Stop in for a cup of coffee

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toolmanmike said:
As long as the pads rub the rotor where they are supposed to you're good! :lol:
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I've got to put a new rotor on that side. Well maybe I don't have to, but its got .022" runout and is supposed to be .005" There's not enough meat left in it to cut .012" so its new rotor time. Figure if I don't I'm just going ot waste the pads and do the caliper no good either. I'll change both sides and keep the better one as a spare/backup.

Really like the initial bite and modulation from these Bendix Metlok pads.
 
toolmanmike said:
I had a couple different regulators on my Swinger and regardless of brand, they all overcharged in the 15v. range. My buddy Joe got a hold of a few Mopar regulators and I put one on. 14.3-14.6. Standard and Echlin were both bad.
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That's interesting. Not in a good way either. LOL
Book says 15 V is in the acceptable range at 50* F, but I would have thought the electronic regulators weren't temperature dependent. Maybe I'm wrong though. I think when I was looking at a later book with the squarebacks in them the regulation specs were about the same.
 
Good morning. Still waiting for those 15' breakers, nothing yet. Be a good day for to take the motorcicle out for a run. I must have errands to run. Maybe get that BBQ in that I planned yesterday, 30mph winds kinda take the fun out of BBQing, hard to keep the hot links from blowing off the grill :rolleyes:. Tuesday-Thursday, more crappy weather. I be darned if those guys in Bakersfield didn't manage to get the racing done despite the rain. I bet the track was badfast :steering: .
 
@halifaxhops you got any points Ballast resistors or are they the same as the electronic ones? I think mines bad in the polara, she won’t start again, no spark
 
One side in. Would have been a lot quicker, but doing a little clean up while I am there. Frame was covered in gunk. Not sure why, but the s
pindle knuckles on this thing​
are all heavily rusted
yet the underside of the actual body is damn near rust free. I have a set from the yard for the back I plan to replace including really clean back plates. I did a little de-rusting on this one and shot it with Rust Reformer. Maybe if/when I need to do struts or bearings I will change these. Should go look at same car I got back ones from....​

1FA75F2D-D4EA-4B6A-8154-0F89C46DEC9A.jpeg
 
Holy crap

out of commission, cant drive my dart anymore

That is scary, the thought of going fast on a front end that is far from meeting the standard.

If I can rebuild a front end then anyone can, I am the last person on the planet who should be able to do anything like that.

I rebuilt a few, usually on cars I converted to disk brakes. You don't usually find used disk brake parts that don't need a rebuild
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
Holy crap

out of commission, cant drive my dart anymore

That is scary, the thought of going fast on a front end that is far from meeting the standard.

If I can rebuild a front end then anyone can, I am the last person on the planet who should be able to do anything like that.
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Perhaps, but it's one of those 'ya don't know what ya don't know' A lot of people won't jump into something without at least thinking they know every detail. Usually that's when you have the biggest problem. I did the entire front suspension on the Duster without KNOWING what I was doing (OK, I did the entire everything on the Duster without knowing...lol) Short of having a mentor standing by your side people need to get the FSM. It's in there. Study it. Start the job till you get stumped then come back and study some more. If ya still don't understand it - FABO rocks!
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
Holy crap

out of commission, cant drive my dart anymore

That is scary, the thought of going fast on a front end that is far from meeting the standard.

If I can rebuild a front end then anyone can, I am the last person on the planet who should be able to do anything like that.

I rebuilt a few, usually on cars I converted to disk brakes. You don't usually find used disk brake parts that don't need a rebuild
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There is really only one hard part to me... the lower control arm rebuilding. Rest is easy
 
Just got back from a nice long “yee-haw” run in the SRT. I needed to go run it for a while to charge up the battery and scrub the rust off the rotors. It’s been over a 2 months since I last drove it because of all the crappy weather. She’s still a beast!
 
dukeboy_318 said:
There is really only one hard part to me... the lower control arm rebuilding. Rest is easy
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If a local was in the same boat i wouldnt hesitate to help.
Let him do the work and jump in when it gets difficult.
 
So. Patching floor.it’s going well.
F’n welder....
Wire feed drive wheel is out of alignment. Loosen retaining nut,slid drive wheel outwards 1/4” and it seems to work near perfect. I still think its a pos...
 
Just about done with my control arms. Taking a few minutes break. Just need to put the stabilizer link in an torque everything on the passenger side. The knuckle is not near as rusty on that side. I suspect that was all changed out with yard parts at some point as I know that corner took a hit.
 
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