Stop in for a cup of coffee

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The best bang for the buck no matter what ignition you run is to get the curve to match the engine, seriously like adding a 50 shot of nitrous.
Too many read or hear all they have to do is buy the latest, greatest, super modern, updated, new and improved, slick, scaley snake oil and replace that old, outdated, junk. No tuning or thinking involved. Just plug and play.
Makes the car better, greater, and the engine real poweful.
Yep.
 
No idea why. Only need that dual one. Kind of interesting no ide why. Matt can you cut and paste the dual ballast wiring for me I cant for some reason.
 
No idea why. Only need that dual one. Kind of interesting no ide why. Matt can you cut and paste the dual ballast wiring for mr I cant for some reason.
Sure. Lemme find one.

I could paste pics the other day and figurefd out it was because I had changed editor modes.
The button with the black arrow pointing to it.
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Too many read or hear all they have to do is buy the latest, greatest, super modern, updated, new and improved, slick, scaley snake oil and replace that old, outdated, junk. No tuning or thinking involved. Just plug and play.
Makes the car better, greater, and the engine real poweful.
Yep.
Preaching here. Just did a mech only electric for a guy. They had a MSD on it for the break in did say 450 HP Put mine on got 501! I want him to post the dyno info to save some people big money. That was with a stock black ECU also. 440-4
 
Preaching here. Just did a mech only electric for a guy. They had a MSD on it for the break in did say 450 HP Put mine on got 501! I want him to post the dyno info to save some people big money. That was with a stock black ECU also. 440-4
Nice! Simple Hot Rodding and no smoke and mirrors!
 
Wow never saw that diagram before. That single ballast is .5-.6 ohm. looks like it is for .25 ohm on run circuit? No idea why really. Street?
 
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Wow never saw that diagram before. That single ballast is .5-.6 ohm. looks like it is for 1 ohm on start circuit. No idea why really. Street?
It's in the MP/DC Engine Book. I htought you got a copy, or the typed bulletin?
I'll have to go downstairs to get the camara if you want pictures of more related to that ECU
 
Looking at it again it seems the start and run wires are jumped and 1 ohm constant for the coil. Higher amperage, I guess? Those boxes do like 4 amps.
 
Keefer I wish, just a chrome ecu is easy 200 now used 100-125. Hell the black ones oem are 100 all day long.
 
Will do.
Good excuse to get off my butt and start the day.
LOL. Been awake awhile, but dosed off after the pup climbed in bed. Finally up with coffee. Gonna go pick up a door I found on Marketplace for basement bathroom. Old one wrecked from water damage and kids locking each other in. Door is over in Thomasville - conveniently 5 minuts from Morning Sun Market. :thumbsup:
 
I have seen a few old orange ones cheap on tempest but they wont ship them. Cheap is 75 and the ride. Still a crap shoot if they are good. Bought a gold one a year ago paid 150 and it failed. What can you do no guarantees on this NOS stuff. I dont even want to tell you how bad those e advances are and they are 50/50 if good.
 
Checked out Chrysler Power with article that includes Eric's car, what an honor! There's also some background on Norm, this newbie here didn't know much about him other than hearing his name.

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I am done on points/cond for now. Holy crap I have hundreds I forgot about. Only thing i really buy are RB dual point distributors and ecu's. Always a list of guys looking for that number. I have paid 800 for a real hemi core that needed another few hundred i parts and the rebuild charge. Came out around 1500 and I have 5 people looking for them. Thats cheap.
 
I still want to test your old one cold and see if it fails, bet it will. That was strange but right on the edge of freezing. The aircraft always had gremlins at that point hot/cold in the spring and fall. Constant temp no issues once you figured out what was failing.
 
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