Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Mattax said:
Actually you'll find the factory was pretty consistant once you understand what they did
Click to expand...

Thank you :thumbsup:

I'm used to schematics... hard part is figuring out what everyone else did to it in the interim.

Several splices and color changes on some runs. It'll shake out.
 
Morning!
53 and sunny. Dump run today then back onto a stack of metal siding i need to reduce to manageable pieces. Sheets are 28 feet long. 2 10’s and an 8 are best in my opinion. I found a shear on buy and sell, and will sell it when im done. Takes 2 seconds to cut a sheet.
I bought roughly 20,000 square feet, i bid on it as a donation for our local hockey arena. Think i sold off 3/4 of it. Made decent money too.
 
WV64Signet said:
Thank you :thumbsup:

I'm used to schematics... hard part is figuring out what everyone else did to it in the interim.

Several splices and color changes on some runs. It'll shake out.
Click to expand...
I hear ya.

Looking at the early (1960-62) diagrams helps explain some of the wire color and junction loations that developed later on.
Typically for late 60s the codes and colors were
A is Battery output and recharge. Black or Red but always red at the ammeter so the meter reads in the correct direction.
R is Alternator circuits. R6 is alternator output. Black
J is Ignition and engine.
J1 is often power to ignition switch. Usually red, some early years black.
J2 is ignition (includes power to voltage regulator). Dark Blue or blue w/ trace
J3 is ignition feed when key is in start. Brown
Q is Accessory feeds
Q2 is switched accessory feed - (pretty much everything which requires key on other than ignition). Black
L is typically exterior Lighting.
H is usually Horn. Violet power feed to relay.
G is gage

Orange is usually instrument, radio, console lights
Pink is often feeds from the fuse box to brake light switch etc.
 
It seems there were few if any welded junctions in 1960
upload_2022-3-17_10-56-39-png.png


I think by 1962 that had changed considerably
upload_2022-3-14_13-5-54-png.png
 
Mattax said:
I hear ya.

Looking at the early (1960-62) diagrams helps explain some of the wire color and junction loations that developed later on.
Typically for late 60s the codes and colors were
A is Battery output and recharge. Black or Red but always red at the ammeter so the meter reads in the correct direction.
R is Alternator circuits. R6 is alternator output. Black
J is Ignition and engine.
J1 is often power to ignition switch. Usually red, some early years black.
J2 is ignition (includes power to voltage regulator). Dark Blue or blue w/ trace
J3 is ignition feed when key is in start. Brown
Q is Accessory feeds
Q2 is switched accessory feed - (pretty much everything which requires key on other than ignition). Black
L is typically exterior Lighting.
H is usually Horn. Violet power feed to relay.
G is gage

Orange is usually instrument, radio, console lights
Pink is often feeds from the fuse box to brake light switch etc.
Click to expand...

Ahhh... the Alphas help explain. I "colorized" my TSM.

20220821_081928.jpg
 
WV64Signet said:
Much more simple.

I'm going to see if it's possible to capture an overlay of the electronic ignition into this car
Click to expand...
So much simpler without all the auxliery circuits for do-dads like turn signals that got added later on.
I'm working on a plan to eliminate the headlight loads completely by
incorporating one of these carbide searchlights to the front.
s-l500.jpg

s-l1600.jpg
 
WV64Signet said:
I'm going to see if it's possible to capture an overlay of the electronic ignition into this car
Click to expand...
I forgot your car had that added.
There seems to be a variety of color coding for the pigtails on on those.
Go by the pin location on the pentagon.
Top is power to run the ECU.
Left is connection to the coil negative that opens and closes.
The other two connect to the magnetic pickup/
upload_2022-8-21_8-56-20.png
 
WV64Signet said:
:rofl:

We can do without that


Although I've smoked more than my fair share of vehicles, radios, generators and once the entire electrical grid for a medium sized, Eastern European Town
Click to expand...
Then you need to get the COSTCO sized one for the town!
 
I actually have the younger guy coming over in a few to learn distributors. Good day for it I just got one in the mail to rebuild.
 
Annual cruise in locally. Anything and everything on wheels. Takes about 1.5 hours to move a city block though. Classics were out but not as many as past year plus wife made me do all the driving so I didn’t get but a couple quick snap shots.

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56C117C5-749D-4327-9685-C3E561CC4EE0.jpeg
 
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