Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Sublime one said:
Chris you can also use a “bull clamp for those spots you can’t get to the backside. Bull clamp is a modified C clamp with a foot. Pulls the two pieces together and actually becomes a heat sink in process.
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I did that on your advice for the floor pan install. Worked AWESOME!
 
I’m just trying to finish the last little bits of the quarter and rockers and then I’m done!!
 
Sublime one said:
Chris you can also use a “bull clamp for those spots you can’t get to the backside. Bull clamp is a modified C clamp with a foot. Pulls the two pieces together and actually becomes a heat sink in process.
Click to expand...
Bull clamp? I googled it, its not what you describe. Unless you are a cattle farmer…
 
Mattax said:
Of this modified C-clamp
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B948B4AA-6F58-49B0-9483-FC3539900DF8.jpeg
 
half-clamps.jpg

Never made any clamps like this for welding :rolleyes:
Use a chunk of 1/2" plate for the base section that gets welded to the work, on thin material it will soak up a lot of heat.
Just a couple small tack welds and you can exert a lot of pressure and then just break it off after the work is completed.
 
We use them in oil field for welding and fitting tanks. Of course we use a bit heavier material than posted pix. But basically you put clamp on the low side with screw positioned over high side. You tack inside of the foot and as you screw down tack acts as fulcrum and pushes against foot for leverage when two plates line up you weld it. Unscrew threaded portion pop the clamp with a hammer and bust it off. Move down the seam and rinse and repeat.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Bull clamp? I googled it, its not what you describe. Unless you are a cattle farmer…
Click to expand...
Reminds me of the story when my superviser's daughter answered a question in second grade about steer.
They were from and had lived in western Texas, but now she was going to school in a suburban* part of NJ.
Teacher got an answer she wasnt expecting.
eek-gif.gif
There was a phone call home.
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*(Still some horse farms, hay, corn, and orchards but not a lot, and no cattle)
 
Unconventional said:
View attachment 1715781929
Never made any clamps like this for welding :rolleyes:
Use a chunk of 1/2" plate for the base section that gets welded to the work, on thin material it will soak up a lot of heat.
Just a couple small tack welds and you can exert a lot of pressure and then just break it off after the work is completed.
Click to expand...

PS put the tack welds on the base plate closest to the pressure point. Leave the away sides unwelded for easy removal. The down force will keep those off sides in place
 
So im thinking i will drop the diff with the 3.55 gears and go back to 2.24 i originally installed. Pop axles and backing plates, leave brakes hanging and swap diffs. Fuel mileage and lower ripims at highway speed.
 
Scratch that. 800 rpm drop.
1/3 loss in power to the wheels. Dont know if i want that.
 
Tooljunkie said:
So im thinking i will drop the diff with the 3.55 gears and go back to 2.24 i originally installed. Pop axles and backing plates, leave brakes hanging and swap diffs. Fuel mileage and lower ripims at highway speed.
Click to expand...

Holy smokes 2.24?! That is a very tall gear. I ran 2.91 on my road trip. 2500 rpm at 70. That will be some freeway gears for sure.
 
Tooljunkie said:
So im thinking i will drop the diff with the 3.55 gears and go back to 2.24 i originally installed. Pop axles and backing plates, leave brakes hanging and swap diffs. Fuel mileage and lower ripims at highway speed.
Click to expand...
3.23?
 
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