it could be better to wait and cut out the area later, then pour in the 6 inch layer. There won't be any plumbing, or loft. I want to have it "finished" with sheet rock and insulation, also want hardi plank siding. Also want a couple of windows and a man door. There is already a 200 amp panel existing for it on my H frame. That's what I have figured out, am hoping to get recommendations/comments on what I have and any ideas for little add ins that may be best done at the time of original build. Sorry for the long post, any input would be appreciated.
 
I have a backyard buddy free standing four post hoist. I never thickened the concrete,and yes,the floor cracked. In the first month. No change since. 5”thick maybe.
But cracks extend out from the corners of the floor drain,should have thickened it to bottom of drain.

So if floor is cut,and dug out deeper,what is used for cement?
Is extra steel added?

I should have added a couple 2x2” reciever tubes for tools.
Toolpost sockets are handy.
 
71340Duster said:
Good Evening All! I'm meeting with our builder on the 22nd for shop design. I was hoping to have more of what I want figured out by now but have been busy settling in on the property. I know it's going to be 30x40x12 stick built. I want two doors, wider than normal and one taller for my lifted Suburban or possibly tractor which I hope to buy in the future. I want to put a 4 post lift in it so I know it should have thick concrete but my builder is saying it could be better to wait and cut out the area later, then pour in the 6 inch layer. There won't be any plumbing, or loft. I want to have it "finished" with sheet rock and insulation, also want hardi plank siding. Also want a couple of windows and a man door. There is already a 200 amp panel existing for it on my H frame. That's what I have figured out, am hoping to get recommendations/comments on what I have and any ideas for little add ins that may be best done at the time of original build. Sorry for the long post, any input would be appreciated.
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If you know for sure where you want the lift to be, then they can dig deeper pockets in just those spots when they lay the floor. Then you won’t need to cut and repour later. Sometime concrete floor guys think too linearly and it’s all to be poured at the same depth...but there is nothing that requires concrete to be the same thickness everywhere. Hell, they can even pour deeper blocks in those spots and lay the rest of the floor afterward.
 
Ddaddy said:
If you know for sure where you want the lift to be, then they can dig deeper pockets in just those spots when they lay the floor. Then you won’t need to cut and repour later. Sometime concrete floor guys think too linearly and it’s all to be poured at the same depth...but there is nothing that requires concrete to be the same thickness everywhere. Hell, they can even pour deeper blocks in those spots and lay the rest of the floor afterward.
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I have seen that done. Big blocks poured and cured. Then floor poured over the blocks.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I have a backyard buddy free standing four post hoist. I never thickened the concrete,and yes,the floor cracked. In the first month. No change since. 5”thick maybe.
But cracks extend out from the corners of the floor drain,should have thickened it to bottom of drain.

So if floor is cut,and dug out deeper,what is used for cement?
Is extra steel added?

I should have added a couple 2x2” reciever tubes for tools.
Toolpost sockets are handy.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I like the idea of a moveable lift as they do take up a lot of room. I'm not sure what will need to happen to beef up the lift area. What I'm wondering about is a sanity check on the builders advice of adding it later. I do want to save money, so can't see pouring the whole foundation with extra thick concrete. I'm wondering what concrete/construction to ask for during the initial build. Would rebar be used and will that make adding the lift a pita in the future? So much I don't know...
 
Ddaddy said:
If you know for sure where you want the lift to be, then they can dig deeper pockets in just those spots when they lay the floor. Then you won’t need to cut and repour later. Sometime concrete floor guys think too linearly and it’s all to be poured at the same depth...but there is nothing that requires concrete to be the same thickness everywhere. Hell, they can even pour deeper blocks in those spots and lay the rest of the floor afterward.
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I like this, it makes sense to figure out where it will be and then ask for the blocks in those locations. It seems like I would have to have the lift installation instructions to make sure it meets the strength and dimension requirements. I haven't nailed down the lift since it's down the line, I may need to get that figured out now.
 
71340Duster said:
Thanks for the feedback. I like the idea of a moveable lift as they do take up a lot of room. I'm not sure what will need to happen to beef up the lift area. What I'm wondering about is a sanity check on the builders advice of adding it later. I do want to save money, so can't see pouring the whole foundation with extra thick concrete. I'm wondering what concrete/construction to ask for during the initial build. Would rebar be used and will that make adding the lift a pita in the future? So much I don't know...
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You need 6” of concrete under the lift mounting points. You can pour bars that extend across the shop to this depth and do the rest in 4”. If you place the bars across each bay at the appropriate spacing, then the lift can be moved to one side or the other as long as you know where the 6” thick pours are.
 
Ddaddy said:
You need 6” of concrete under the lift mounting points. You can pour bars that extend across the shop to this depth and do the rest in 4”. If you place the bars across each bay at the appropriate spacing, then the lift can be moved to one side or the other as long as you know where the 6” thick pours are.
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This sounds like a good idea, I need to get dimensions for the Atlas or whichever lift I go with. I'll bet they can mark this out somehow.
 
Moving the lift just for storage sake wouldn't be a big deal. Changing location for use could bring about issues. 6 sack mix would be my preference, 5 sack is what gets put down in most GP areas. 5 sack is 2000 psi compressive strength, 6 sack is normally 3000 psi. Just putting foundations under the corner posts is a fine idea, just make them large enough so you have room to miss them by a few inches.
 
I put in a lot of rebar, drilled and pinned to footing. There is fiber they add to the concrete Now in place of rebar.i should have asked to have it added. Should have gone 6” or better. We get a lot of frost, and the “clay” is more like silt. It had a good gravel base too.
My foot plates on hoist are 12” square,they do spread the load pretty well. I dont think the hoist caused the cracks.concrete was in trucks 45 minutes,from what i understand thats a little too long for the mix they supplied.
 
Does anyone have input on garage door width? I'm not even sure what is "standard" but maybe that's 9 feet, I'm wondering if 10 feet would be good. I'm hoping to have the two garage doors plus the man door on the 40 foot wide dimension.
 
Unconventional said:
Moving the lift just for storage sake wouldn't be a big deal. Changing location for use could bring about issues. 6 sack mix would be my preference, 5 sack is what gets put down in most GP areas. 5 sack is 2000 psi compressive strength, 6 sack is normally 3000 psi. Just putting foundations under the corner posts is a fine idea, just make them large enough so you have room to miss them by a few inches.
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Do you know how much more $$$ a 6 sack mix is over a 5 sack for 1200 sq. ft.?
 
71340Duster said:
Does anyone have input on garage door width? I'm not even sure what is "standard" but maybe that's 9 feet, I'm wondering if 10 feet would be good. I'm hoping to have the two garage doors plus the man door on the 40 foot wide dimension.
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A standard single door is 8’ wide. A double is 16’ wide. If you have 40’ to work with, then I recommend two doubles.
 
Ddaddy said:
A standard single door is 8’ wide. A double is 16’ wide. If you have 40’ to work with, then I recommend two doubles.
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I want a 34 or 36 inch man door, with two doors totaling 32 feet in width, I'm wondering if the spacing from the side walls and in between would work? I guess there's no rule on how close to the side wall of the shop the door is, I think I need to go to "garage builder.com" or something and take a look. I like the idea of "standard" though, it accomplishes what I want in the end for less money.
 
7 high 9 wide is a typical garage door. 10 wide is a common shop door and 12 wide is a comnercial building door.
Mine is 10,wish some days it was 12 wide.
 
Tooljunkie said:
7 high 9 wide is a typical garage door. 10 wide is a common shop door and 12 wide is a comnercial building door.
Mine is 10,wish some days it was 12 wide.
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Can you tell me what kind of situations happen that make a 10 foot not as good as a 12?
 
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