Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Bills65Dart said:
I took a hunting class this summer, and some days ago I got a letter from NRA if I was interested in becoming a member. My wife asked, are you going to sign up for this ? I answered, I don't know, if I do, we can not go to San Francisco, because then I can get arrested. So, there you go.

Bill
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I lived just south of there in Sunnyvale for three years. Strange place. You have no idea how many times I got spit at and yelled at wearing my uniform getting lunch. I really hate that area. And it got worse since I left. Tell you the truth SF is ok but I would not go out of my way to go there personally.
 
360DartGT66 said:
So this kinda weird guy over here has a set of Indy 440-C heads with matching ported intake. He bought the car with the engine in it and the seller said it was freshly rebuilt.

On the dyno it turns out one of the heads is cracked and repaired between the middle cylinders. Looks like a good repair (to me) but the head is still leaking (coolant, I assume) and the guy said oil pressure was off.

Now he’s got a set of Promaxx heads and another very hot intake and wants me to make an offer on the heads and intake.

I know the intake is for RB but it should work with an adapter on a B block, right?

The guy has no clue about camshafts and seems like the “buy” guy as opposed to “wrench”.

Let’s assume the following circumstances:
- I know a guy who has offered to weld a different cracked cylinder head before.
- I get to show this head to him for assessment before finalizing the deal.
- I can get the head welded for a good prize, 1-$200.

What would you guys offer?

Indy intake + cast iron heads, one cracked. What’s it worth?
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to me, a cracked head is worth nothing but as a paperweight. I've paid to have heads repaired before and it never lasts.
 
Good head can be worth a lot! Especially twins.
Intake depends I would not go with a adapter, just two more place for vacuum leaks.
 
360DartGT66 said:
So what is the good head and intake worth? And remember, valves and springs are not cheap for a Indy head.
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intake, may 150-200. I wouldn't buy just one head, especially knowing its counter part is cracked. While there could be a million reasons for the cracking, must of them come from severe overheating. which means the likelihood of the current "good" head may have some cracking too
 
plus, no go putting an RB intake on an adapter. You'd be in it for more money than its worth. Anders, that just sound like a bad deal all around. Walk away would be my advice.
 
Let's back up the bus here a little. I missed the post where you mentioned what you were building and how you want to use it.
 
360DartGT66 said:
So what is the good head and intake worth? And remember, valves and springs are not cheap for a Indy head.
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But then you have to find another Indy head and who sells a single?? Then your buying another pair.
I guess if you wanted Indy heads to say you had them that's your call.
To me I probably couldn't hear or tell if you were running them or a regular stock head. JMO.
 
Find a pair of 904 port then and then valve job and mill the surface to straighten them out. After you have them checked for cracks.
 
halifaxhops said:
Find a pair of 904 port then and then valve job and mill the surface to straighten them out. After you have them checked for cracks.
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904s, i don't think I've seen 904s. Hmm. I've got a set of real nice 906s I bought off of Tim.
 
toolmanmike said:
Let's back up the bus here a little. I missed the post where you mentioned what you were building and how you want to use it.
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Sorry.

I’m building a 400 stroker to 454” for my ‘66 :D

400 block bored to 4.36”, Ford 460 pistons +030, 440 crank and 383 rods.

Ray found me a solid flat tappet cam in Tulsa.
 
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halifaxhops said:
Find a pair of 904 port then and then valve job and mill the surface to straighten them out. After you have them checked for cracks.
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I have a pair of 452:s in the basement, fluxed, cleaned and ready to get new guides, valve job and porting. I've been offered to buy them for $350 but after I put the machine work into them, they're another $6-700.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Sorry.

I’m building a 400 stroker to 454” for my ‘66 :D

400 block bored to 4.36”, Ford 460 pistons +030, 440 crank and 383 rods.

Ray found me a solid flat tappet cam in Tulsa.
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So you have a B block and need a B block intake.
 
they are out there,just have to look bet you can find a good used one for under 150.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Sorry.

I’m building a 400 stroker to 454” for my ‘66 :D

400 block bored to 4.36”, Ford 460 pistons +030, 440 crank and 383 rods.

Ray found me a solid flat tappet cam in Tulsa.
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Apparently on a pretty strict budget? Out of the box heads should be disassembled and checked. FYI. I would check any head just to be safe.
 
360DartGT66 said:
I have a pair of 452:s in the basement, fluxed, cleaned and ready to get new guides, valve job and porting. I've been offered to buy them for $350 but after I put the machine work into them, they're another $6-700.
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just me, but why not
By the time you get a 906 or a 452 set of iron heads ready to make 500 horsepower, with a mild cam (or a radical cam for that matter), you could have bought set of better aluminum heads. Well, unless you own a head porting shop.
 
Mopar Tim said:
just me, but why not
By the time you get a 906 or a 452 set of iron heads ready to make 500 horsepower, with a mild cam (or a radical cam for that matter), you could have bought set of better aluminum heads. Well, unless you own a head porting shop.
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Exactly, A friend bought a nicely ported pair of 906's from a guy that wanted more. They were all set up and ready to roll. He had them checked and bolted them to his fairly mild 440 and made 490+ horse and 500 ft/lb. (with a CH4B Edelbrock dual plane)
 
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