Stop in for a cup of coffee

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So,Buddy’s chinee tractor, has been here all summer. 28 hp 4wd with a loader. Been kind of handy but needed some work.
Pto speed lever was inop. We started pulling covers to try and figure it out. Spilled about 3 gallons of oil and got nowhere.
I found a parts diagram, and saw a spring on shift shaft. Decided to see if i could pry it out and re-engage tang into collar. It worked. Took 30 seconds. I should have sat down at computer and looked first.
 
burger.jpg
 
I’ll give that a shot!!
First, try to avoid welding on the rusted sections. :poke:
I think thats what Franks was explaining. Try setting and running it as Frank suggested on some good metal.
Come back and fill for when there are holes.
 
First, try to avoid welding on the rusted sections. :poke:
I think thats what Franks was explaining. Try setting and running it as Frank suggested on some good metal.
Come back and fill for when there are holes.
Metal is clean but there are places where things get thin due to rust.
 
Been there. it does make it tougher
Brand new metal, it welds perfect. Like I’d put those welds up for a cert test. It’s the old metal on the thing that’s a challenge. I try to clean both sides but some areas I just can’t get too. Another example of why I wish I’d just ponied up and chem dipped this sob.
 
Brand new metal, it welds perfect. Like I’d put those welds up for a cert test. It’s the old metal on the thing that’s a challenge. I try to clean both sides but some areas I just can’t get too. Another example of why I wish I’d just ponied up and chem dipped this sob.
Chem dip would make it a challenge anyway. And likely find you a lot more work. Also, and this is huge,find a copper block. Use it for backing. Anywhere its thin. Thank me later.
 
Chem dip would make it a challenge anyway. And likely find you a lot more work. Also, and this is huge,find a copper block. Use it for backing. Anywhere its thin. Thank me later.
I cannot stress enough read the part above about the copper plate for backing. I use some old salvaged bus bar. Note to self, it stays hot for a long time! Hah! Ask me how I know!
 
Sometimes I use silicone bronze wire for Tig if the metal is super crappy and thin.
I've brazed with moderate success when its thin (Oxy-Acet)
I've always assumed the copper block will not help with a torch. That it would just get burned and/or contaminate. True?
 
I've brazed with moderate success when its thin (Oxy-Acet)
I've always assumed the copper block will not help with a torch. That it would just get burned and/or contaminate. True?
Steel wont stick to the copper block. I have to buff it from time to time.
 
I've brazed with moderate success when its thin (Oxy-Acet)
I've always assumed the copper block will not help with a torch. That it would just get burned and/or contaminate. True?
If I am brazing with a torch a lot of times I use the heat sink paste vs the copper backing plate. Honestly I have found I can Tig thin stuff with less heat distortion than I can with oxy torch.
 
Chem dip would make it a challenge anyway. And likely find you a lot more work. Also, and this is huge,find a copper block. Use it for backing. Anywhere its thin. Thank me later.
I’ve been using a sheet of scrap copper and a pair of vice grips to hold it where I can. It’s the areas I can’t get behind that’s I’m struggling with
 
Try it Frank it has a much broader application range for alloys. Basically if it is metal it will stick! Hah! Works great on anything contaminated. “It will buff out”
When youre talking Si-Bronze your joining it like a weld right? As opposed to capilary action like soldering (which IIRC) is true brazing?
 
SI bronze is typically at any welding supply house most carry it in both 1/16 and 1/8 I typically just use the 1/16. Use it exactly as you would regular tig rod. It’s melting point is super low..
And they sell this for mig?
 
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