Stop in for a cup of coffee

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dukeboy_318 said:
Is that the dizzy guy that basically tried to undercut you
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No that idiot self destructed I believe. Never screwed me for money, just knowledge which thanks to him wont share any more. Did have one guy that sent him a dizzy looking for a part that I have many of for him to finish his build Of course would not sell it explained why. Pretty funny told him to tell him High. Yeah have to love pee-poles.
 
71340Duster said:
I'm hoping for neither problem, already had a mechanical yesterday building my lift...but at least I caught it. I had both locks engaged, it went together that way, found out you have to push on the safety lock lever to "clear" the ladder while letting the primary only engage. I have 1 cable partially routed, still need to add dual sheeve and terminate on block, then the other 3 cables, power unit mount, hyd and air lines etc.

View attachment 1715476181
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Looks great is that shimmed? Or is the whole floor at that slope?
 
halifaxhops said:
Looks great is that shimmed? Or is the whole floor at that slope?
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I looked thru my installation manual on my Atlas, it says 1-3 degrees is the acceptable range without shimming. However, it recommends shimming to get as close to 0 as possible.

that’s an atlas two post
 
halifaxhops said:
Looks great is that shimmed? Or is the whole floor at that slope?
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It is not shimmed yet, weird thing is I put a degree indicator on it and is shows damn near zero. I think I'll use a long level to verify that. I can see by looking at the foundation where the slab meets the top of the concrete then drops down about 1-2 inches 30 feet away. Bendpak sells plates, may go that way but probably get from local steel yard, what do you think?
 
I would drop a marble on the ramp part and if rolls fast shim it otherwise I would bolt it down and leave it alone?
 
I didn't plan on bolting it down, bought the caster kit so I could move it if I needed to (so far I haven't imagined why I would but who knows, stuff happens). If I put plates under it, say 1/4 or 1/8 inch thick I could still use the casters. I appreciate everybody's comments regarding this.
 
Would be nice to have wheels. Having the cuda hostage on mine hurts for sure taking up space. I am lost on the slope thing is the whole floor sloped or just by the entrance like mine?
 
Morning guys. Just my take, shim it to the floor and forget the wheel kit. I doubt that you will ever need to move it. (or should move it) If you shim it for the present location it will be off level where ever you move it.
 
71340Duster said:
I didn't plan on bolting it down, bought the caster kit so I could move it if I needed to (so far I haven't imagined why I would but who knows, stuff happens). If I put plates under it, say 1/4 or 1/8 inch thick I could still use the casters. I appreciate everybody's comments regarding this.
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This is my thoughts, while you could probably get plates steel anywhere, unless you know the exact tensile strength needed, is just get them thru bendpak. That way should something fail, they can’t come back and say you didn’t have their stuff installed right and your warranty void. Don’t skimp around when it comes to something that may kill you if it fails while you’re under it or destroy your car
 
toolmanmike said:
Morning guys. Just my take, shim it to the floor and forget the wheel kit. I doubt that you will ever need to move it. (or should move it) If you shim it for the present location it will be off level where ever you move it.
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I agree. Bolt the sucker down, shim it right of course
 
halifaxhops said:
Would be nice to have wheels. Having the cuda hostage on mine hurts for sure taking up space. I am lost on the slope thing is the whole floor sloped or just by the entrance like mine?
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Build a body cart. I built mine for the dart for less than 60 bucks, including the 4, 750 pound each rated casters
 
halifaxhops said:
Would be nice to have wheels. Having the cuda hostage on mine hurts for sure taking up space. I am lost on the slope thing is the whole floor sloped or just by the entrance like mine?
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I would say the whole floor. With no plumbing in the shop I don't understand why the builder decided to do that, maybe so I spilled a large amount of something or wanted to hose it out it would run out I guess. The length of the ramp is about 20 feet. The angle of the slab was said to be 3 degrees on the 30 foot depth of the shop (it's 40 wide). I'm less than 3 degrees total I believe because the spacing of the uprights front to back is 20 feet. Does that make sense?
 
Already did. Its the posts in the way.
DSC06521.JPG
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I agree. Bolt the sucker down, shim it right of course
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The lift came with shims, at least if I go this route I don't need to go buy steel. Another damn it in this whole thing is that there are 2 foot x 2 foot areas of deep concrete where the lift posts go, problem is neither myself or the builder documented it! I know that I went further than the 3 foot minimum on the side for door opening ability, just not sure if it was 3 1/2 or 4 feet. There is no rebar or it would be easy to detect. Seems like some kind of seismic instrument could find them, something like they use to figure out how much dirt to remove for building foundation, dunno.
 
71340Duster said:
The lift came with shims, at least if I go this route I don't need to go buy steel. Another damn it in this whole thing is that there are 2 foot x 2 foot areas of deep concrete where the lift posts go, problem is neither myself or the builder documented it! I know that I went further than the 3 foot minimum on the side for door opening ability, just not sure if it was 3 1/2 or 4 feet. There is no rebar or it would be easy to detect. Seems like some kind of seismic instrument could find them, something like they use to figure out how much dirt to remove for building foundation, dunno.
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I would think with a four post 3" would be fine.
 
71340Duster said:
The lift came with shims, at least if I go this route I don't need to go buy steel. Another damn it in this whole thing is that there are 2 foot x 2 foot areas of deep concrete where the lift posts go, problem is neither myself or the builder documented it! I know that I went further than the 3 foot minimum on the side for door opening ability, just not sure if it was 3 1/2 or 4 feet. There is no rebar or it would be easy to detect. Seems like some kind of seismic instrument could find them, something like they use to figure out how much dirt to remove for building foundation, dunno.
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So the concrete you had poured?
 
71340Duster said:
The lift came with shims, at least if I go this route I don't need to go buy steel. Another damn it in this whole thing is that there are 2 foot x 2 foot areas of deep concrete where the lift posts go, problem is neither myself or the builder documented it! I know that I went further than the 3 foot minimum on the side for door opening ability, just not sure if it was 3 1/2 or 4 feet. There is no rebar or it would be easy to detect. Seems like some kind of seismic instrument could find them, something like they use to figure out how much dirt to remove for building foundation, dunno.
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dukeboy_318 said:
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He mentions a piece of equipment, I should talk to my builder, he's coming out today and see if his foundation people have that and will do a "locate" for me. I sent him a pic of the holes when dug out, he was supposed to put it into a scaling program but he never got back to me, maybe it didn't work. Thanks for the video!
 
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