dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
i knew Tim had a pair. Fresh out of car money till next month
I saw the one pair Tim, whats the other pair you have?
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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I saw the one pair Tim, whats the other pair you have?
I never really looked in a glasspack. And im too old to run them. I preferred the turbo400’s.
Vizard flow tested a bunch of mufflers back in the 70s - published the results a few places including Performance with Economy.
Glasspacks generally flow much better going with the louvers than into them.
Glasspacks generally flow much better going with the louvers than into them.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
the chrome DC ones are highly tempting
Not for me either. Was using the turbo style mufflers until this last set for the Barracuda. This time it got Magnaflow which are sortof a glasspack but a regular oval case and decent sound control. But everyone has their preferences.
Waiting for my next appt.
did some bookkeeping, ordered parts, trimmed a little grass around shop.
Guess i will have to drive around and cut off the clumps of clover, its 1’tall,but grass hasnt grown in a month.
did some bookkeeping, ordered parts, trimmed a little grass around shop.
Guess i will have to drive around and cut off the clumps of clover, its 1’tall,but grass hasnt grown in a month.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Purple Hornies are going on the dart and the polara both!
Chris - what you need to do is get a sheet of plywood, some good open barrel crimpers, and more than enough terminals, and connectors only as needed for the wires.
Lay out the original on one side of the board, and the generic one on the other. Then make the generic one look like the original. It can be a family project, like a jigsaw puzzle.
There's some good posts in the electrical forum about how to do this, how to make the crimps, etc.
Hardest part for you will be if there is a need for some insulation color that's not common. If there's no marine supply stores near you, you may have to order from a specialty company to avoid bying 250' spool.
Lay out the original on one side of the board, and the generic one on the other. Then make the generic one look like the original. It can be a family project, like a jigsaw puzzle.
There's some good posts in the electrical forum about how to do this, how to make the crimps, etc.
Hardest part for you will be if there is a need for some insulation color that's not common. If there's no marine supply stores near you, you may have to order from a specialty company to avoid bying 250' spool.
That's because they are a straight through tube.
Unfortunately, this is all too common and perpetuates at FABO at least as much as anywhere.
I've come to appreciate the factory design was somewhat clever even though there are some details that probably could have been done better in some cases.
These are sexy @dukeboy_318 ! [FOR SALE] - Factory chrome poly valve covers
No no!
Buy these instead
Double and Single Crimper -
Everyone will be happier when the car is running
A couple all doors from the Woodward Cruise.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
ive a got a good set of Knipex crimpers i bought off the snap on truck years ago. I just hate wiring lolNo no!
Buy these instead
View attachment 1715214312
Double and Single Crimper -
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
love the 64 330
All is good on the left coast, I got my renewal offer as well, I am going to renew, even if I end up not going....Can donate it to someone else..
The power thru the bulkhead is their major screw up. To power the Amp gauge....IMO.
Agreed!
Are they for open barrel connectors?
I bought an Astro multi-jaw which was good for most, but not all open barrel connectors. I'm done with kindof correct and wasting time on the job. Broke down and bought these for the next job.
What do you hate about wiring? I didn't use to like it - actually avoided it. But the more I've done the less hassle its been. Having good tools makes a big difference. Having a clear model is a big help. I've redrawn lots of wiring diagrams so I have something I can follow in the shop. Learning how the electricity flows has been a big help too. I think as you go up the learning curve you'll like it more. Plus, its one of the things you can do with the kid s and wife if you approach it right.
With the engine out I unplugged the bulkhead connectors and cleaned and greased the terminals. No issues with the original harness in 16 years.
O, and the 5 volt IVR is a mess as well.....they should have designed 12V gauges instead of using the old 6V technology...
Ya, They run full battery through the amp meter but reduced voltage through the rest of the gauges.
Yep....Ya, They run full battery through the amp meter but reduced voltage through the rest of the gauges.
I'll disagree with you guys on that.
The mistake was on some models labelling the ammeter "Alternator"
That confuses a lot of people.
The ammeter doesn't provide any info about the Alternator - Sure had me confused for years. Rather it shows the current to or from the battery.
Having a better connection through firewall from the alternator to the main splice was done on some models and years. From an assembly and service point of view, using a connector at the firewall makes sense. A heavier gage or better connector, yea. OK. I agree that would be better. And they did that for some fleet vehicles. But it would have been overkill for most.
One clever part about the design is it means only one fusible link is needed. This means the power goes from the alternator to everything without any drops in wire size of the main trunk.
Where the design begins to be an issue is when the electric system has to power equipment that draws more than the alternator can handle. It also fails when accessories are added to battery instead of the alternator - but that's not a fault of the design.
? That's how an ammeter works.Ya, They run full battery through the amp meter but reduced voltage through the rest of the gauges.
The only other option is to externally shunt it. Which was done on some vehicles ...
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