Stop in for a cup of coffee

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anyone notice anything odd here?
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Me too. I see that Edelbrock doesn't recommend hooking it up to the ballast. If it takes 5 amps and never shuts off the ballast only has so much current to operate or if it needs more, the circuit is overloaded. No need to strain our already weak electrical system. A 10 amp delay relay that could be controlled by the ballast wire would be good as long as it shuts off power to the choke in 10 min. or so.

If you shut off power to the choke, will it stay open???
 
If you shut off power to the choke, will it stay open???
That I don't know. I would have to try it. I would imagine the engine heat would do the trick. Holley has a ground side temp control that should cut the current back to almost nothing when the engine is warm. Too bad it's $40. But if it works! Holley 45-267 Choke Delay Kit
 
So how do we get "in" on the $ end of that lawsuit the NO fans are filing against the NFL over that muffed call? :lol:

They have the technology to look at an instant replay...

Why can't they review the play and make the proper call???? :wtf:
 
most electric chokes have a thermostat. On when warm, to pull off faster on warm days. Never looked at the eddy one, likely wont have.
 
That I don't know. I would have to try it. I would imagine the engine heat would do the trick. Holley has a ground side temp control that should cut the current back to almost nothing when the engine is warm. Too bad it's $40. But if it works! Holley 45-267 Choke Delay Kit

I've never had any trouble running the Holleys with an electric choke hooked up to a constant 12 volt source... Just plug and play...

Are we overthinking this and making it more difficult than it really needs to be???
 
I've never had any trouble running the Holleys with an electric choke hooked up to a constant 12 volt source... Just plug and play...

Are we overthinking this and making it more difficult than it really needs to be???
Yes on both counts. LOL
 
Guess i. Going to venture out and see if the ram will start. If it does, pull it in shop and test block heater. Lube up the 4wd shifter as it was sticky.
 
Ok, I need to catch a nap before work...

12 hour shifts only give 4 hours for me if I get 8 hours sleep...

I don't need my cold to kick back in... I almost have it licked, I don't want it to get worse again...
 
I've never had any trouble running the Holleys with an electric choke hooked up to a constant 12 volt source... Just plug and play...

Are we overthinking this and making it more difficult than it really needs to be???

Yes on both counts. LOL


We're pulling a Chris.... :BangHead: :poke:
 
On my 1402 it stays open when it heats up but the engine compartment is always hot also. Headers wraped and a 440 in there creates a crapload of heat.
 
If you shut off power to the choke, will it stay open???
The ones I've seen are all electric assist. The bimetal does most of the work, so no.

most electric chokes have a thermostat. On when warm, to pull off faster on warm days. Never looked at the eddy one, likely wont have.
I think the factory ones are generally better thought out then the aftermarket. I'd like to think its simple to have the connection open when the bimetal uncoils enough. I've been meaning for some time to see if that's how the autolite/motorcraft choke assist works. One safety AMC incorporated was having the assist power run through a oil pressure switch. No oil pressure - no electric.

I've never had any trouble running the Holleys with an electric choke hooked up to a constant 12 volt source... Just plug and play...

Are we overthinking this and making it more difficult than it really needs to be???
See Tim's and Hoppy's post and Mike's first post. I think not.
Me too. I see that Edelbrock doesn't recommend hooking it up to the ballast. If it takes 5 amps and never shuts off the ballast only has so much current to operate or if it needs more, the circuit is overloaded. No need to strain our already weak electrical system. A 10 amp delay relay that could be controlled by the ballast wire would be good as long as it shuts off power to the choke in 10 min. or so.
On a lot of our cars the ignition wire to the ballast is also carrying the field current. It's only 14 or 16 gage and the double crimp at the terminal needs to be in good condition. That's the one I've had problems with on my Barracuda.

I like the all mechanical choke the factory used until emmissions got stricter.
 
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In the hops drier I used some thermal switches to shuy off the heater on it and turn it back on when the temp dropped. They would work great and are cheap.

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I added one of them to my wood stove to automatically turn the fan on and off. Used to run all night after the fire went out. Now it turns on when stove is up to temp and off as it cools.

NO EYE PROTECTION!! :eek:
For Ben if he gets in too close and catches one of them bouncers? :lol:

Good Morning
 
Actually its a sucky morning. Kinda like my whole last week. But I try to be positive... Well I am positive it sucks!:mob:

:soapbox:So, the insurance company is trying to steal my car. They are now saying because the bank is on title, I get no opportunity for me to buy back as salvage. I refused to give them any numbers to process the payoff till I get some answers. I have not even agreed to their payoff value if it does go that way. Not sure there is any way out of that. Bank says manager needs to deal with title and loan and he is not in today. So that is on hold.
Even if I do get it back as salvage. I found out it must be completely repaired, inspected, and title done to put it back on the road. Would be some time into warmer weather till I would get any welding and paint complete. Then have to go through process with inspection and state to put on road. I was told by people that have done it that can be 1 to 3 MONTHS. Can't just put doors on and drive it -as I would If they would cut me a check for repairs. They don't even discuss that. Its like listening to a recording. Every sentence ends with "It's totaled" :mad:
 
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