Stop in for a cup of coffee

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memike said:
How old is this engine? 273 ? I forget, is it loose ? Can you move it ?
Ever use a wire to pull old freeze plugs out of a freeze plug the rusted ot got broken? I would try my best to get it out, back in the 70's everyone messed with there engines, or could this be from birth of the engine.. hmmm, ..weird
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Seems at some point, someone dropped the old water temperature sender??
 

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So the online chat at Summit says....sorry, Hoosier doesn't warranty race tires. BS! This is a defect in the tire. One of them better or I will have to join every social media place I hate to discuss this. What if someone raced with it and it blew up? Just say sorry? BS!
 
Ddaddy said:
The final four digits, for any tire made since the year 2000, are the tire date code and represent the date of manufacture. The first two of these digits designates the week of the year the tires were made, and the final two digits are the last two digits of the year of manufacture. (For example, 1319 means the thirteenth week of 2019.)

In the case of the defective one, the last four digits are 4221 which is the 42nd week of 2021.

The tire isn’t past the expiration date of 6 years and is therefore a factory defect.

Hi guys, just happened to be passing by and saw this. Hope everyone is well!
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Hope you are well good Sir! Not much has Changed on the longest thread ever about nothin! Some new additions since you have been on, but their morals and character is suspect so they fit right in with the rest of us! Hope your biz is still rocking it!
 
MOPARMITCH said:
I've rebuilt both models. Easy peasy
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Great!
If you recall I need to rebuild the one in my Barracuda. Its needs to be set up closer to stock and with new late version sidegears.

Mopar Tim said:
And the Fee is just that. You own NOTHING!!! Cannot be sold by you, just flushed money!!
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But like you posted, some of the price is the privlege of living in La Jolla.
Probably cheaper if it was someplace less pricey - like out by Edwards AFB and Willow Springs

Maxcustody said:
Got the additive and 85 140 on the way. Got Lucas HD high performance gear oil
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That doesn't sound right except maybe for trailer towing.
Lemme see what I figured out was the closest to spec these days (for an 8.75 with Dana clutch Suregrip)
 
Maxcustody said:
Got the additive and 85 140 on the way. Got Lucas HD high performance gear oil
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This what I ended up with for the 8.75 with Dana
Gear Oil, Synthetic Mobile 1 LS 75W-90 1 qt 22 oz.
Limited slip Clutch additive ATP AT-210 4oz.

Long story short. No reason to go heavier unless generating lots of heat.
A little less on the cold rating will help in colder weather.
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I don't think your in danger of breaking the axles, but the former head mechanic at Pheonix had a story about doing that at his first job. Apparently got to be real gentle getting things moving with an early Powerwagon's drivetrain in super cold weather and old time lubes.
 
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WV64Signet said:
Ahhh... could be.. I'll have to find the part and see what they looked like.
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here's one
www.forabodiesonly.com

[SOLD] - NOS Mopar block heater

I have this NOS block heater, tested works was going to use it but no time. Asking $65 shipped lower 48.
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com

Probably weren't too many versions??

We just left the cord on all the time. Didn't use it much. My folks got it installed for ski trips.
 
Mattax said:
This what I ended up with for the 8.75 with Dana
Gear Oil, Synthetic Mobile 1 LS 75W-90 1 qt 22 oz.
Limited slip Clutch additive ATP AT-210 4oz.

Long story short. No reason to go heavier unless generating lots of heat.
A little less on the cold rating will help in colder weather.
View attachment 1716098317
I don't think your in danger of breaking the axles, but the former head mechanic at Pheonix had a story about doing that at his first job. Apparently got to be real gentle getting things moving with an early Powerwagon's drivetrain in super cold weather and old time lubes.
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Some of them OLD military powerwagons used literal axle grease as lube
 
From the photo, doesent look like a block heater. Tungsten covered in ceramic then copper over that. They usually are u-shaped and come out quite easy. And terminals on each end.
 
Now i need to figure out how to cut 5 acres of grass without sitting on a tractor or riding mower for 2 days.

Looks like Firebird may get shipped out soon. Owner found a bodyman/painter willing to take it over. Then im on the hook to re-assemble.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Now i need to figure out how to cut 5 acres of grass without sitting on a tractor or riding mower for 2 days.

Looks like Firebird may get shipped out soon. Owner found a bodyman/painter willing to take it over. Then im on the hook to re-assemble.
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1-800-MOW-GRASS
 
OK..

Wrapped up for the day... sipping a beverage and contemplating next steps.

Finally got the block stripped down cleaned and flushed out. Yikes what a bunch of crud that came out of there. And then the mystery wire thingy.

Everything is tucked away pending assessment of the block

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Mattax said:
This what I ended up with for the 8.75 with Dana
Gear Oil, Synthetic Mobile 1 LS 75W-90 1 qt 22 oz.
Limited slip Clutch additive ATP AT-210 4oz.

Long story short. No reason to go heavier unless generating lots of heat.
A little less on the cold rating will help in colder weather.
View attachment 1716098317
I don't think your in danger of breaking the axles, but the former head mechanic at Pheonix had a story about doing that at his first job. Apparently got to be real gentle getting things moving with an early Powerwagon's drivetrain in super cold weather and old time lubes.
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Thanks. Reading about gear oils is like engine oil, tons of different opinions and options. I ended up going with 75 140 synthetic.
 
I am sure it is overkill but why not. The majority of driving will be in the summer, so heat should not be a problem and when I am running it on the track
 
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