Stop in for a cup of coffee

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MomsDuster said:
Got the Duster up and running this week. Took to work yesterday without any issues. Seems to be running well. :thumbsup:
Think I’ll try and put some miles on her today. Gotta use up the fuel so I can drop the tank to replace filler neck seal.
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That's good... :thumbsup:

Take it out and enjoy it a little... :steering:
 
Need to find someone with experience doing alignments on these old cars. Last shop charged me $160 and it go’s straight, but it looks cambered like a ricer! Not rediculus but still noticeable to me. Suppose it could be the little runners up front exaggerating the look. Still would like it checked by someone with experience.
 
MomsDuster said:
Need to find someone with experience doing alignments on these old cars. Last shop charged me $160 and it go’s straight, but it looks cambered like a ricer! Not rediculus but still noticeable to me. Suppose it could be the little runners up front exaggerating the look. Still would like it checked by someone with experience.
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We are lucky here in town There's K&S Wheel Alignment. Chuck, the owner, align's the Indy cars and they get all the classic and street rod cars for miles around. They don't use alignment specs out of a book. They just know what works.
 
lol
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All nos distrib parts!
 
krazykuda said:
Let's say it's a sub standard insurance company... They only pay $28 per hour for labor when standard rate is $52...

My brother is an insurance adjuster also... He's been helping me find the parts in the same color so we can save money not having to have the repair panels painted since they do not pay much for labor... This way we can get the car finished within the budget that they are giving me...

But we can buy an aftermarket fender and paint if for what I can buy one out of a salvage yard... Since now the ones are either in Urbana ( 1 1/2 hours away) or Ohio (about 4 hours away)....
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Looks like State Farm used $52 on their estimate. But, payout was based mostly on comparable car sale values. So, have they said for sure they will pay for repairs? Is it worth enough that they won't total it? Could you get a fender shipped cheaper than driving to Ohio? What car is this again?
 
MomsDuster said:
Need to find someone with experience doing alignments on these old cars. Last shop charged me $160 and it go’s straight, but it looks cambered like a ricer! Not rediculus but still noticeable to me. Suppose it could be the little runners up front exaggerating the look. Still would like it checked by someone with experience.
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I need to do a driveway toe alignment on the Neon. I didn't really look where it was before I did the tie rod. Tried to get it back in same dimension, but the old sleave type end broke off and I couldn't count threads. Think the new one is a little diff length anyway. Pretty sure it should have a slight toe in and it looks out to me. Heard a little squeal around corner last night.
 
zkx14 said:
I need to do a driveway toe alignment on the Neon. I didn't really look where it was before I did the tie rod. Tried to get it back in same dimension, but the old sleave type end broke off and I couldn't count threads. Think the new one is a little diff length anyway. Pretty sure it should have a slight toe in and it looks out to me. Heard a little squeal around corner last night.
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Yep get it close and take it in for a alignment. I agree that the replacement parts aren't exactly the same as the originals. A few extra threads can make a difference.
 
zkx14 said:
I need to do a driveway toe alignment on the Neon. I didn't really look where it was before I did the tie rod. Tried to get it back in same dimension, but the old sleave type end broke off and I couldn't count threads. Think the new one is a little diff length anyway. Pretty sure it should have a slight toe in and it looks out to me. Heard a little squeal around corner last night.
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I also need to figure out how they do the other adjustments. I plan to change the control arms soon. I didn't look too close, but did not see any other adjustable parts. ???
 
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toolmanmike said:
Yep get it close and take it in for a alignment. I agree that the replacement parts aren't exactly the same as the originals. A few extra threads can make a difference.
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Might be a bit till I get the rest of it done. Just won't do any highway miles till then.
 
zkx14 said:
I als need to figure out how they do the other adjustments. I plan to change the control arms soon. I didn't look too close, but did not see any other adjustable parts. ???
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Upper control arms and tie rods are it. Strut bar is pretty much what it is.
 
halifaxhops said:
Upper control arms and tie rods are it. Strut bar is pretty much what it is.
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After market plates available? Stock class guys were cheating using 'collision repair' plates that let them get alignments bette for autocrossing than stock allowed. (Rules have been rewritten to address that) Point is, there's probably something out there if needed. Maybe used for road racing when there was a Neon spec class.
 
zkx14 said:
I need to do a driveway toe alignment on the Neon. I didn't really look where it was before I did the tie rod. Tried to get it back in same dimension, but the old sleave type end broke off and I couldn't count threads. Think the new one is a little diff length anyway. Pretty sure it should have a slight toe in and it looks out to me. Heard a little squeal around corner last night.
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Think that squeal might have been that little girl that got hit and run in York!
 
MomsDuster said:
Need to find someone with experience doing alignments on these old cars. Last shop charged me $160 and it go’s straight, but it looks cambered like a ricer! Not rediculus but still noticeable to me. Suppose it could be the little runners up front exaggerating the look. Still would like it checked by someone with experience.
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When the wheels are pointing straight ahead, there should be just a little negative camber if you're using radial tires. When the front wheels are turned, the outside wheel should pick up a little more negative camber. That's a part of the design. Also when the outside compresses, the caster should cause it to pick up even more negative camber.
 
All of this insurance talk and what to I find in my e-mail? The Honda and Nissan are full coverage, Ram and Duster are liability. Gotta love having a 20yr old son on the policy. Well that and it’s Ca.

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